Would my bun be better off in another home??

[lauren8165]

I got my bun about 3 months ago and he is now 4 month old. Since getting him, there has been zero improvement with him not being deathly scared of EVERYTHING. I'd even say it gets worse and worse over time. When anyone even goes near him, he automatically starts to panic and will get himself so scared that he will just plop down and breath so fast that his body is shaking. He has even screamed on 2 occasions just from me bending down to pick him up (which I've only done a handful of times only when necessary) and that had me so upset that I was sick to my stomach and I cried all night [emoji24]. It's seriously so difficult to see him be so scared and not be able to help him or make him understand that I won't hurt him. I have tried SO hard to bond w him, bc I love him so much and I have tried EVERYTHING to win him over, but it just keeps getting worse. My dining room was turned into his room and he basically stays in there 99% of the time..by himself. I considered getting another bun, but he is such an aggressive bunny that I worry they would fight all the time. So my question is: what should I do? Are there cases where a bun isn't a good fit and needs to be in a different home? I would be devastated to let him go, but if his quality of life would be better, I'd do what was best for him. I can only imagine how lonely and unfulfilling his life has to be the way it is now and I just want him to be happy. Any ideas?

 

[JBun]

Things I would try first are if you are home a lot, I would actually bring him into the same room that I spent most of my time in. I would provide a hidey hole for him if he was terrified. If he wasn't and would still eat and drink ok then I wouldn't provide hiding places so he can't just hide out from you. You also would need to keep a close eye to make sure he eats and drinks well and poop stays normal. Point of this is to desensitize him to the things he is finding scary and to get him used to you and essentially bond with you. Rabbits can only do this with repeated contact, some rabbits need more contact and time than others.

The other possibility is getting him a friend(he's neutered right?). Just because he seems aggressive doesn't necessarily mean he would be aggressive to another rabbit if you find the right match for him. He actually may need the emotional support of a calmer more confident rabbit. Key is finding the right companion, because yes, some rabbits don't get along and he could be aggressive with the wrong rabbit.

Something else to consider is if he has any hearing or sight issues that could be causing his nervous behavior.

 

[lauren8165]

He was in my room with me, but that didn't work out bc he kept going under my bed and wouldn't come out and it was so hard to get him out. He was also peeing everywhere. Especially under my bed. He had 2 litter boxes. I know he doesn't have any seeing or hearing issues, bc he can spot and hear my dogs when they come near his room and he is very receptive to alot of different sounds he hears. He's not neutered yet. I was waiting until he was 4 months pld and he just turned 4 months 2 days ago. I need to book his appointment. I was told he wouldn't bond with me as much if I bonded him with another rabbit, so thats why I've been hesitant, but if he won't bond with me, he needs to have someone to socialize with. I worry that he's this way because it's just his temperament. Which is ok, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little disappointed, bc I love him so much and I wish he would just let me love on him. Lol.

I guess what I will do is neuter first and see. Then if there's no improvement after a while, I will look into bonding him.

 

[Blue eyes]

Please don't make any assumptions about his personality yet. He's young and hormonal. He may be completely different once he's neutered. I always encourage people to get an already fixed rabbit -- most especially for their first rabbit. Baby rabbits can just be a pain, unpredictable, hormonal, and any behavior or 'personality' they display may change once they become adults.

Once he's neutered, still give him several weeks for those hormones to fully dissipate. It won't be until then that he'll start to give you a hint of what his true personality will be. Anything is possible.

When it comes time to start bonding with him more seriously, you'll need to find a way to have him in whatever area you spend the most time. Even sitting nearby his cage is still being near him and allows him to get used to you -- even if you aren't directly interacting with him. You can use an x-pen to surround his cage when it is time for exercise. You can sit quietly in the area with him. Let him initiate contact when he feels ready. You will need plenty of patience.

If running loose in your room is a problem, that was only because the problem areas weren't blocked off. If going under the bed is an issue, then that space needs to be blocked off. I don't know of any rabbit that wouldn't find that area enticing.

As for the peeing, that's because he hasn't been fixed and potty trained. He shouldn't run loose until potty trained (unless in an area with a wipe-able or washable floor).

He is going to need to be where people are in order to get used to normal daily life with you.
He also may need extra patience during this time. Consider the time that begins several weeks after the neuter to be a "do-over" with getting to know each other. When that clock starts, it may take awhile for him to come out of his shell. Some rabbits acclimate in days, others in weeks, and a few rare ones may take months. Prepare yourself for the long haul and give him a chance.

That said, he may do well with a bondmate as well. I have not found that bonded pairs were any less interactive with their human than single rabbits. Having a bondmate can actually help a shy bun gain confidence from a more confident bondmate.

 

[JBun]

Instead of letting him free roam your room, have you tried keeping him in a cage? It's not ideal I know, but sometimes it adds a sense of security to rabbits to have a smaller area that they know is just theirs. All the extra space of free roaming might be adding to his insecurity, especially being such a young bunny, and it might just not be the right step for your particular rabbit quite yet. He might just need to start off with cage for now, that is a defined smaller safe space that he knows is his. I would try keeping him in a cage in the room with me and see how he responds to that. Even to the point of bringing his cage with me into what ever room I'm going to be in most of the time(if that is possible to do).

If he seems uncomfortable or nervous being in the same room, maybe start off with his cage further away from you to start(but in the same room), then gradually moving it closer to you as he seems to settle down and become more relaxed. I think he's just had too much space too soon for him, and free roaming is something you will need to leave for a later time once he's developed a sense of security in his new home, and once he's developed a bond with you. Remember, he's really still just a baby and learning things.

 

[Kita channel]

I agree with the other reply and neutering will help calm down your rabbits hormones and make them alot happier and also many other benefits such as living longer.

One other thing I highly reccomend is limiting the access the dogs have to your rabbits surroundings. Other animals can severely stress your rabbit out eapecially if they are loud and larger than your bun. Rabbits are prey animals and are commonly afraid of dogs and other animals. Even the smell or sight of them can stress your bun out. Maybe try to have a room that your rabbit is alone away from the dogs which the dogs have limited or no access. hope this helps and look forward to ur feedback!

 

[Kita channel]

Also another thing I might add, I have 6 rabbits and one time i was holding my mouse near my male rabbit who is very calm, tame and friendly and he freaked out! If he is scared of a little mouse, imagine how scared he would be of a dog. I always keep them in seperate rooms to prevent any stress to both animals.

 

[lauren8165]

Please don't make any assumptions about his personality yet. He's young and hormonal. He may be completely different once he's neutered. I always encourage people to get an already fixed rabbit -- most especially for their first rabbit. Baby rabbits can just be a pain, unpredictable, hormonal, and any behavior or 'personality' they display may change once they become adults.

Once he's neutered, still give him several weeks for those hormones to fully dissipate. It won't be until then that he'll start to give you a hint of what his true personality will be. Anything is possible.

When it comes time to start bonding with him more seriously, you'll need to find a way to have him in whatever area you spend the most time. Even sitting nearby his cage is still being near him and allows him to get used to you -- even if you aren't directly interacting with him. You can use an x-pen to surround his cage when it is time for exercise. You can sit quietly in the area with him. Let him initiate contact when he feels ready. You will need plenty of patience.

If running loose in your room is a problem, that was only because the problem areas weren't blocked off. If going under the bed is an issue, then that space needs to be blocked off. I don't know of any rabbit that wouldn't find that area enticing.

As for the peeing, that's because he hasn't been fixed and potty trained. He shouldn't run loose until potty trained (unless in an area with a wipe-able or washable floor).

He is going to need to be where people are in order to get used to normal daily life with you.
He also may need extra patience during this time. Consider the time that begins several weeks after the neuter to be a "do-over" with getting to know each other. When that clock starts, it may take awhile for him to come out of his shell. Some rabbits acclimate in days, others in weeks, and a few rare ones may take months. Prepare yourself for the long haul and give him a chance.

That said, he may do well with a bondmate as well. I have not found that bonded pairs were any less interactive with their human than single rabbits. Having a bondmate can actually help a shy bun gain confidence from a more confident bondmate.

I have blocked off my bed with chicken wire (super ugly i know lol) and he found a way to get through it. He's very clever. This is my first young bun to have. My other rabbit was an adult when I got him, so I wasn't aware what a difference hormones can make.

His room (my dining room) is between the kitchen and living room. He can see and be around us all the time, but be far enough away that we aren't in his space. Is that a good setup or should I bring him in closer and move him back in my room?

 

[lauren8165]

Instead of letting him free roam your room, have you tried keeping him in a cage? It's not ideal I know, but sometimes it adds a sense of security to rabbits to have a smaller area that they know is just theirs. All the extra space of free roaming might be adding to his insecurity, especially being such a young bunny, and it might just not be the right step for your particular rabbit quite yet. He might just need to start off with cage for now, that is a defined smaller safe space that he knows is his. I would try keeping him in a cage in the room with me and see how he responds to that. Even to the point of bringing his cage with me into what ever room I'm going to be in most of the time(if that is possible to do).

If he seems uncomfortable or nervous being in the same room, maybe start off with his cage further away from you to start(but in the same room), then gradually moving it closer to you as he seems to settle down and become more relaxed. I think he's just had too much space too soon for him, and free roaming is something you will need to leave for a later time once he's developed a sense of security in his new home, and once he's developed a bond with you. Remember, he's really still just a baby and learning things.

I will move him as soon as I get home from work. I will section off a small side of my room and make it his own space. I just worry about my carpet, bc he pees ALOT all over the place. He goes in his litter box too, but that doesn't stop him from peeing just as much on the carpet. I need to get him neutered asap. 4 months isn't too young is it?

 

[lauren8165]

Also another thing I might add, I have 6 rabbits and one time i was holding my mouse near my male rabbit who is very calm, tame and friendly and he freaked out! If he is scared of a little mouse, imagine how scared he would be of a dog. I always keep them in seperate rooms to prevent any stress to both animals.

It seems the general consensus is to move him. He is in the middle of everything. It's blocked off with a gate, so no one can get back there, but he's basically is the same room of the living room and kitchen, as they are all right next to one another with no walls sealing them off. It may be too much for him.

Everyone is saying keep him near me, but away from the chaos, so I will bring him back into my room and give him his own space in there. When he was in my room before, he had run of the whole room basically. I will seal off a side with a gate and make it his own. The dogs aren't allowed in my room, so it will be just his space.

 

[Blue eyes]

To protect your carpet, you could put down a heavy duty tarp and top it with a cheap fleece blanket or similar. That will keep the urine from getting in your carpet. It is very difficult to fully get out that urine odor to the point where bunny does not smell it. They tend to like to go where they smell it -- that means back on the carpet if it's already been peed upon.

 

[Orrin]

Your bun's behavior sounds exactly like that of an injured wild cottontail kit we rescued, rehabilitated and released. My heart bleeds when I hear your story. The situation isn't easy for either you or your bun.

What I'm about to say is not expert opinion; but, what I would do based on my experience.

1) First off, I would put the bun in a cage. It doesn't need to be expensive. Google NIC cage and you'll get some ideas.

2) Put a "house," in the cage where your bun can feel safe. It can be a cardboard carton with a hole or holes for entrances. Sometimes, they feel more secure with two holes; they think they have an escape route, that way. Of course, you'll need a litter box. Put it into the corner where it likes to pee.

3) If your bun doesn't like to be picked up, don't even try. The scream your bun made is a scream of terror. It's an instinctive thing. It thought it was being caught by a predator.

4) Let your bun approach you on its own terms, not yours. Coax it and give it treats through the side of the cage, not from above! (Hawk swooping down.) You will need to be patient. At first, I had to "bribe" Bun-Bun to eat treats by sticking a tiny slice of banana (no thicker than a soda cracker) onto the end of a shish-ka-bob stick. (Leave the peel on, they love peels.) It would come no closer. Gradually, shorten up the stick. Eventually, you'll be able to use a toothpick. As you build trust it will eventually eat from your fingers... through the side of the cage. I would use shredded carrot sticks the size of a match sticks. (Not all grocery stores handle them.) Each step of the way will feel like an accomplishment, a triumph worth celebrating.

5) Limit the treats. The main diet must be hay and pellets.

6) Believe me. Even though the bunny isn't huggy and cuddly by this stage, you'll eventually build a bond. My bun would come running to the side of the cage to greet me because it knew what came next. If I didn't give it the carrot sticks fast enough, it would scratch the cage frantically as to say, "C'mon, c'mon. Hurry! Hurry!" It was cute. He was sweet. We built a wonderful bond this way, the bunny's way, not mine.

7) If this is as far as you can get, in a couple month's time, don't fret. Believe me, I loved my Bun-Bun with all my heart. Releasing him back to the wild was the hardest thing I've ever done. Have you ever seen an old man cry?

Get your bun neutered. When the time comes.

Be patient. I've heard stories of it taking three and four years before a rabbit accepted human interaction.

 

[lauren8165]

To protect your carpet, you could put down a heavy duty tarp and top it with a cheap fleece blanket or similar. That will keep the urine from getting in your carpet. It is very difficult to fully get out that urine odor to the point where bunny does not smell it. They tend to like to go where they smell it -- that means back on the carpet if it's already been peed upon.

Ooh the tarp is a good idea! Bunny pee is the worst pee I've ever smelt. And it seems impossible to get the smell out. I go over and over it with my shampooer with some really good cleaning solution used to break down the enzymes in the urine, but apparently it doesn't work well to deter them if all the urine is not completely soaked up, which is hard to do. But the tarp is a wonderful idea. I love this forum so much. I get so so much from you guys. [emoji4]

 

[lauren8165]

Your bun's behavior sounds exactly like that of an injured wild cottontail kit we rescued, rehabilitated and released. My heart bleeds when I hear your story. The situation isn't easy for either you or your bun.

What I'm about to say is not expert opinion; but, what I would do based on my experience.

1) First off, I would put the bun in a cage. It doesn't need to be expensive. Google NIC cage and you'll get some ideas.

2) Put a "house," in the cage where your bun can feel safe. It can be a cardboard carton with a hole or holes for entrances. Sometimes, they feel more secure with two holes; they think they have an escape route, that way. Of course, you'll need a litter box. Put it into the corner where it likes to pee.

3) If your bun doesn't like to be picked up, don't even try. The scream your bun made is a scream of terror. It's an instinctive thing. It thought it was being caught by a predator.

4) Let your bun approach you on its own terms, not yours. Coax it and give it treats through the side of the cage, not from above! (Hawk swooping down.) You will need to be patient. At first, I had to "bribe" Bun-Bun to eat treats by sticking a tiny slice of banana (no thicker than a soda cracker) onto the end of a shish-ka-bob stick. (Leave the peel on, they love peels.) It would come no closer. Gradually, shorten up the stick. Eventually, you'll be able to use a toothpick. As you build trust it will eventually eat from your fingers... through the side of the cage. I would use shredded carrot sticks the size of a match sticks. (Not all grocery stores handle them.) Each step of the way will feel like an accomplishment, a triumph worth celebrating.

5) Limit the treats. The main diet must be hay and pellets.

6) Believe me. Even though the bunny isn't huggy and cuddly by this stage, you'll eventually build a bond. My bun would come running to the side of the cage to greet me because it knew what came next. If I didn't give it the carrot sticks fast enough, it would scratch the cage frantically as to say, "C'mon, c'mon. Hurry! Hurry!" It was cute. He was sweet. We built a wonderful bond this way, the bunny's way, not mine.

7) If this is as far as you can get, in a couple month's time, don't fret. Believe me, I loved my Bun-Bun with all my heart. Releasing him back to the wild was the hardest thing I've ever done. Have you ever seen an old man cry?

Get your bun neutered. When the time comes.

Be patient. I've heard stories of it taking three and four years before a rabbit accepted human interaction.

I actually have the carrot shreds you are talking about. I buy them at the grocery store. I sprinkle some on top of his dinner every night. He gets pellets in the morning, a plate of veggies at night and unlimited hay. I usually give him one treat a day. Some days 2. They are oxbow hay and dill treats and he goes crazy for them.

I get the craziest amount of mixed signals from this bun. One visit in his room, he will approach me and lick my face (although I think he is licking me not our, because he is scared and is either letting me know he knows I'm dominant or as in a "look I'm sweet. Please don't hurt me" way, bc he it's breathing so heavily)

 

[lauren8165]

I actually have the carrot shreds you are talking about. I buy them at the grocery store. I sprinkle some on top of his dinner every night. He gets pellets in the morning, a plate of veggies at night and unlimited hay. I usually give him one treat a day. Some days 2. They are oxbow hay and dill treats and he goes crazy for them.

I get the craziest amount of mixed signals from this bun. One visit in his room, he will approach me and lick my face (although I think he is licking me not our, because he is scared and is either letting me know he knows I'm dominant or as in a "look I'm sweet. Please don't hurt me" way, bc he it's breathing so heavily)

*I accidentally sent my reply before finishing*

One minute he allows my affections and the next he is darting and running when I even approach the gate to his room.

I think his hormones have alot to do with it. I am in the process of moving him back into my room. I plan on sectioning off part of my room and getting putting his cage there as well as a little bit of roaming room. As least for now that's where he will be. When he gaines more confidence, I will see about letting him go back to the big dining room as his area and free roaming again. He is scheduled to be neutered in 2 weeks.

 

[Orrin]

Here's another consideration. Bunnies have big ears for a reason. Noise puts them on alert. Loud music, loud speech, loud anything is not good.

Something I didn't mention, before, was that I always called my wild Bun-Bun by name when giving him treats. Always. Every time. It didn't take long and he'd recognize his name and come when I called.

The carrot sticks sprinkled on top of his food will not help build your relationship. Call your bun by name and give them to him personally.

 

[lauren8165]

Oh I do. I say his name constantly. "dash". I also sit down and will hand feed him a few of the carrot pieces, if I come in and there are still some on his plate. I interact with him quite a bit. I probably interact with him too much to be honest. I think he needs smaller visits with me. I stay there petting him for long periods of time thinking it will help him realize I won't ever harm him. I will leave when he runs off, but return 30 min later off and on all night. I do this bc I love him, but also, I worry he is lonely. That is probably my biggest worry with him. I hate the thought of him being lonely and unfulfilled.