OLI_
Active Member
i live near the RHDV2 virus outbreak.
and ill make sure that he will have space to do binkies!
im so exited to see the binkies!
and ill make sure that he will have space to do binkies!
im so exited to see the binkies!
what should i use to cover up the ends of the cage fence?
- Thread starter OLI_
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PeanutsPlace
Well-Known Member
Since you live near an outbreak you have to be extra cautious, (also get the vaccine when you can) Don’t leave you’re shoes anywhere your rabbit, and wash your hands before entering your space with the rabbit.
“
How RHDV2 Spreads
Photo Courtesy of Canva
The RHDV2 virus is very resistant to extreme temperatures. It
can be spread through direct contact or exposure to an infected rabbit’s excretions or blood. The virus can also survive and spread from carcasses, food, water, and any contaminated materials. People can spread the virus indirectly by carrying it on their clothing and shoes.
A vaccine for RHDV2 is not currently licensed in the U.S. Instead, it is up to you as the owner to protect your rabbits by practicing good biosecurity. Biosecurity means taking simple steps every day to keep germs away from your animals. These actions will significantly reduce the chance of RHDV2 or other contagious diseases affecting your rabbits.
Follow these recommended biosecurity practices:
• Do not allow pet or wild rabbits to have contact with your rabbits or gain entry to
the facility or home.
• Do not allow visitors in rabbitries or let them handle pet rabbits without protective
clothing (including coveralls, shoe covers, hair covering, and gloves).
• Always wash hands with warm soapy water before entering your rabbit area, after
removing protective clothing and before leaving the rabbit area.
1
• Do not introduce new rabbits from unknown or untrusted sources. Do not add rabbits to your rabbitry from animal shelters or other types of rescue operations.
• If you bring outside rabbits into your facility or home, keep them separated from your existing rabbits for at least 30 days. Use separate equipment for newly acquired or sick rabbits to avoid spreading disease.
• Sanitize all equipment and cages moved on or off premises before they are returned to the rabbitry. We recommend disinfecting with 10% bleach or 10% sodium hydroxide mixed with water.
• Establish a working relationship with a veterinarian to review biosecurity practices for identification and closure of possible gaps.
If you are a breeder or grower who purchases live rabbits, even if you have existing biosecurity measures in place, you should review your practices and take steps to address potential gaps.”
“
How RHDV2 Spreads
Photo Courtesy of Canva
The RHDV2 virus is very resistant to extreme temperatures. It
can be spread through direct contact or exposure to an infected rabbit’s excretions or blood. The virus can also survive and spread from carcasses, food, water, and any contaminated materials. People can spread the virus indirectly by carrying it on their clothing and shoes.
A vaccine for RHDV2 is not currently licensed in the U.S. Instead, it is up to you as the owner to protect your rabbits by practicing good biosecurity. Biosecurity means taking simple steps every day to keep germs away from your animals. These actions will significantly reduce the chance of RHDV2 or other contagious diseases affecting your rabbits.
Follow these recommended biosecurity practices:
• Do not allow pet or wild rabbits to have contact with your rabbits or gain entry to
the facility or home.
• Do not allow visitors in rabbitries or let them handle pet rabbits without protective
clothing (including coveralls, shoe covers, hair covering, and gloves).
• Always wash hands with warm soapy water before entering your rabbit area, after
removing protective clothing and before leaving the rabbit area.
1
• Do not introduce new rabbits from unknown or untrusted sources. Do not add rabbits to your rabbitry from animal shelters or other types of rescue operations.
• If you bring outside rabbits into your facility or home, keep them separated from your existing rabbits for at least 30 days. Use separate equipment for newly acquired or sick rabbits to avoid spreading disease.
• Sanitize all equipment and cages moved on or off premises before they are returned to the rabbitry. We recommend disinfecting with 10% bleach or 10% sodium hydroxide mixed with water.
• Establish a working relationship with a veterinarian to review biosecurity practices for identification and closure of possible gaps.
If you are a breeder or grower who purchases live rabbits, even if you have existing biosecurity measures in place, you should review your practices and take steps to address potential gaps.”
OLI_
Active Member
Thank you so much for this info, i will be sure to follow these precautions once i get my rabbit!
Baby bunnies are a lot more destructive than adult bunnies so make sure anything you don’t want destroyed is out of their reach. My bun chewed up my crocs, chargers, piano cable, my wooden bed legs, wooden drawer, leather cover, carpet, baseboards, wall, etc so I had to buy wire covers, cover everything with cardboard that I couldn’t move, and make sure everything else was out of reach. They’re also more hyperactive so they need a lot of toys and room for zoomies and binkies. Diet wise, they’ll need alfalfa hay while they’re babies but I would recommend mixing alfalfa and Timothy hay so they get used to the taste. Alfalfa hay is a lot sweeter than the hay they need to eat as adults so some may reject Timothy and it’ll be a bit troublesome to get them to transition. Also make sure you get a heavy bowl for water because my bun loved to pick his up and spill all the water on the floor. Be careful of any house plants you may have because some are very toxic to rabbits. I believe you can still have the TV in the bunny room, like I said before my bunny free rooms in my room and I do have a TV in there. My TV is mounted on the wall though but there’s still a drawer under it to hold all the boxes and I have never seen him try to go up there once, just make sure to hide/cover up the cables. I would also look around the room and make sure that there are no places that the bun can hide in where you can’t get him and if they are you could just block them off by adding cardboard or other things you may have around the room. Last but not least I would take a TON of pictures when he’s small like that because they grow up so FAST!! I don’t have nearly enough pictures of my bun when he was all small and bright eyed. Take as many pics and you can even when they’re not doing anything!okay thanks! and i could probaly use most of the shelves in there to put bunny stuff etc and leave the middle part for litter, i am going to take out the fencing in a bit and will try and find everythign i need on amazon etc
when i get the rabbit it will be a rex that is around 7-9 weeks once i get him. is there anything that i need to take precaution/have ready for a rabbit that young?
and any other info on how to prevent diseases etc?
i am so exited for summer because i end school around the middle of may and will probaly get the bunny sometime at the end of may early june. so lots of bunny time! <3
OLI_
Active Member
okay thanks! this is great advice! i will make sure to buy cord covers and cardboard to have on hand.probaly buy a photobook too!
Awesome! I’m glad this helped and the photobook would be an amazing idea!!
For a first-time bunny owner, it is advised to get a rabbit that is at least 6 months of age, preferably already fixed. Starting out with a baby rabbit is not advised for many reasons!!
Here's a quote from my site:
Myth: Getting a baby will help me bond with bunny and make him like to be handled.
This is perhaps one of the top myths which is based on comparisons with other species (like dogs). It just isn't true for rabbits. The innate personality of each individual rabbit is not going to be influenced in any significant way by human interaction.
Founder of Bunny Bunch rescue, Caroline Charland, states, "People often think a rabbit must be held a lot as a baby in order to like being held as an adult.I don't find this true at all. Over the years, the Bunny Bunch rescue I founded has saved many mother and baby rabbits from shelters. All the babies were treated the same. When they became adults their personalities varied-- some liked to be held, some hated to be held and some tolerated being held."
(Rabbits USA 2014 magazine)
Fixed rabbits are past hormones and therefore have evident personalities. By meeting already fixed rabbits, one can see the personality of the rabbit that one is considering. This is a huge advantage in considering the right pet for you.
And the following link explains how best to find just the right rabbit for you. Remember, since this rabbit may be with you for the next 10 years, you'll want to be sure the rabbit has the personality and temperament that you are hoping for. There is no way possible to predict that (or shape that) with a baby rabbit.
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/choosing-your-first-bunny.html
A note about exercise pens: a 48" tall pen is certainly tall enough for a rabbit, but because of the extra height, it is very heavy. I'm not petite by any means but it is a struggle for me to pick one up and move it about. I end up "walking" it by putting one corner down at a time and waddling it forward (not great for one's flooring!). I have found the 30" height to be sufficient for each of the dozen plus rabbits I've had (never had a dwarf). There are the rare exceptions of course, but for indoors, a 30" height should be sufficient and it is loads easier to move and manage.
Also, while a single pen placed into a square makes a 4' x 4' square (16 sq ft), that same pen can create a much larger space by making use of an existing wall. I doubled the space simply by making use of a single wall. If one makes use of a corner (2 walls) , it could be even larger.
Also, while a single pen placed into a square makes a 4' x 4' square (16 sq ft), that same pen can create a much larger space by making use of an existing wall. I doubled the space simply by making use of a single wall. If one makes use of a corner (2 walls) , it could be even larger.
OLI_
Active Member
ooh great idea of connecting it to a wall! ill do that. would the rabbit like it more if it was near a wall with a widow or one without?
Either way. Some like to look out a window.
Please do read those links about baby rabbits. I know it may seem ideal to get a baby but the links explain more. Quite a few members here went against this advice & then later admitted that they wished they had heeded that suggestion and started with an adult rabbit (6+ months).
Instead of standing it up, could you lie it down and cover the top with 18 inch high wire? And have just one door? That would gave your bun more room to move around in.
OLI_
Active Member
i have read the links and i think i am still going to get a baby rabbit, i really hope that no one is mad.i do understand that i cannot shape the personality of the rabbit and i will not try to do so by overhandling etc. i promise not to rehome the rabbit and i will care for him appropriately.
In that case, I encourage you to call some local vets and find out the price they charge for spay surgery. Prices can vary greatly depending on what part of the country you are in. Then see if your parents are willing (or you are able) to pay that amount. You'll need it just a few months after you get the baby. Parents may be willing to pay $25 for a rabbit but don't tend to be keen on paying $250-$400 on a spay.
You'll also need to be prepared for cleaning up smeared poos as baby adjusts to eating his/her cecotropes. Also the urine odor of intact males can be incredibly smelly (and they tend to like to jump in the air and spray that urine on whomever is nearby). So we've seen parents insist that the new rabbit be moved outdoors (because of the baby mess and odor). Just some things to get prepared for.
You'll also need to be prepared for cleaning up smeared poos as baby adjusts to eating his/her cecotropes. Also the urine odor of intact males can be incredibly smelly (and they tend to like to jump in the air and spray that urine on whomever is nearby). So we've seen parents insist that the new rabbit be moved outdoors (because of the baby mess and odor). Just some things to get prepared for.
OLI_
Active Member
okay i will make sure to be ready for the odor. ive heard mixing water with vinager works for that, is that safe to use around the rabbit? and i will have enough money for the surgery by the time he would be old enough. i am planning to get a summer job sometime in may and just in case, my parents said they would help cover the cost of the neuter.
Yeah neuters are usually a bit more cheaper than a spay and less invasive too! Vinegar and water is actually the go to option when cleaning anything in your bunny’s habitat because it is safe! My vet have me an estimate of around $500!! I called like 20 vets to see their rates, compare their prices, and see which services they required and found a vet that charged me $120! I had my Dusty at 7 weeks old and he sprayed the wall by his littler box and under my desk
I cleaned it with apple cider vinegar and water and thankfully he outgrew it. When you have a baby bunny you have to adapt to them and their behavior even as they grow up and hit puberty. They could develop bad behaviors or grow out of some just remember to never give up on them!!
Orrin
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Be sure you and your parents are prepared for this sort of thing when your baby hits puberty. This is just a sampling of what our mixed-breed buck, Alfie, would do when he hit became a "teenager."
He was amazingly accurate with his aim. He would hop past his sister's enclosure and without even breaking stride he'd nail her with a direct hit.
We've raised rabbits from birth and we've adopted adults who were already spayed. The babes were cute; but, the adults gave us just as much enjoyment with a whole lot less expense and hassle.
He was amazingly accurate with his aim. He would hop past his sister's enclosure and without even breaking stride he'd nail her with a direct hit.
We've raised rabbits from birth and we've adopted adults who were already spayed. The babes were cute; but, the adults gave us just as much enjoyment with a whole lot less expense and hassle.
