Starting to hate my rabbit... (new here)

[waite.sarah89]

I agree, the cage is too small. The rabbit has also probably hit sexual maturity & needs to be spayed or neutered, the mood swings are because of surging hormones. A exercise pen meant for small dogs would probably be a better choice & they are pretty inexpensive. It is great that bun gets that much out of cage time, keep it up!

Toys are important, I'll link a how to video to make some homemade toys out of things you probably have around the house. It also needs to go back to the vet if you think the mites might be coming back. Oh and hay should be unlimited, you may need to fill it a couple of times a day.

We are currently working with our bun to get used to being held. The method we are using is to wrap the rabbit up in a large thick towel like a burrito with it's head sticking out. This allows you to not be scratched & keep the rabbit from kicking. You can use this method to trim its nails.

Sounds like you have your work cut out for you, just keep working with it & get it to the vet to be fixed & have the mite situation taken care of as soon as you can. Good luck!

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NG09fJySq2g[/ame]

 

[NorthernAutumn]

Hi there,

I can offer some insight into the ear mites issue. It's easy and cheap to treat, though the mites may persist - sometimes it takes a couple of full courses of treatment to solve the issue. Based on effectiveness, I would promote you to use injectible ivermectin through your vet. They may offer you mite treatment for cats: Advantage, Revolution are ok, FRONTLINE IS LETHAL.
Capstar may be offered; however, it will only kill adult mites (not the larvae or eggs) - I would select another option if it were my rabbit..

Here is our RO Library link to Ear Mites (see bottom of the forum):
RO Library - Health: Ear Mites
You may also be interested in the MediRabbit Link: http://medirabbit.com/EN/Skin_diseases/Parasitic/earmite/Psoroptes.htm

There is a huge section in our library devoted to bunny care. See RO Library - Bunny 101 to get started. You can sort through the topics manually, or sort alphabetically (click the "Thread" header).

You may like to start here...Bunny Introduction and Index.

As for the weight issue, bun should look like more of an hourglass (wider shoulders and hips), less like a round fuzzy oval. Photos would be great if you would like help with that assessment.

If you'd like to post a few photos of your setup and the space that you have to work in over in Housing and Environment, I'm sure folks will offer some useful advice to maximize space.

Drop me a PM if you need a hand.
Welcome to RO!

 

[Imbrium]

I'm really tired, so you're getting half-assed answers from me right now, but I'll touch on the basics...

Alright, here goes:
1) Start off like I said, I'm just not sure whether it's a she or a he. In the year I've had it I can almost say it went through mood swings, because it went through a phase where it wouldn't mind being picked up at all and pet (when it was tiny and growing). Then one day it bit me and didn't want me or anyone petting it, and I honestly haven't picked it up since. But, that phase passed, about four months ago, and it let's you pet it without problem and likes it again. Just haven't picked it up. Wanna say it's a she.
have you checked out the link I provided in my first post about sexing a rabbit?
at your rabbit's age, the testicles will have descended if it's a boy... but they can suck them back up into their body a bit if they want to, so not finding them isn't a 100% guarantee that the bunny's female. however, if you've never seen your bunny spray pee, there's probably about a 70-80% chance that it's female

2) I see the cages and setups that you guys have, and what ideally the rabbit should have, but it's honestly not up to me to give it that big space and all that, it's my parents.
if you can sell your parents on getting the bunny a better cage, you can make a NIC cage that's 4 grids long by 2 grids wide by 2 grids high with a partial second level for $60 or less... grids are about 14'' square, so that amounts to a pretty huge cage. alternatively, you could make a 3 long x 2-3 wide cage that's got 3 levels so that the cage is quite roomy but doesn't take up much floor space.

when trying to convince your parents, remind them that while bunnies are often thought of as "cage" animals, there's a HUGE difference between bunnies and most other things that live/can live in a cage - bunnies don't get an exercise wheel! they require extra space to compensate for this.

4) Food wise: some hay, always pellets, and water. The occasional veggies like carrots obviously, celery, only when there's no food will I look for lettuce but only romaine.
TLDR: reverse the pellet and hay quantities - ie "always hay" and "some pellets". if the pellets have ANYTHING in them besides plain pellets, pick the other crap out.

focus on leafy green veggies over non-leafy ones like carrots and celery. romaine is a wonderful thing to feed. cilantro is also very good and can be fed daily/in large amounts (it's not high in anything that should only be fed in moderation) and it's DIRT CHEAP - cheaper than any other veggies. kale tends to be a favorite but is high in oxalates and calcium so it should be fed in moderation. to give an idea of pricing, in my area, a head of romaine is $1.98, a kale bunch (which is about equivalent to a head of lettuce) is 88c and cilantro is 28c a bunch - you can easily offer some variety very cheaply.

another way to increase your rabbit's veggie intake on a budget is to ask to talk to your grocery store's produce manager - explain that you've got a bunny and ask if they have any produce trimmings that would normally be thrown out that you could buy very cheaply or get for free (ie the parts that people normally don't eat like carrot tops, broccoli leaves, leaves from fruits, that sort of thing). a rabbit shouldn't live off trimmings alone, but they can make for some nice snacks!

if your parents are buying it pet store hay, convince them to buy a bale of horse quality grass hay from a feed store - it's like $12 for a year's supply of hay for one rabbit compared to about $300 for a year's supply at the pet store. point out just how much money they'll save from buying hay by the bale and ask if they'd pretty please put $50-60 of that savings towards materials for a bigger cage.

5) I actually think it's safe to say they're just longer than they should be, which is more of a reason I don't try picking it up. So it's a vicious circle to even try and take care of it's nails (I will admit it's been a year and no they haven't been cut, very embarrassed or w.e but I just don't know how to though especially since it doesn't like being carried. The one time I tried picking it up after it bit me it ran around the house and I thought it was gonna have a heart attack so I gave up ever since.
these two pages have some great info on nail trims and how to keep a bunny calm for them:
http://www.rabbitsonline.net/f28/nail-clipping-10519/
http://www.mybunnies.com/trance.htm

re: nail trims and sexing your rabbit... here's the easiest way to deal with the bunny:
sit on the floor beside the rabbit. put one hand under the rabbit's chest and the other under it's bootie. pull the rabbit into your lap... hold it so that it's rear end is facing straight at your forearm/elbow of your non-dominant hand/arm (ie your left if you're right-handed). keep one hand under the rabbit's butt as a pivot point, then use the hand that's under its chest to flip it over in one swift move. you'll be holding the bunny with its head in your elbow and its side pressed against your chest, just like you'd hold a baby.
use your non-dominant hand to keep the rabbit secured so that your other hand is free to clip nails or check the bunny's gender.

re: toys... if your parents would be ok with you PMing me your address, I'd be happy to send you a little care package of some cheap but fun toys for your bunny to play with! (free of charge )
if you can talk them into a NIC cage before I send the care package, I'll even throw in some zipties for it - they get pretty pricey at hardware stores but I sell them on my site (my website's like 95% sugar glider stuff, but the same zipties are used for sugar glider cages) so I'm able to buy them in bulk at wholesale prices, which is SOOO much cheaper - I can also include some of those (again, free) so that all you'd need is two boxes of grids, either plywood or coroplast for the flooring and maybe a couple wooden dowels for stability on the levels.

in case you missed it in my first post, since it was CRAMMED full of links, here's the cage info again:
http://breyfamily.net/bunnycage.html
http://www.guineapigcages.com/cubes.htm (shows how to do coroplast floors if you'd rather use that than plywood)
best deal on grids for the cages: http://www.sears.com/stor-floor-sta...p-00913332000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

 

[candice136]

I'm really tired, so you're getting half-assed answers from me right now, but I'll touch on the basics...



re: nail trims and sexing your rabbit... here's the easiest way to deal with the bunny:
sit on the floor beside the rabbit. put one hand under the rabbit's chest and the other under it's bootie. pull the rabbit into your lap... hold it so that it's rear end is facing straight at your forearm/elbow of your non-dominant hand/arm (ie your left if you're right-handed). keep one hand under the rabbit's butt as a pivot point, then use the hand that's under its chest to flip it over in one swift move. you'll be holding the bunny with its head in your elbow and its side pressed against your chest, just like you'd hold a baby.
use your non-dominant hand to keep the rabbit secured so that your other hand is free to clip nails or check the bunny's gender.

re: toys... if your parents would be ok with you PMing me your address, I'd be happy to send you a little care package of some cheap but fun toys for your bunny to play with! (free of charge )
if you can talk them into a NIC cage before I send the care package, I'll even throw in some zipties for it - they get pretty pricey at hardware stores but I sell them on my site (my website's like 95% sugar glider stuff, but the same zipties are used for sugar glider cages) so I'm able to buy them in bulk at wholesale prices, which is SOOO much cheaper - I can also include some of those (again, free) so that all you'd need is two boxes of grids, either plywood or coroplast for the flooring and maybe a couple wooden dowels for stability on the levels.

in case you missed it in my first post, since it was CRAMMED full of links, here's the cage info again:
http://breyfamily.net/bunnycage.html
http://www.guineapigcages.com/cubes.htm (shows how to do coroplast floors if you'd rather use that than plywood)
best deal on grids for the cages: http://www.sears.com/stor-floor-sta...p-00913332000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Hello, my rabbit gets bored when in his cage and in his run we have brought him blocks for him to chew on but he dosn't seem to bother, I noticed you mentioned sending free packages out to people, i hope im not being cheeky asking but do you send them to the uk if so could i have one i would be really grateful if you would send me one for my rabbit sorry if its a bit cheeky to ask xxx

 

[Brenda burciago]

Sounds like your bunny needs a friend you might try when you clean the cage talk to your bunny i do i tell mineah come see me pretty baby your so sweet an i talk to him while im cleaning his cage he has a cage inside of a cage the small one is his bed the big one is for poop and food and pine cone playing after i clean its cage ill sit in a chair and just talk to him he will lay down and strech out his legs like a dog and relax he will get up stand on his back legs strech and look at me but he knows im there for him he use to dump his bowls of food pellets as soon as i put them in his cage i gave him a ceramic bowl 3inches vy 3 inches and about 1 inch in deepth he likes it he dont dump it any more your bowk could be to deep for him my rabbits water bottle the spout is high enough to where he dont have to put his head low and turn his head in a uncomfortable position he dont have toreach deep into a bowl to get his pelletts and i always give him timothy hay i line his bed with it he dont poop in the cage thts his bed the only way your rabbit can let you know hey i dont like this is show you mine dumpes his bowl because he didnt like it you need to spend time with your rabbit and watch his body language youll learn it they are smart these little bunnys and if you pay attention you to will be commuinicating shortly good luck hope i helped you

 

[Blue eyes]

@Brenda burciago Welcome to the forum! You may not have noticed, but there are dates above each post. This one has not been active for almost 6 years. The OP (original poster) isn't active on the forum anymore. (Just FYI since you are new to the forum.)

Also, it would be most helpful if you would use punctuation and full sentences. It seems like you may have some good info to share but it is extremely difficult to read or understand.

 

[DenMother]

Hi there, i'm really sorry to hear about your situation. It takes a lot of bravery to post to a site for rabbit owners and rabbit lovers as someone who doesn't like their pet or particularly want a rabbit. I hope other posters realize that this animal was forced upon you and you're just trying to do right by it. I'd talk about how to live mess-free with a rabbit (since my rabbit is very mess-free) but I highly recommend that you just find someone who actually wants it and will be able to give adequate care for it. In the meantime, here are some tips and tricks I've used to reduce the mess in my home:

- Use a food bowl that doesn't tip over, like this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/518Xi8WTyNL.jpg Here in Toronto, you can find them in the dollar store. Put only a small amount of pellets, a small amount of fresh veg and fruit snacks, and a small amount of water in it in the morning when your bun is at max hunger. It will eat its food and leave nothing to tip over. With a messy bunny, it's easier to fill its bowls 3 or 4 times a day and clean up no mess than to fill it up once or twice a day and clean up a huge mess each time.

- Litterbox train your rabbit. This is incredibly easy. No animal has been easier to litter train in my opinion. Buns are already very clean animals who restrict urination to a corner of their cage or crate. Watch for where it pees and place a box of hay there. They will crawl into the box and pee there. I use a little plastic tub from the dollar store. It should have walls short enough to jump over (which shouldn't be a problem since bunnies are very high jumpers), and should have enough room for the bun to turn a full circle in. Not WALK a full circle (although rule of thumb is always the bigger the better), but TURN a full circle in. So don't worry, you don't have to buy a massive tub or anything.

- Restrict food to the litterbox area. Buns like to eat while they do their business. This is also a great way to reinforce litter habits. Place its food and water by the hay. Additionally, place a hay feeder right next to the litter box so that they have access to clean hay even while sitting in a pile of hay.

- Pad your cage floor in layers and make daily cleanup easy for you. For example, it takes me a grand total of 10 minutes every morning to feed and clean my bun's habitat, and that's considering the fact that I'm very anally retentive about cleanliness and my bunny is severely disabled. If you don't give as much of a **** and you have a perfectly able bunny, your mess shouldn't take long at all to clean up. Do a quick clean of the top layers once every morning and do a full cleanup job once a weekend. Here's my order of layers: Starting from the bottom, your first layer should be hard and non-porous, like a cage floor, crate tray, or just any kind of plastic. I keep my boy in a pen which doesn't come with a floor, so I make my own custom floor with corruplast. On top of this, use pee pads. You don't want to be taking out the entire floor of your habitat and cleaning it daily or even weekly. You won't have to do this if you use pee pads. Thirdly, layer newspapers all over the cage floor. ALL over, in as many large layers as you can. This way, when your rabbit pees, you can just toss the top layers of paper in that area that have been soaked. I like to place a couple extra papers underneath the litter area and my bun's covered house area because those are the places where he is sedentary for long periods of time. You can add a final fleece blanket layer, but it's some additional work. Here's a good, detailed read on using fleece as a top layer: https://www.guineapigmarket.com/fleece-right-for-me

- Buy a small hand vacuum. This one's cheap and dope, you'll find yourself using it for a lot more than your animal: https://www.amazon.ca/BLACK-DECKER-...XOJC0&linkId=92d8538b603bfd78a82af617a09f1e84

 

[Blue eyes]

@DenMother , Welcome to the forum! You may not have noticed, but there are dates above each post. This one has not been active for almost 6 years. (except for Brenda above who likewise did not notice the dates.) The OP (original poster) isn't active on the forum anymore. (Just FYI since you are new to the forum.)

 

[DenMother]

@DenMother , Welcome to the forum! You may not have noticed, but there are dates above each post. This one has not been active for almost 6 years. (except for Brenda above who likewise did not notice the dates.) The OP (original poster) isn't active on the forum anymore. (Just FYI since you are new to the forum.)

LOL I feel like a moron haha

I'll leave my info up nonetheless, in case someone stumbling across this thread will see it if they need it.

 

[Blue eyes]

No worries. I wouldn't want to erase all that typing either!

 

[Whiterabbitrage]

I didn’t noticed the date either! Oops!