Starting a Pedigree for Unpedigreed Rabbits?

[Blaze_Amita]

That's what we did with my mini rex doe. She's G-2 because her mother's ped never came in and her father was a worked down bloodline, he was the 4th or 5th generation down, her children are Generation 3 and fully pedigree-able. We had Poppy's parents and her grandparents info so that was as far back as we were able to go.

Anyway. we will all try to help answer questions!

 

[countrybuns]

You will probably see the F1,2,3 a bit more in lionheads because people are still working on type and bringing ND's and other breeds to correct them. One of my new bucks is F3 because a thrianta was introduced into the lines 3 generations back to correct colour (blue tort) he has great type and a beautiful mane and I will be line breeding him along with a lilac doe to get lilac torts out of the deal so I know that when I am ready to show them the lilac torts will be considered purebred.

now for my question; on my rabbits pedigrees there are some missing weights, will that affect my ability to register my rabbits if I ever needed to?

 

[DarkLadyKat]

So I don't know if this thread is still followed up on but I have a pedigree start up question as well as would like to know if I am headed in the right direction here.

So we like many others are starting from non pedigreed bunnies. Most if not all of which we know what the parents were/are their color and size However most of the parents did not have ear tattoos.

So first question does a bunny have to have an ear tattoo to be listed on a pedigree?

Next because we know we have to produce 3 generation to Complete a pedigree we have decided to start each breed of bunny with 2 unrelated males and 4 females with at least 2 unrelated lines in our females.

So for example sake B1, and B2 will be males and D1B1, D2B1, D3B2, D4B2 will be the 4 does the first 2 being sisters of B1 and second 2 sisters of B2

So if we breed
B1/D3B2 (litter1) and B1/D4B2 (litter2) and then B2/D1B1 (litter3) and B2/D2B1 (litter4)

And for example sake now we have produced gen 2 and we keep 1 Buck from litter litter 1 (G2B1) and 3(G2B2) and 1 Doe from litter 2(G2D4B1) and 4(G2D2B2) and we then breed

G2B1/G2D2B2 & G2B2/G2D4B1
we have produced G3 and if we keep a buck from 1 litter and a doe from the other
Their offspring would finally be G4 which would be full blooded, with non inbred lines and have a full pedigree

Bringing me to question 2; Please tell me if I am on the right track here for this process?

Now my final thoughts are how many generations or degrees of separation are typical within a rabbitry (I know direct relationship are just inbreeding such as mom/son, dad/daughter, full bro/full sis) but where do the degrees become safe and acceptable within 1 pedigree aunts and nephews, half sibling, grandparents and grandchildren/great grandchildren.

So final question is what is common practice in generation skipping/dilution for carrying on your lines?

A little information about myself I have been in a family that has raised and bred many animals for food, show, and pets but times have changed a lot since I was a part of the process and so have acceptable practices which is why I am seeking out a polled forum to reacquaint myself with today's common practices.

Thank you all for your time and patience.

 

[SableSteel]

You'd probably be better off starting a new thread. The old one is from 2010 and many of the people that responded aren't active any longer.

They don't need an ear tattoo to be on a pedigree as long as they have a name to identify them by (not just the prefix) afaik

Personally, if your goal is pedigreed rabbits, you should just find pedigreed rabbits to start with. The price of breeding and feeding three generations of unpedigreed rabbits is usually well more than the price of pedigreed stock + transportation. In most cases the breeders who keep pedigrees are the better ones to buy breeding stock from as well, especially if you plan on showing.

How much you can linebreed depends on your line. If your rabbits have the same faults and weaknesses you need to bring in new blood, if not you can tolerate more linebreeding. Rabbits tend to handle inbreeding better than some other animals we keep as pets (dogs, horses, etc). Personally, I don't care about linebreeding too much. If a father/daughter or brother/sister pair complement each other, I'll breed them, but this only works because the lines Im breeding from don't have many genetic weaknesses and I have no tolerance for genetic flaws. It depends on breed as well. Some breeds suffer more from inbreeding depression than others.

 

[emily braun]

I NEED HELP! I bought a purebred Rex that doesn’t have a pedigree, I’ve showed her without one so I know she’s purebred. Who I bought her from doesn’t pedigree his rabbits and I’m no longer in contact with him so how do I start with just her? Or would I have to breed her and pedigree her kits?

 

[Happy Hollands]

I NEED HELP! I bought a purebred Rex that doesn’t have a pedigree, I’ve showed her without one so I know she’s purebred. Who I bought her from doesn’t pedigree his rabbits and I’m no longer in contact with him so how do I start with just her? Or would I have to breed her and pedigree her kits?

A pedigree proves a rabbit is purebred, and it goes 3 generations back. So while possible, it's a long process to "create" one. I recommend reaching out to the breeder you bought her from and asking about her parents (names, colors, weight, DOB, etc.). This way, her babies' babies will be considered fully purebred / pedigreed. Otherwise, if you start with her, it will be a full 3 generations (which could take around 1.5 - 2 years) before the rabbits will be fully pedigreed.