petkeeper wrote:
In the article from that site and the care sheet...it says to cut out pellets until poop returns to normal then slowly retroduce fresh greens. They don't recommend comercial pellets at all. Rabbits by nature would not eat pellets... it is like everything else, cat food, dog food, canned people food and frozen pizzas, it is all there for our convenience, because it easier than feed raw or all natural and cheaper too.
I have tried everything else I am going to try this. Yes I did have the fecal tests and they were normal and I was told that maybe the rabbit should be put down.I choose not todo this. Please don't yell at me for this I am doing what I think is best, some of you may not agree with my methods, but for right now this is the way I choose to do it. Harley is not getting the nutrition he needs currently anyway because his night poops are completely unedible, that is my main concern right now is getting him back to normal. It will also help with a healthy weight loss if he is over weight.
I only posted this because I am hoping maybe this site will help others, it helped me where no vet in my area could! If you read the vets bio, she has dealt with everything dogs, cats, ferrets, rabbits, hedgehogs, etc. I would at this point trust her more than my vets.
As for pellets where I am from I can get Martins, Purina, Shurgain and Co-op...that is it!
I will keep you posted.
LOL! Nobody's going to yell at you, and we're all agreeing with what's in the article.
I think in every post, thepellets were suspect. The only thing under discussion is the tweaking.
The pellet/no pellet question has been an argument between vets forages, Susan Brown is a long-standing advocate of that practice.Some vets agree with her, some don't. (You'll find vets out there who will say all they need is pellets). Her articles areprobably half the inspiration for the recent trend to high-fiber pellets.
The trick is to do what works for YOUR bunny.
Many bunnies (like mine) are sensitive to carbs and sugars, while someothers can have their systems upset by vegetables.
The old school thought for pet bunnies is that pellets were good forbreeders and meat producers, not house pets -- which I think is true -- but since then (relatively recently I believe), companies like Oxbow started making the high fiber Timothy pellets (which are actually a mix of grasses), and now Martin makes Kaytee Less Active Timothy Complete -- not as high-fiber as Oxbow, but better than the regular stuff. There'squite adifference between those pellets and regular pellets. This really is an evolving science.
It depends what your bunny is sensitive to, where you live and what's available in terms of pellets, produce,sun and budget, and even logistics, likewhether you're feeding more than one bunny in the same area.
If you're planning on feeding him lots of veggies (as the article says), you can do without pellets (you never did say much about veggies in your original post in the other thread, and you said taking awaythe pellets didn't help). But you shouldn'tfeed him only hay without other nutrients. If he's been on a hay-only diet for awhile and you plan on continuing that, that's fine, but as the article says, he'll probablyneed supplements.
And thank you for being smarter than the vet who suggested putting him down!
Thanks again for the article! I've read a lot of her work, but lots of stuff in there I forgot about.There's soooo much to learn.
SAS
and PIPP :bunnydance:
