Setting up for new rabbits

[Ryes]

Sorry for the long read but I'd like to describe a space, give my thoughts, and get others' input.

We are getting two plush mini lops (bonded male and female) the 3rd week of March. As soon as they are old enough they will be spayed and neutered.

I've decided to convert our grandkids' play area under the stairs (see attached pics) to the rabbits' home. It's around 32 sqft but after they are litter trained, they will free roam during the day and evening. I'll be using gate panels to section off the area for introduction to our home and litter training. I'll put a gate (with a built-in rabbit door) on the opening so they will have their own area once they are free roaming the house.

The space has vinyl plank on the floor and the walls are sheetrock. I'd like to cover the walls above the baseboards to a height of 18-24" just to protect the walls and allow easy cleanup. I'd also like to cover the floor for the same reason. My idea is plexiglass or HDPE on the wall and durable vinyl mats on the floor. This will cost around $250.

I'd like to hear others thoughts for wall and floor covering that would serve the same purpose. Do I really need anything on the walls? If so, to what height?

 

[JBun]

Plexiglass is a good chew resistant durable option to cover walls. There are lots of different ideas you can look at through a Google search.



Cheaper uptions that may work as well, are plastic sheets of FRP wall paneling used in bathrooms. A 4x8ft sheet is about $45 at a home improvement store. Plus it's flexible and will be easier to fit in a tight space than cuts of hard plexiglass.

Plastic FRP wall panel

Or textured lino is a good waterproof flooring to cover the floor, then run it 24 inches or more up the wall as well. Edges need to be high enough the rabbits can't reach to chew, and high enough to protect against any urine spraying. Or if you want to use your current flooring but have some protection over it, washable dog whelping pads can be a good option. I would also suggest to silicone caulk any floor and edge seams.

https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/housing-options.html
View attachment 59775

View attachment 59776

And just some additional information on bonded rabbits. If the two rabbits you're getting aren't already spayed and neutered, they aren't truly considered as being bonded. If they're baby rabbits, baby buns almost always get along until they reach puberty, then once the hormones start, everything changes.

By 12 weeks old(though sometimes by 8-10 weeks) juvenile rabbits need to be separated, as this is usually when hormones start. Not separating would risk serious fighting starting and/or the risk of pregnancy. Once separated, usually you have to wait until 4-6 months old for them to be old enough to get fixed. Then a 4-8 week waiting period before hormones have faded enough to begin bonding attempts. But even then there are no guarantees they'll bond.

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Spaying_and_neutering_rabbits
https://rabbit.org/veterinarians/
https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/opcare.html
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Medicating_your_rabbit
Rabbits have to be compatible personalities for a bond to work out. And baby rabbits personalities can change once they hit puberty. So baby rabbits that once got along, may not like each other anymore once they're spayed and neutered adult rabbits. So going this route instead of getting an already fixed adult bonded pair, is somewhat of a risk. It is possible it could work out just fine, but it's important to know of the possibility that it might not and that you could then have two rabbits that have to remain separated.

https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/choosing-your-first-bunny.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bonding-bunnies.html
https://cottontails-rescue.org.uk/information/bonding-bunnies/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bonding_rabbits_together
When you get to the point you're ready to free roam your rabbits, if you don't already know about bunny proofing, I would suggest reading up on it and starting to make the needed changes, particularly important is proper bunny proofing of electrical cords.

https://bunnyproof.com/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bunny-proofing
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bunny-proofing.html

 

[Blue eyes]

The space has vinyl plank on the floor and the walls are sheetrock. I'd like to cover the walls above the baseboards to a height of 18-24" just to protect the walls and allow easy cleanup. I'd also like to cover the floor for the same reason. My idea is plexiglass or HDPE on the wall and durable vinyl mats on the floor. This will cost around $250.

I'd like to hear others thoughts for wall and floor covering that would serve the same purpose. Do I really need anything on the walls? If so, to what height?

Love to hear all of your preparation and planning. Jenny provided loads of great info for your consideration.

Just wanted to pop on here to show one of the setups we had done that has similarities to what you are considering. YES, you will want to have something on the walls. The plexiglass we used did indeed get messy. We wanted a "home base" area for a pair of rabbits in our open dining/kitchen area so we needed to protect the drywall. I'd suggest no less than 24" in height for covering the wall. Covering your floor would be a good idea as well.

You mentioned putting plexi above the baseboards. Whatever you decide to use on the walls, you may want to put it in front of the baseboard (down to the floor). I've had some rabbits that took to chewing the tops of the baseboards.

Disclaimer: Do bear in mind that the photo attached shows their home base but the door was never closed. (also, pic was snapped before I added hay to their litter box)

 

[Ryes]

Plexiglass is a good chew resistant durable option to cover walls. There are lots of different ideas you can look at through a Google search.



Cheaper uptions that may work as well, are plastic sheets of FRP wall paneling used in bathrooms. A 4x8ft sheet is about $45 at a home improvement store. Plus it's flexible and will be easier to fit in a tight space than cuts of hard plexiglass.

Plastic FRP wall panel

Or textured lino is a good waterproof flooring to cover the floor, then run it 24 inches or more up the wall as well. Edges need to be high enough the rabbits can't reach to chew, and high enough to protect against any urine spraying. Or if you want to use your current flooring but have some protection over it, washable dog whelping pads can be a good option. I would also suggest to silicone caulk any floor and edge seams.



And just some additional information on bonded rabbits. If the two rabbits you're getting aren't already spayed and neutered, they aren't truly considered as being bonded. If they're baby rabbits, baby buns almost always get along until they reach puberty, then once the hormones start, everything changes.

By 12 weeks old(though sometimes by 8-10 weeks) juvenile rabbits need to be separated, as this is usually when hormones start. Not separating would risk serious fighting starting and/or the risk of pregnancy. Once separated, usually you have to wait until 4-6 months old for them to be old enough to get fixed. Then a 4-8 week waiting period before hormones have faded enough to begin bonding attempts. But even then there are no guarantees they'll bond.

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Spaying_and_neutering_rabbits
https://rabbit.org/veterinarians/
https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/opcare.html
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Medicating_your_rabbit
Rabbits have to be compatible personalities for a bond to work out. And baby rabbits personalities can change once they hit puberty. So baby rabbits that once got along, may not like each other anymore once they're spayed and neutered adult rabbits. So going this route instead of getting an already fixed adult bonded pair, is somewhat of a risk. It is possible it could work out just fine, but it's important to know of the possibility that it might not and that you could then have two rabbits that have to remain separated.

https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/choosing-your-first-bunny.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bonding-bunnies.html
https://cottontails-rescue.org.uk/information/bonding-bunnies/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bonding_rabbits_together
When you get to the point you're ready to free roam your rabbits, if you don't already know about bunny proofing, I would suggest reading up on it and starting to make the needed changes, particularly important is proper bunny proofing of electrical cords.

https://bunnyproof.com/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bunny-proofing
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bunny-proofing.html

Love to hear all of your preparation and planning. Jenny provided loads of great info for your consideration.

Just wanted to pop on here to show one of the setups we had done that has similarities to what you are considering. YES, you will want to have something on the walls. The plexiglass we used did indeed get messy. We wanted a "home base" area for a pair of rabbits in our open dining/kitchen area so we needed to protect the drywall. I'd suggest no less than 24" in height for covering the wall. Covering your floor would be a good idea as well.

You mentioned putting plexi above the baseboards. Whatever you decide to use on the walls, you may want to put it in front of the baseboard (down to the floor). I've had some rabbits that took to chewing the tops of the baseboards.

Disclaimer: Do bear in mind that the photo attached shows their home base but the door was never closed. (also, pic was snapped before I added hay to their litter box)

Plexiglass is a good chew resistant durable option to cover walls. There are lots of different ideas you can look at through a Google search.



Cheaper uptions that may work as well, are plastic sheets of FRP wall paneling used in bathrooms. A 4x8ft sheet is about $45 at a home improvement store. Plus it's flexible and will be easier to fit in a tight space than cuts of hard plexiglass.

Plastic FRP wall panel

Or textured lino is a good waterproof flooring to cover the floor, then run it 24 inches or more up the wall as well. Edges need to be high enough the rabbits can't reach to chew, and high enough to protect against any urine spraying. Or if you want to use your current flooring but have some protection over it, washable dog whelping pads can be a good option. I would also suggest to silicone caulk any floor and edge seams.



And just some additional information on bonded rabbits. If the two rabbits you're getting aren't already spayed and neutered, they aren't truly considered as being bonded. If they're baby rabbits, baby buns almost always get along until they reach puberty, then once the hormones start, everything changes.

By 12 weeks old(though sometimes by 8-10 weeks) juvenile rabbits need to be separated, as this is usually when hormones start. Not separating would risk serious fighting starting and/or the risk of pregnancy. Once separated, usually you have to wait until 4-6 months old for them to be old enough to get fixed. Then a 4-8 week waiting period before hormones have faded enough to begin bonding attempts. But even then there are no guarantees they'll bond.

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Spaying_and_neutering_rabbits
https://rabbit.org/veterinarians/
https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/opcare.html
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Medicating_your_rabbit
Rabbits have to be compatible personalities for a bond to work out. And baby rabbits personalities can change once they hit puberty. So baby rabbits that once got along, may not like each other anymore once they're spayed and neutered adult rabbits. So going this route instead of getting an already fixed adult bonded pair, is somewhat of a risk. It is possible it could work out just fine, but it's important to know of the possibility that it might not and that you could then have two rabbits that have to remain separated.

https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/choosing-your-first-bunny.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bonding-bunnies.html
https://cottontails-rescue.org.uk/information/bonding-bunnies/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bonding_rabbits_together
When you get to the point you're ready to free roam your rabbits, if you don't already know about bunny proofing, I would suggest reading up on it and starting to make the needed changes, particularly important is proper bunny proofing of electrical cords.

https://bunnyproof.com/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bunny-proofing
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bunny-proofing.html

@JBun thanks for all the information. We just want to get educated and head the right direction with our new bunnies!

 

[Ryes]

Love to hear all of your preparation and planning. Jenny provided loads of great info for your consideration.

Just wanted to pop on here to show one of the setups we had done that has similarities to what you are considering. YES, you will want to have something on the walls. The plexiglass we used did indeed get messy. We wanted a "home base" area for a pair of rabbits in our open dining/kitchen area so we needed to protect the drywall. I'd suggest no less than 24" in height for covering the wall. Covering your floor would be a good idea as well.

You mentioned putting plexi above the baseboards. Whatever you decide to use on the walls, you may want to put it in front of the baseboard (down to the floor). I've had some rabbits that took to chewing the tops of the baseboards.

Disclaimer: Do bear in mind that the photo attached shows their home base but the door was never closed. (also, pic was snapped before I added hay to their litter box)

I wondered about the baseboard chewing. I guess it would be best to go to the floor. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Ryes]

Plexiglass is a good chew resistant durable option to cover walls. There are lots of different ideas you can look at through a Google search.



Cheaper uptions that may work as well, are plastic sheets of FRP wall paneling used in bathrooms. A 4x8ft sheet is about $45 at a home improvement store. Plus it's flexible and will be easier to fit in a tight space than cuts of hard plexiglass.

Plastic FRP wall panel

Or textured lino is a good waterproof flooring to cover the floor, then run it 24 inches or more up the wall as well. Edges need to be high enough the rabbits can't reach to chew, and high enough to protect against any urine spraying. Or if you want to use your current flooring but have some protection over it, washable dog whelping pads can be a good option. I would also suggest to silicone caulk any floor and edge seams.



And just some additional information on bonded rabbits. If the two rabbits you're getting aren't already spayed and neutered, they aren't truly considered as being bonded. If they're baby rabbits, baby buns almost always get along until they reach puberty, then once the hormones start, everything changes.

By 12 weeks old(though sometimes by 8-10 weeks) juvenile rabbits need to be separated, as this is usually when hormones start. Not separating would risk serious fighting starting and/or the risk of pregnancy. Once separated, usually you have to wait until 4-6 months old for them to be old enough to get fixed. Then a 4-8 week waiting period before hormones have faded enough to begin bonding attempts. But even then there are no guarantees they'll bond.

https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Spaying_and_neutering_rabbits
https://rabbit.org/veterinarians/
https://web.as.miami.edu/hare/opcare.html
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Medicating_your_rabbit
Rabbits have to be compatible personalities for a bond to work out. And baby rabbits personalities can change once they hit puberty. So baby rabbits that once got along, may not like each other anymore once they're spayed and neutered adult rabbits. So going this route instead of getting an already fixed adult bonded pair, is somewhat of a risk. It is possible it could work out just fine, but it's important to know of the possibility that it might not and that you could then have two rabbits that have to remain separated.

https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/choosing-your-first-bunny.html
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bonding-bunnies.html
https://cottontails-rescue.org.uk/information/bonding-bunnies/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bonding_rabbits_together
When you get to the point you're ready to free roam your rabbits, if you don't already know about bunny proofing, I would suggest reading up on it and starting to make the needed changes, particularly important is proper bunny proofing of electrical cords.

https://bunnyproof.com/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bunny-proofing
https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bunny-proofing.html

I bought supplies today. I'm going with the FRP panels 24" up the wall. I hope to be mostly done by the end of this weekend. I'll post some progress pictures this weekend.

 

[littlebluejay]

I bought supplies today. I'm going with the FRP panels 24" up the wall. I hope to be mostly done by the end of this weekend. I'll post some progress pictures this weekend.

I’m looking forward to seeing what you create. Definitely agree that the baseboard should be covered. Especially if it’s a high profile.

 

[user 35459]

I wouldn’t necessarily recommend puppy pads for floor covering, but it ultimately depends on the rabbit. My angora isn’t compelled to shred puppy pads, so I can get away with it with her which is fantastic since she’s not spayed yet and can be a bit of a sprayer on occasion. My dwarf rabbit on the other hand absolutely will shred puppy pads if he finds them, but he has near perfect litter box habits so I don’t have to worry. The sides of his litter box a pretty low so there is the rare accident. I just keep a cat litter mat under the litter box. It’s water proof and easy to clean (also cheap). I wouldn’t exactly recommend it for consistently spraying rabbits (the mat wouldn’t finish drying before it needs to be cleaned again) but it might be something for you to consider. This is what I have.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Drymate-...VQwbnCh39dg-bEAQYASABEgLUv_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I also have an Oxbow Enriched Life Leakproof Play Yard floor cover, but it’s pricier and won’t cover the amount of space you need it to. I use mine for my angora, but it doesn’t cover all of the space (which is where puppy pads might come in) so I placed it in the most likely areas where she might spray. She doesn’t do it too often, but it’s always a possibility with her.

https://www.naturalpetwarehouse.com...MIgsLBt8q7_QIVIx-tBh0cNgIdEAQYESABEgLLt_D_BwE

 

[Ryes]

I wouldn’t necessarily recommend puppy pads for floor covering, but it ultimately depends on the rabbit. My angora isn’t compelled to shred puppy pads, so I can get away with it with her which is fantastic since she’s not spayed yet and can be a bit of a sprayer on occasion. My dwarf rabbit on the other hand absolutely will shred puppy pads if he finds them, but he has near perfect litter box habits so I don’t have to worry. The sides of his litter box a pretty low so there is the rare accident. I just keep a cat litter mat under the litter box. It’s water proof and easy to clean (also cheap). I wouldn’t exactly recommend it for consistently spraying rabbits (the mat wouldn’t finish drying before it needs to be cleaned again) but it might be something for you to consider. This is what I have.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Drymate-...VQwbnCh39dg-bEAQYASABEgLUv_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I also have an Oxbow Enriched Life Leakproof Play Yard floor cover, but it’s pricier and won’t cover the amount of space you need it to. I use mine for my angora, but it doesn’t cover all of the space (which is where puppy pads might come in) so I placed it in the most likely areas where she might spray. She doesn’t do it too often, but it’s always a possibility with her.

https://www.naturalpetwarehouse.com...MIgsLBt8q7_QIVIx-tBh0cNgIdEAQYESABEgLLt_D_BwE

From what I've read, every rabbit has its own personality so we will have to learn ours after we get them. I like the play yard floor cover for the exercise pen. Can you put it in the laundry? The description didn't say. Also, what size is it?

 

[user 35459]

I don’t think it’s washer safe, but it’s quite easy to wipe or spray down with a hose (or shower head if you can’t use the hose for over half the year like me). The one in the link is 42.25” x 39” x 1.75”. It’s the XL one. The cat litter mat in the other link is washer safe.