Please help - Nipping and scratching at night

[Janiene Quigley]

Thank you all who have replied to recent posts - this website is VERY helpful for new owners. We have a 10 week old male, Holland lop, Tucker. Sleeps in a large cage and moved to a playpen (3’ x 5’) in the mornings where he is allowed to roam while supervised throughout the day for about 4-6 hours (random times). Recently, he is peeing outside of his litter box while in the playpen and nipping/scratching at our daughter when she goes to pick him up at night (to bring him back to his cage). Ordinarily, he is very social, not opposed to being cuddled/held, binkies, flops, etc. We inquired about neutering and were informed he needs to be 16 weeks old. Need advice on how we can “nip” these habits until then. Is it hormones? He needs to be picked up to be transported from cage to playpen (and vice versa). He isn’t opposed to being picked up from cage to playpen but is from playpen to cage. The random peeing and nipping started about a week ago and seems to escalate at night. I was thinking perhaps he needs to go “to bed” earlier? It is very upsetting to our daughter (15 yo) who cherishes him. My husband and I both work from home and are the ones that supervise his roaming time throughout the day (Mon-Fri). We do not pick him up during the day when she is at school and simply close the playpen door whenever he retreats to eat/drink/poop or when we have to leave. Is there a technique she can use at night (or in general) when picking him up that won’t make him angry? Thank you

 

[Hermelin]

Distract him with some food/treats and make him come in a position that is easy to pick up. So it’s nothing scary for him.

When he’s in the arms give him a little pellets when he’s calm and not moving. Which will teach him to be still in the arms, give it randomly later.

Most rabbit that are active, dosen’t like going to the cage. So it’s better make it something positive for them.

 

[Blue eyes]

The problem you describe is pretty common with owners of young rabbits. Baby rabbit are typically very docile and don't protest being carried about. Almost all adult rabbits do not like being picked up and carried about. Your bun is getting older and it sounds like his hormones could be beginning to kick in. Rabbits can even forget their potty habits when hormones kick in. He knows he's being forced back into his cage and he will protest (and this will harm that relationship).

There is also a danger in carrying a rabbit back and forth because, as he continues to protest -- and probably this will only escalate -- he could squirm or nip and then be either squeezed too tight to prevent him from falling or may actually wiggle out and fall from one's arms.

The ideal arrangement is to have the exercise area attached to (part of) his current cage. It should be a matter of opening the door to allow him to exercise. This is best for a rabbit's sense of security as well. They consider their cage as their haven and they should always have easy access back to their cage --even during "exercise time."

You can read more about this if you scroll down on the following page.

 

[PaulineH]

My spayed female was detesting getting picked up too, when I had to move her. I found that approaching her from above her body helps, rather than having my hands reach for her in front of her face and at her level.

 

[Janiene Quigley]

The problem you describe is pretty common with owners of young rabbits. Baby rabbit are typically very docile and don't protest being carried about. Almost all adult rabbits do not like being picked up and carried about. Your bun is getting older and it sounds like his hormones could be beginning to kick in. Rabbits can even forget their potty habits when hormones kick in. He knows he's being forced back into his cage and he will protest (and this will harm that relationship).

There is also a danger in carrying a rabbit back and forth because, as he continues to protest -- and probably this will only escalate -- he could squirm or nip and then be either squeezed too tight to prevent him from falling or may actually wiggle out and fall from one's arms.

The ideal arrangement is to have the exercise area attached to (part of) his current cage. It should be a matter of opening the door to allow him to exercise. This is best for a rabbit's sense of security as well. They consider their cage as their haven and they should always have easy access back to their cage --even during "exercise time."

You can read more about this if you scroll down on the following page.

That was a very helpful article, thank you. I certainly don't want their relationship to be harmed. The room with the playpen is down the hall from my daughters bedroom where his cage is and we can gate it off so he can only go to her room. I'm wondering if we can encourage him "hopping" down the hallway and into his cage with a treat at bed time. Right now, at 10 weeks, he has unlimited access to pellets and Timothy hay. Is there a treat we can introduce him to at his age (e.g. willow sticks or romaine lettuce). Thanks BlueEyes

 

[Janiene Quigley]

Distract him with some food/treats and make him come in a position that is easy to pick up. So it’s nothing scary for him.

When he’s in the arms give him a little pellets when he’s calm and not moving. Which will teach him to be still in the arms, give it randomly later.

Most rabbit that are active, dosen’t like going to the cage. So it’s better make it something positive for them.

I have read that too. Any treats you would recommend for a 10 week old? I read that he shouldn't have any until he is 7 mos old. Currently, he has unlimited pellets (Sherwood Baby) and Timothy Hay. Thanks, Hermelin

 

[Imbrium]

Food/treats are always great bribes... however, I've never had a rabbit that wants to eat while being held or otherwise outside their comfort zone.

Willow sticks are great and don't actually qualify as "treats" so those can definitely be given. Hand-fed pellets can seem treat-like to rabbits if you act like it's something special, lol (even sometimes when they get unlimited pellets).

7 months old is a very conservative suggestion, by the way - most experienced rabbit folks agree on 12 weeks for introducing fresh foods. The important thing is to start with very small amounts and introduce one veggie at a time (that way if something disagrees with him, you'll know what it was). Gradually introduce leafy greens, build up to larger amounts of them and then if everything's going smoothly, you can introduce non-leafy veggies and finally fruits.

 

[Janiene Quigley]

Food/treats are always great bribes... however, I've never had a rabbit that wants to eat while being held or otherwise outside their comfort zone.

Willow sticks are great and don't actually qualify as "treats" so those can definitely be given. Hand-fed pellets can seem treat-like to rabbits if you act like it's something special, lol (even sometimes when they get unlimited pellets).

7 months old is a very conservative suggestion, by the way - most experienced rabbit folks agree on 12 weeks for introducing fresh foods. The important thing is to start with very small amounts and introduce one veggie at a time (that way if something disagrees with him, you'll know what it was). Gradually introduce leafy greens, build up to larger amounts of them and then if everything's going smoothly, you can introduce non-leafy veggies and finally fruits.

Good to know. He does like when we feed him his pellets - that is funny! Sounds like we are a couple of weeks away from the leafy treats so I think we'll start with the pellets. An alternative plan is to try and get him to hop down the hallway to his cage on his own (he loves to follow our Yorkie around!). The playroom where his play pen is/where he roams is just down the hall from our daughter's bedroom where his cage is and we can gate it off so that her bedroom is the only place for him to go. I am hoping once we establish a routine, he will know what to expect and then AFTER he is neutered we can work on him being more comfortable with being picked up. He doesn't mind cuddling, but typically it has to be on HIS terms Thank you for the info, we are learning every day!

 

[Popsicles]

I agree with blue eyes it is best not to have the playpen separate to the cage. I would imagine this is also causing some confusion for him as he wants to pee in his cage like he normally does, and then you shut him off from it and ask him to pee in a presumably different litter tray? No wonder he is having accidents. My current bunny is actually so obsessed with only peeing and pooping in her litter tray that she will hold it in when she goes outside etc until she can get back in.

 

[Janiene Quigley]

Update on Tucker! We took the advice of giving him his pellets as a treat and actually had him hop into his pet carrier to transport to and from cage to playpen and so far so good! Granted it was only last night and this morning but he seems to enjoy the game thus far. Thanks again for everyone's input and suggestions.

 

[Janiene Quigley]

I agree with blue eyes it is best not to have the playpen separate to the cage. I would imagine this is also causing some confusion for him as he wants to pee in his cage like he normally does, and then you shut him off from it and ask him to pee in a presumably different litter tray? No wonder he is having accidents. My current bunny is actually so obsessed with only peeing and pooping in her litter tray that she will hold it in when she goes outside etc until she can get back in.

That's great that you have had such success with litter training - it's certainly a work in progress and we appreciate the tips. We do actually move ALL of his contents from cage to playpen so everything is very familiar to him - essentially just a bigger space with freedom to roam (while supervised). Fortunately, he has had very few accidents with peeing thus far and, for the most part, seems to go in his litter box. Thanks, Popsicles!

 

[cwebster]

We pick up our bunnies in a towel, wrapping them up like a “ bunny burrito.” They seem to like that and are not likely to resist. Plus we reward their going back into their cage each day with their very favorite treat ( small piece of dried apple ring).