Litter Training

[Milyvan]

Dusty - whom I've discovered is a Rex Harlequin (but I still think may have a touch of lion in her due to the fur around her sweet face) - is perfectly pad trained. How difficult would it be to switch her to litter training? What would be the best way to work with her towards this? I'm very much a softie and don't believe in discipline nearly as much as positive enforcement - especially as she's already a sweetness. (She was a shelter rescue and seems to remember there's worse places than free-run of my bedroom.)

All suggestions are welcome and thanks for the great site! Lagomorph love to all and Hoppy New Year, too! TY ---Michell

 

[JBun]

By pad trained, do you mean puppy pad?

 

[jamesedwardwaller]

Dusty - whom I've discovered is a Rex Harlequin (but I still think may have a touch of lion in her due to the fur around her sweet face) - is perfectly pad trained. How difficult would it be to switch her to litter training? What would be the best way to work with her towards this? I'm very much a softie and don't believe in discipline nearly as much as positive enforcement - especially as she's already a sweetness. (She was a shelter rescue and seems to remember there's worse places than free-run of my bedroom.)

All suggestions are welcome and thanks for the great site! Lagomorph love to all and Hoppy New Year, too! TY ---Michell

--I was told along time ago to use timothy/orchard grasses in the poop box,--this allows them to eat and do their business at the same time--this has worked out very well with the understanding that the box gets cleaned regularly,,--sometimes a good poopbox makes for a sleeper--please donot use clay,or scented woods--medical problems will arise,--sincerely james waller :inlove::bunnybutt:et::bunny22:

 

[Blue eyes]

Dusty - whom I've discovered is a Rex Harlequin (but I still think may have a touch of lion in her due to the fur around her sweet face) - is perfectly pad trained. How difficult would it be to switch her to litter training? What would be the best way to work with her towards this? I'm very much a softie and don't believe in discipline nearly as much as positive enforcement - especially as she's already a sweetness. (She was a shelter rescue and seems to remember there's worse places than free-run of my bedroom.)

All suggestions are welcome and thanks for the great site! Lagomorph love to all and Hoppy New Year, too! TY ---Michell

Positive reinforcement is the only thing that works with rabbits anyway, so you are right on the money.

If she is trained to go on a pad, I'd suggest getting her a decent size litterbox and placing her pad in the box and put the box where her pad usually is. Hopefully this will make an easy transition. As she regularly goes on the pad in the box, then you can add some litter on top of the pad. Gradually add more litter. Eventually you should be able to ease away from the pad altogether and use just the litter.

Choosing the right litter is also important. No clay, clumping or scented litters. No pine or cedar (unless the pine is kiln-dried). Some favorites here on RO are wood pellets. They are inexpensive and odor-absorbing. A 40lb bag is only about $5-$7 (depending on where you live).

I also put hay in my litter box, but since your bunny isn't used to hay on her pad, I don't know if that would be a good idea.. at least at this point.

 

[PaGal]

You may want to keep her in limited space as you are transitioning her to a litter.

 

[ladysown]

why do you want to switch her to a litter box rather than a pad? Just being curious.

 

[Milyvan]

Thank-you to the great replies!

I do mean pads as in actually hospital pads and would like to transition her for a couple of reasons but mostly (selfishly) the pads look less clean so that when I have the rare visitor I feel inclined to apologize & explain. Besides, I think it may be slightly more cost effective and possibly more healthy.

I was actually considering using Yesterday's News (or a similar recycled newspaper litter). I've not only had great success in the past with it - but I never had a bunny companion before - but also use the dirty litter for compost. (And it should be ok if she inadvertently chews on a piece if she misses her snack while pooping, right?) I do know with recycled newspaper litter there's no concerns regarding the dust from clay-type litters, and since she breathes so close to the ground I appreciate that.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. I know I'll definitely use the "pad in the box w/ gradual litter" and "snack with poop" methods. (I actually do currently usually give her a bit of carrot or collard green when I see her going as I'd read they 'refill as they empty' at some sites.)

I appreciate your input greatly and am compelled to say this is a wonderful site! This is my first bunny friend -but what a sweet companion she is- so if I ask a silly question occasionally please know it's sincere. Thank-you all again! :bunnysuit:

 

[JBun]

I agree that the best way would be to start with the pad in the litter box, then slowly start adding in some litter.

Paper pellet or wood pellet litter is good. I personally like the wood pellet litter and find it controls smells well. It's also pretty low cost if you get the plain wood pellets(no accelerants or anything added, or cedar, black walnut) from home improvement stores, or wood pellet horse bedding from feed stores. Though the pet store stuff is fine too, just more expensive.

Some buns don't like the feel of it on their feet though, so I put a layer of hay over it, so it's a bit softer, plus having hay in the litter box helps encourage them to poop in the box while they eat. I put the layer of hay over, then I put a pile of hay in a corner they don't pee in. Some people will put a hay rack above the litter box.

 

[Blue eyes]

I used to use Yesterdays News unscented before I found out about the wood pellets (on this site). I thought the Yesterdays News did a good job too. The pellets look just the same but happen to cost much less. The two types are comparable, but I do believe the wood pellets work slightly better on odor control. They can be put in a compost pile also.

The choice is yours.

 

[Milyvan]

J-Bun and all,

Again thank-you for the info. I did not know I could buy wood pellets at the feed store (and there's one close to us). That'd be perfect if I can gently transition her.
This is becoming a bit more of a concern as I've just accepted a silver/white lop female :runningrabbit:to join my beloved Dusty. I'm with her 90% but a friendly girl might make brief separations easier for her?
I am prepared for the additional responsibility...including er kits and er small vet # on fridge for my room-mate....but think she'd benefit from a friend.
Thoughts, please and thank-you. ---Michell

 

[Blue eyes]

Is your current girl already spayed? I assume so since you got her from a rescue.
What about this new girl? Is she also spayed?
Have they met?
Rabbits don't just automatically get along. Some won't ever get along. They usually need to go through a bonding process. (Though there is the very rare occasion of getting along from the start.)
If your girl has already assumed 'ownership' of her new space, she may not accept any newcomers into her perceived territory.

 

[Milyvan]

Blue Eyes,
Actually, unfortunately, neither are fixed. I wanted to with my girl "Dusty" but couldn't afford that and the electric bill. (Heck, my bunny ER fund is at $10 right now.)

That's why we went assured both are female. I do realize they may not immediately become the friends I hope/forsee and am prepared for a transition period. Knowing Dus:big kiss:ty's personality and what this lady say about hers, I honestly believe the period of adjustment will be fairly short. Worst case they can choose separate corners.

I honestly don't believe it'll be like that. (I'm prepared in case it is, however.) But I certainly don't believe it'll be a long issue. In fact, I feel like someone is less concerned about others rather than causing distress.

Apologies if I'm wrong.

 

[Milyvan]

I'll post how it goes, ok? I may end up needing more advice....

 

[Blue eyes]

What are the ages of both girls?

 

[Blue eyes]

I hope it works out. And please do post.
I'm not sure if you are aware (...from what you posted "worst case they can choose separate corners") but worst case for rabbits who don't get along is vicious, bloody fighting that can be lethal.

I certainly hope it doesn't come to that, but it sounded as if you had not before heard that rabbits can be vicious. I don't want you to be unaware that you may need to intervene during introductions if they go sour.

 

[Milyvan]

Ok, Dusty is 5 months and the adopted Lillith will be almost 8 months. And by "separate corners" I meant I've got 2 smaller cages (as opposed to an ideally larger one) where they can be separated humanely if necessary. I'd prefer they can be free-roam with me, however.
I appreciate your concerns but I'm not ignorant of possible complications. (I also know a "negative mommy leads to negative chillun's".)
I'm truly looking for ways to make my bunnies' life happier for both of us.

 

[Blue eyes]

No worries. The 'opposite corners' comment got me wondering, but now I see what you meant. We do have visitors come on the forum who assume that all rabbits get along regardless. Some folks just aren't aware that such cuddly-looking critters can be so feisty.

I look forward to seeing how your bunnies do.

 

[Milyvan]

Blue Eyes,

Cool and actually ty for the concern as I can see where someone might not think these cuddly "timid" (Ha! As if Dusty's timid around me! She's quite clear, in fact, about what she wants. She has me trained quite well.) sweetnesses could become territorial and vicious. It's good to look out. :flowerskiss:

 

[Imbrium]

Wood pellets = win. Most of the ones sold at a feed store are pine, but they're kiln-dried so they're bunny-safe. It's $5-8 for a 40 lb bag, which beats the pants off of Yesterdays News!

While bunnies don't *have* to have a bonded companion, most seem to prefer having a friend of their own species... however, they'd BOTH need to be spayed in order to safely bond them and have them live together. If you call around to shelters/rabbit rescues in your area, one of them may be able to point you towards a low-cost spay option or tell you about a spay/neuter clinic in your area that does rabbits .

 

[Beeliz]

I just changed my litter box from shavings to carefresh,the recycled soft litter..My boy had no problem switcjing,seeing as was going in his 'box' either way...but this carefresh is amazing,and has no odor!!