Help with catching runaway rabbit

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I just spotted today red dot on his nose. So far he's been fine, but I am worried now. Is it true that, if wild rabbits aren't near the area, the odds of mosquito transmitting myxomatosis is low? And that not every bite means illness? I read it somewhere, so after seeing this red dot just need some hope.

Area he was at was well mostly urban so I doubt any wild rabbits are there so that's why I'm asking. Please try to zoom in into photos, he wouldn't come out once he noticed I got worried.
 

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Also, another question since I see nobody has answer on this one. We don't know Bear's ***, but any tips for buying him either fence or cage or both and bonding him with Vito are appreciated. We are hoping for the best, that he is not sick, so are looking into cages and fences for play pens in hope of getting most affordable equipment for the bunny. I have read it needs to be on neutral teritorry but I don't have that. Can I clean part of Vito's territory and try to pull it off in my room?

Another question: is air conditioning safe for bunnies? I desperately need one for my room and am considering getting movable one to avoid getting maintanence guys in my room. Also all fixed ones are too strong for my 12 m2 room. So yea, is such air conditioning safe? They will be free roaming, both, Vito already is and Bear will be given chance to freely enjoy my room too, if things go well. I just need to know it's good for everyone :)

I'll upload few more photos from phone but so far this is my current dilemma.
 
Also, another question since I see nobody has answer on this one. We don't know Bear's ***, but any tips for buying him either fence or cage or both and bonding him with Vito are appreciated. We are hoping for the best, that he is not sick, so are looking into cages and fences for play pens in hope of getting most affordable equipment for the bunny. I have read it needs to be on neutral teritorry but I don't have that. Can I clean part of Vito's territory and try to pull it off in my room?

Another question: is air conditioning safe for bunnies? I desperately need one for my room and am considering getting movable one to avoid getting maintanence guys in my room. Also all fixed ones are too strong for my 12 m2 room. So yea, is such air conditioning safe? They will be free roaming, both, Vito already is and Bear will be given chance to freely enjoy my room too, if things go well. I just need to know it's good for everyone :)

I'll upload few more photos from phone but so far this is my current dilemma.
Cages are no good, they are all too small. You need to take him/her to a rabbit vet first and have him/her neutered. Don't think about bonding until 8 weeks after both have been neutered. Aircon is safe but make sure they can't get to any wires and they can get out of the draft.
 
Cages are no good, they are all too small. You need to take him/her to a rabbit vet first and have him/her neutered. Don't think about bonding until 8 weeks after both have been neutered. Aircon is safe but make sure they can't get to any wires and they can get out of the draft.
Vito has a cage that is large enough for him, but the doors of the cage are always open. He strictly eats and drinks his water there and it is his most private place I can't enter like ever (except clean what he strongly dislikes). I thought of getting one for Bear as well in case he ends up being fine, just so he also gets his base and savehouse :) . So far Bear didn't reach his sexual maturity and we don't even know his *** yet, need to wait until quaranteen is over to make sure.
So could I just determine a part of the room for this new guy and let him be in that area for period until his sexual maturity and those 8 weeks? Or what suggestion do you have?
About draft, of course. End goal is them both being happily free in my room that is bunny prooved. I only keep cage in order to localize the mess as much as possible (and really, Vito's toilet and hay holder is on two sides of his cage so it works).
 
Vito has a cage that is large enough for him, but the doors of the cage are always open. He strictly eats and drinks his water there and it is his most private place I can't enter like ever (except clean what he strongly dislikes). I thought of getting one for Bear as well in case he ends up being fine, just so he also gets his base and savehouse :) . So far Bear didn't reach his sexual maturity and we don't even know his *** yet, need to wait until quaranteen is over to make sure.
So could I just determine a part of the room for this new guy and let him be in that area for period until his sexual maturity and those 8 weeks? Or what suggestion do you have?
About draft, of course. End goal is them both being happily free in my room that is bunny prooved. I only keep cage in order to localize the mess as much as possible (and really, Vito's toilet and hay holder is on two sides of his cage so it works).
Great that you plan to have them free roam at least in one room eventually. Yes, keep them well apart until 8 weeks after neutering and meanwhile do some research on bonding. Good luck!
 
Great that you plan to have them free roam at least in one room eventually. Yes, keep them well apart until 8 weeks after neutering and meanwhile do some research on bonding. Good luck!
8 weeks apart after neutering? So he/she needs to wait until sexual maturity in cage, then to be neutered and then 8 more weeks in cage? It's cruel, there must be a better solution! Can I maybe put fence in my room to keep him in one area of it? If he can't free roam at least not to be in cage all the time. Please, nobody I know has extra full room just for him so there must be a plan b.
 
8 weeks apart after neutering? So he/she needs to wait until sexual maturity in cage, then to be neutered and then 8 more weeks in cage? It's cruel, there must be a better solution! Can I maybe put fence in my room to keep him in one area of it? If he can't free roam at least not to be in cage all the time. Please, nobody I know has extra full room just for him so there must be a plan b.
No, don’t keep them in cages! If you only have one room, yes, divide the room but leave a bit of space between pens so they can’t hurt each other.
 
I had two male rabbits at one point. One of them, Storm, had been neutered earlier, so i was waiting on the other, Lümi. We couldn't quite wait the 8 weeks because we were moving, so that bond ended up being rushed. It wasn't the smoothest sailing and it couldn't exactly solidify. Their bond broke soon after moving.
So definetly wait 8 weeks after neutering whenever possible. It's not a guideline meant to drag out the bonding, it's meant to keep both bondables safe and increase the success.
As for the free roam time.
A while after Lümi had passed, we got Storm a new friend. A ladybun named Iris. She went for her spay and i waited the 8 weeks no matter what it took.
In the meantime, she had a base cage next to Storm's base cage, some good centineters apart so that they couldn't nip each other. They took turns free-roaming the room. I kept a close eye whenever they were near each other's bases.
When Iris had fully recovered from the spay, i also began switching her into Storm's base and vice versa. His had more space, and it was also meant to be the future common area, so i got her smell and existence to be a part of it with the swappings. I managed to find the neutralest space we had- the bathroom floor.
That bond went much smoother. I was patient. I did base sawps. They took turns roaming the same spaces. Iris had enough time pre-bonding to stop being hormonal. After their bond had solidified, i removed Iris' base and they got to freeroam the room together. That bond went on strong until Storm didn't return from the hospital.
So definetly be patient and take it slow whenever you can. Speed is not worth risking a long-lasting bond.
 
I had two male rabbits at one point. One of them, Storm, had been neutered earlier, so i was waiting on the other, Lümi. We couldn't quite wait the 8 weeks because we were moving, so that bond ended up being rushed. It wasn't the smoothest sailing and it couldn't exactly solidify. Their bond broke soon after moving.
So definetly wait 8 weeks after neutering whenever possible. It's not a guideline meant to drag out the bonding, it's meant to keep both bondables safe and increase the success.
As for the free roam time.
A while after Lümi had passed, we got Storm a new friend. A ladybun named Iris. She went for her spay and i waited the 8 weeks no matter what it took.
In the meantime, she had a base cage next to Storm's base cage, some good centineters apart so that they couldn't nip each other. They took turns free-roaming the room. I kept a close eye whenever they were near each other's bases.
When Iris had fully recovered from the spay, i also began switching her into Storm's base and vice versa. His had more space, and it was also meant to be the future common area, so i got her smell and existence to be a part of it with the swappings. I managed to find the neutralest space we had- the bathroom floor.
That bond went much smoother. I was patient. I did base sawps. They took turns roaming the same spaces. Iris had enough time pre-bonding to stop being hormonal. After their bond had solidified, i removed Iris' base and they got to freeroam the room together. That bond went on strong until Storm didn't return from the hospital.
So definetly be patient and take it slow whenever you can. Speed is not worth risking a long-lasting bond.
I get it but I can't put Vito into cage, just can't. It would hurt our bond... Might need to divide the room and leave some space up, but this sounds just so sad... The only sadder thing is knowing there's nobody I know who could or would have conditions to do it the way you said... I need to find a way to explain it because I got a feeling if it takes too long my parents will insisst I give poor newcommer away...
 
It's hard to give specific pointers in how to house the two more fairly if we don't have any photo material of what their setups look like.
I understand your struggles. I went through the same thing. I know it hurts to not give them both the same amount of space. But for a short while, it might be needed for the longer better future. And perhaps you have a slight confusion between cage and base? Nobody's saying you should keep Vito in a cage. He could still freeroam during the day. Maybe you can figure out something like what i have pictured below? 20230514_160022.jpg
An acceptably sized area (though on the smaller side) for the night, and freeroaming when you're paying attention? Ideally you could figure something similar for both buns. If not, then the next best thing would be to rotate the buns between the bases until they can be fully bonded.
 
It's hard to give specific pointers in how to house the two more fairly if we don't have any photo material of what their setups look like.
I understand your struggles. I went through the same thing. I know it hurts to not give them both the same amount of space. But for a short while, it might be needed for the longer better future. And perhaps you have a slight confusion between cage and base? Nobody's saying you should keep Vito in a cage. He could still freeroam during the day. Maybe you can figure out something like what i have pictured below? View attachment 65042
An acceptably sized area (though on the smaller side) for the night, and freeroaming when you're paying attention? Ideally you could figure something similar for both buns. If not, then the next best thing would be to rotate the buns between the bases until they can be fully bonded.
Thank you. My Vito has chosen for himself a storage area of my sofa style bed and also regularely jumps on and off my bed. I could probably add roof to the pen area for the newcommer but couldn't prevent Vito from doing what he does and is used to... Well thank you for all the help, we need to take it step by step and the process will go as it has to go. Need to keep track both of them and of parents so well... Will keep you updated :) For now, he is happy he can free roam an hour a day in my mom's room. Fingers crossed he's alright once 14 days are up. Got like 4-5 left :)
 
If one rabbit is already fixed, usually the minimum to wait for bonding post neuter for the other rabbit, is 4 weeks. This is because it usually takes this long for hormones to have faded enough that they won't cause problems like excessive humping, that can agitate the other rabbit and lead to a fight. But it can sometimes take up to 8 weeks.

So if both rabbits aren't seeming calm around each other through pen bars pre bonding, or at initial introductions there's some tension, waiting the full 8 weeks post neuter is likely the best choice. I've done it as early as 4 weeks, but this rabbit was very chill and his hormones had calmed down enough to make it work out with the doe he was being bonded to. It really all depends on each individual rabbits recovery, as well as personality.

As suggested, it's a good idea to read up on bonding during this waiting period, so you have the knowledge you need and a flexible plan ready for the bonding. Also have a good understanding of the signs of escalating aggression, as this will help you know when to intervene and possibly permanently separate, before things escalate into a full fight. Which once it occurs, usually means there's little to no chance the rabbits will successfully bond. So you really want to prevent this from happening if possible.

https://rabbitsindoors.weebly.com/bonding-bunnies.html
https://cottontails-rescue.org.uk/information/bonding-bunnies/
https://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bonding_rabbits_together
https://www.rabbitsonline.net/threads/when-to-intervene-rabbit-bonding.104770/
 
Sorry I didn't share sooner but he died two weeks ago. We were given antibiotic for ear mite and he shook his ears so badly that he spilled it over his fur. Then licked. Then didn't eat whole night which we failed to notice as he was in his cage in the living room. Next morning I started massaging his tummy and did it for hours and hours and he still wouldn't eat anything but verselle laga cuni food and piece of fresh grass. Every time I would manage to push one of the poops out he would start battling me to get out and fall on bed. One last time he fell badly. And in shock. And I again made one last mistake of trying to take him to vet. He died on his way to vet.

People, I feel so so sorry and guilty, honestly my mistakes caused his death. He was like 6-7 months old, but had life that neither of us would ever want for their bunny. I didn't give him probiotic at all. I didn't take him to vet that day. I made a chain of horrible mistakes. But he was loved and safe, we were not mature enough for him.

My Vito has been great support, sleeping peacefully next to my foot to being there for me. He was super energetic and I just felt it was Bear telling us through him that he is happy and free now.
He wasn't happy in cage most of the time, he missed his freedom and I hope he has found it now.

So yea, that is the end of the story, I can't reply any further, I gotta move on. I just know I did my best and if I knew anybody who would have done better I would have given him to that person. I am planning on recording documentary about neglected/thrown away rabbits on Serbian. I wanna interview people, show how fragile they are and how they can't survive where people usually drop them. I want to do my best for prevention, instead of consequences.
It won't bring him back, but at this point, I no longer want it. He is happy, peaceful and providing love and joy to somebody's bunny in need. His energy didn't die, it's here for us, memory is harsh reminder to be aware of your own actions and consequences. So yea I'm sorry and hopeful nobody will ever repeat my mistakes again. Antibiotic that is not for inner use should never be licked. Probiotic always goes with antibiotic. Check on them before bed time, as often as you can. There are less invasive ways to help rabbit diagestion start or take him to vet immidiately. And if in shock, never ever take him on the street, it's even more scary. Most importantly, every crisis should be run by knowledge and not panic. So yea...
 
Also two non castrated rabbits can get along if their personality matches. Or I could have divided the space between them. Anyway, he's gone so too late to think of it. But it could have worked maybe...
 
Also two non castrated rabbits can get along if their personality matches. Or I could have divided the space between them. Anyway, he's gone so too late to think of it. But it could have worked maybe...
Sorry for your loss. It’s never easy to lose your bun and you did try and he was happy with you. And loved. Rest in that! 💔💔🙏🙏
 

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