My doe which is a new mother just had babies about a week ago she had five and after couple days to have died and I've noticed that the babies butts and bellies keep getting modded up with lots of poop it looks gross what should I do is this normal I don't want any more to die thank you
Help baby bunnies
- Thread starter Rachele
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No it isn't normal.
In a proper nest this should not happen, there should be enough hay to absorb liquids and fur to keep them warm. There should not be much poop.
How does the nest look like? Is it ok, dry hay (replace soiled stuff - I've heard of does that use the nestbox as toilet) and the kits are warm and nicely covered in fur? Are their bellies full?
It is necessary that they have a warm nest, if they are cold their digestion doesn't work properly. keep them warm and dry. If something is wrong with the nest, fix it, if the doe does something with the nest she shouldn't, remove the nest and put it back in twice a day for feeding. Same if weather and circumstances get the nest cold or wet.
Another issue that would effect the whole litter would be Mastitis,infected mammary glands and the milk gets contaminated. Check the doe, are her nipples red, swollen? Google for symptoms, I have no personal experience with that. It's not always visible, if it's that there are not many options, getting the doe treated by a vet asap and hope that the kits pull through, or handfeeding the kits. My hopes for already struggling kits wouldn't be very high.
There sure could be other reasons, but that is what I can think of right now.
Good luck.
In a proper nest this should not happen, there should be enough hay to absorb liquids and fur to keep them warm. There should not be much poop.
How does the nest look like? Is it ok, dry hay (replace soiled stuff - I've heard of does that use the nestbox as toilet) and the kits are warm and nicely covered in fur? Are their bellies full?
It is necessary that they have a warm nest, if they are cold their digestion doesn't work properly. keep them warm and dry. If something is wrong with the nest, fix it, if the doe does something with the nest she shouldn't, remove the nest and put it back in twice a day for feeding. Same if weather and circumstances get the nest cold or wet.
Another issue that would effect the whole litter would be Mastitis,infected mammary glands and the milk gets contaminated. Check the doe, are her nipples red, swollen? Google for symptoms, I have no personal experience with that. It's not always visible, if it's that there are not many options, getting the doe treated by a vet asap and hope that the kits pull through, or handfeeding the kits. My hopes for already struggling kits wouldn't be very high.
There sure could be other reasons, but that is what I can think of right now.
Good luck.
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My doe looks clean and healthy and the nest box is full of hay I changed it just in case and still hapening the babies otherwise look good growing big round bellies just keep pooping yellowish thick poop all over theirselves.. I keep cleaning them off
... it's 93 degree F outside so I wouldn't think they would be cold
... it's 93 degree F outside so I wouldn't think they would be cold
No, they sure wouldn't be cold, but that's quite hot. I would consider giving them a bottle with cold water in the nest - standing in one corner, kits normally wiggle into their goldilocks zone between too hot and too cold. Or bring them inside during the heat of the day. No idea if that can cause this problems - I wouldn't expect that all kits are effected equaly, but many do not breed in that heat.
The babies are pooping yellowish thick poop all over theirselves? That is not good. That sounds like they may have enteritis, which is inflamation of the gut, which is usually caused by something like a bad bacteria in their, same as when a human gets salmonella. They may need some medication from the vet. How old are they?
I think you should read this.
Bacterial and Mucoid enteritis
http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/GI_diseases/Generalities/Enteritis_en.htm
I think you should read this.
Bacterial and Mucoid enteritis
http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/GI_diseases/Generalities/Enteritis_en.htm
The doe got out of her cage and in with a buck on accident :/ but that' a good idea about the water bottle .... There in a big hutch under a big oak tree with plenty of Breeze so I'm sure it's not quite hot but it is getting hot
The pictures don' t look like what mine has going on
Changing the brand of pellet yes could definitely have something to do with it. Everything they eat could be the problem. If you switch pellets with adults in can cause problems and babies are more sensitive than adults.
Prietler's advice for giving water is very good. Because as soon as babies start eating dry food they need water to go with that. Especially if its hot outside, dryfood without water would be dehydrating.
Did you give them any other food besides pellets? I wonder what would make poo yellow?
Because don't give them anything like carrots or lettuce if they are very very young.
I only give babies hay, pellets and water until they are 4 weeks.
Then I introduce them to eating greens by giving them one or two blades of grass each... then if they don't get poopy butts... the next day they get three or four blades of grass.... so I introduce greens very gradually. By the time they are 6 weeks they mine are eating very small portions of grass/greens/and maybe a shaving off a carrot. By eight weeks mine are grazing along side the mom eating her greens.
But some people don't believe in introducing greens until they are like- 8 weeks old.
I do it sooner than that but very gradually, small, small amounts.
Prietler's advice for giving water is very good. Because as soon as babies start eating dry food they need water to go with that. Especially if its hot outside, dryfood without water would be dehydrating.
Did you give them any other food besides pellets? I wonder what would make poo yellow?
Because don't give them anything like carrots or lettuce if they are very very young.
I only give babies hay, pellets and water until they are 4 weeks.
Then I introduce them to eating greens by giving them one or two blades of grass each... then if they don't get poopy butts... the next day they get three or four blades of grass.... so I introduce greens very gradually. By the time they are 6 weeks they mine are eating very small portions of grass/greens/and maybe a shaving off a carrot. By eight weeks mine are grazing along side the mom eating her greens.
But some people don't believe in introducing greens until they are like- 8 weeks old.
I do it sooner than that but very gradually, small, small amounts.
They are about a week old mom is still nursing them but I've taken them inside so I can keep a closer eye on them should I keep having her nurse them or try to bottle feed them if so what would they eat
When babies are that young and having problems like that I would actually go to the vet.
That looks like it could be diarrhea to me and diarrhea in rabbits is treated as emergency situation.
If that is diarrhea usually what actually kills any animal is the dehydration it causes.
I think I would put some pedialyte-infant formula electrolytes in their water.
And if they aren't nursing from the mom or drinking— so no liquids going into them— I might think about syringing/forcing some electrolytes into them—but I would have to research how much etc...
—So another reason to go to a vet.
A vet will probably give a cocci and enteritis medication to them... Plus a form of hydration.
Below is an excerpt from a Dana Krempels PHD vet sciences department paper...
http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/poop.html
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
That looks like it could be diarrhea to me and diarrhea in rabbits is treated as emergency situation.
If that is diarrhea usually what actually kills any animal is the dehydration it causes.
I think I would put some pedialyte-infant formula electrolytes in their water.
And if they aren't nursing from the mom or drinking— so no liquids going into them— I might think about syringing/forcing some electrolytes into them—but I would have to research how much etc...
—So another reason to go to a vet.
A vet will probably give a cocci and enteritis medication to them... Plus a form of hydration.
Below is an excerpt from a Dana Krempels PHD vet sciences department paper...
http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/poop.html
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
- Common Causes of Runny Stool in Infant and Juvenile Rabbits
- Weaning Too Young
If the bunny suffering from runny stool is a baby, how old is he? If younger than eight weeks, and no longer with his mother, his runny stool problem may be due to his being weaned too young. Many pet stores will (illegally) sell rabbits younger than eight weeks of age (some as young as four weeks), because that is when they are still "cute" and more apt to be purchased on a whim. Sadly, many of these babies are doomed to succumb to intestinal disorders.
Unlike most mammals, baby rabbits have a sterile lower intestine until they begin to eat solid food at the age of 3-4 weeks. It is during this time that their intestines are at their most vulnerable: the babies need their mother's milk, which changes pH and provides vital antibodies that help the baby gradually adjust to his changing intestinal environment, to protect them against newly introduced microorganisms. Without mother's milk, a baby starting to eat solid food is highly susceptible to bacterial enteritis (inflammation of the intestinal lining), which can cause fatal diarrhea. Runny stool in a baby rabbit should be considered a life-threatening emergency, and anyone seeing this should contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian immediately, and consult the Emergency Treatment Protocol for Diarrhea in Infant and Juvenile Rabbits to be well-informed about questions to ask the vet.
- Intestial Parasites
As mentioned before, coccidial infection is common in some areas, and some vets will simply treat a baby rabbit's diarrhea as coccidia, even without a fecal test. Common antibiotics used to treat coccidia include Albon (sulfadimethoxine) and the potentiated sulfas, such as Trimethoprim Sulfa (TMZ) or Bactrim. However, we have found a more recently developed drug, ponazuril to be far superior to the aforementioned sulfa antibiotics. It eliminates the parasites in a matter of days, rather than weeks.
________________________
copyright Dana Krempels, Ph.D. July 2007
An infant lagomorph presenting with runny stool will often be close to death within hours of onset if the condition is not treated immediately and aggressively. Such animals succumb primarily to dehydration, but inflammation and shock are often contributing factors. We have used the treatments below to successfully save infant and juvenile lagomorphs who were close to death from diarrhea.
All treatments below should be undertaken only under the advice and supervision of a licensed veterinarian. Find an experienced rabbit veterinarian at www.rabbit.org/vets While the author recognizes that it is best to prescribe medications for known pathogens, she has seen enough young lagomorphs quickly die from dehydration and other complications of diarrhea to realize that it is not always possible to identify the causative agent in time. A very sick baby rabbit may have no time to wait for a culture and sensitivity test, or even a fecal exam. For this reason, I recommend that the following emergency treatments be provided as a lifesaving measure. (If a baby rabbit is dying anyway, then these things may give the only chance of survival).
Among the most common causes of diarrhea in young rabbits are Escherichia coli and Eimeria spp. The treatments below are meant to combat primarily these two agents, and are shown in the order that we administer them to effect the greatest preventive and palliative care possible.
KEEP THE BABY WARM AND QUIET.
A dehydrated baby rabbit can easily become hypothermic, which is not only life-threatening, but can interfere with the efficacy of the treatments below. Towel-wrapped warm water bottles or bags are a safe source of heat.
1. To arrest diarrhea quickly (of critical importance): Imodium (loperamide) at 1 mg/kg Q 4-8 hours (depending on severity). This is available over the counter at most pharmacies.
2. Hydration: Subcutaneous Lactated Ringers Solution (10ml/kg total in 2-3 boli over 24 hours. This can be increased if the diarrhea is severe, to prevent dehydration and keep electrolytes at normal levels. Consult your veterinarian about the proper dosage.
3. Antibiotics: a. ciprofloxacin at 20 mg/kg Q 12 hours – PO (oral administration) only. Oral administration provides immediate contact with intestinal pathogens that injections will not handle as quickly or directly. Although there may be some concern about potential fluoroquinolones’ potential interference with normal cartilage development in juvenile mammals, (1) we have seen no evidence of this in the many lagomorphs we have treated with these antibiotics and (2) if the choice is a possible cartilage problem or death, the choice seems clear. b. metronidazole at 20mg/kg Q 12 hours – PO only; see above.
4. Anticoccidial medication: 1. Ponazuril/toltrazuril (20mg/kg Q 24 hours) OR 2. Trimethoprim sulfa or Albon (sulfadimethoxine) (Note: We have found that ponazuril (Marquis by Bayer) is far superior to the sulfa or potentiated sulfa antibiotics for killing coccidia. My own (unpublished) data show complete parasite eradication (as determined from sequential fecal exams showingprogressively more shrunken and vacuolated sporocysts) in three days of treatment.
5. Helminthicidal medication: Panacur (fenbendazole) at 20mg/kg Q 24 hours (Note: albendazole has a higher radiomimetic toxicity than fenbendazole or oxibendazole, has been associated with acute, fatal toxicity in rabbits. It is NOT recommended for this species.) 6. Recommended analgesia (pain relief): 1. pediatric simethicone suspension (0.5 – 1.0 cc Q 6-8 hours) for gas relief 2. sulfasalazine (30 - 50 mg suspended in clean water Q 12 hours) 3. barium suspension (0.5-1.0 ml Q 12 hours) (also helps arrest diarrhea) 4. meloxicam (0.1 – 0.3 mg/kg Q 24 hours) OR 5. Banamine (flunixin meglumine) (not both! Use only one NSAID!)
6. Tramadol (2-6mg/kg Q 12 hours) (Note: If Banamine is used, famotidine (antacid) is also recommended, but should not be administered for an hour after other medications have been given.) 7. General immune support and bacteriocidal action: colostrum (contents of 2 capsules dissolved in about 10cc pasteurized goat milk). Administer small amounts over several hours, about 1-2 cc at a time, or as much as the baby will accept.
8. Absorption/adsorption of intestinal toxins: Questran (cholestyramine resin) - by prescription at most major pharmacies DO NOT ADMINISTER THIS AGENT FOR AT LEAST ONE HOUR AFTER ALL OTHER ORAL MEDICATIONS HAVE BEEN GIVEN, AS IT MAY INTERFERE WITH OR INACTIVATE THE OTHER DRUGS. Suspend about ¼ teaspoon in 10 ml of water, and allow to hydrate for approximately 10 minutes. Give 1-2 cc of this suspension every 12 hours, but DO NOT give it within an hour of other medications, as it may absorb them. DO NOT give any other medications for 4-6 hours after Questran dose, as Questran will continue to absorb/adsorb substances from the gut lumen, reducing or eliminating their efficacy. Updated on 17 October 2009 For more information, please contact: Dana Krempels, Ph.D. Department of Biology University of Miami Coral Gables, FL 33124 [email protected]
- Weaning Too Young
one of the alive ones seems to be slower and not willing to nurse on mom I think it' too late for them
Edward Jones
Ivory Farms
Pls look into the nest very closely often times afterbirth is left in the nest, as the mother cannot remove it. the afterbirth will mold up a nest and attract flies which will consume all of the babies if the nest is not cleaned of whatever is under the babies. This is what I have experienced within
my litters in the past. Hope you have this under control...
I am Edward Jones of Ivory Farms "FB".
Rachele I'm so sorry for your losses.
If you can't go to the vet— do you have a small 1 ml syringe?
I think you can get them in any drugstore pharmacy or petstore.
Because I think maybe you should syringe 2 ml of electrolytes into the babies. And pedialyte for infants is the best one to use— but if you can't afford it you can make your own.
___________________________
INGREDIENTS FOR DIY PEDIALYTE (for vomiting human babies with diarhea)
2 cups water (boil it first)
1/4 tsp. baking soda (optional – good for upset tummies!)
1/4 tsp low-sodium salt—which has potassium in it which is why it is mentioned in this recipe.
(If you don't have the low-sodiums salt, then replace with sea salt, and if you don't have that just regular salt.
1 tablespoons sugar (don’t use honey as a substitute if your child is under 12 months of age)
Let it cool and then I would syringe 2 ml of the electrolyte solution.
( I've had adult bunnies perk right up after doing this but I have not tried it on younger rabbits)
If you can't go to the vet— do you have a small 1 ml syringe?
I think you can get them in any drugstore pharmacy or petstore.
Because I think maybe you should syringe 2 ml of electrolytes into the babies. And pedialyte for infants is the best one to use— but if you can't afford it you can make your own.
___________________________
INGREDIENTS FOR DIY PEDIALYTE (for vomiting human babies with diarhea)
2 cups water (boil it first)
1/4 tsp. baking soda (optional – good for upset tummies!)
1/4 tsp low-sodium salt—which has potassium in it which is why it is mentioned in this recipe.
(If you don't have the low-sodiums salt, then replace with sea salt, and if you don't have that just regular salt.
1 tablespoons sugar (don’t use honey as a substitute if your child is under 12 months of age)
Let it cool and then I would syringe 2 ml of the electrolyte solution.
( I've had adult bunnies perk right up after doing this but I have not tried it on younger rabbits)
