If I could go back and do it all again perfectly from the start, as you have the oppertunity to do, this is how I'd do it.
1. Desex your rabbits BEFORE you start having problems.
The benefits include:
- Prevention of cancer (bunnies have a huge chance of cancer without it)
- Toilet training is so much easier.
- Agression towards other bunnies and people is almost eliminated.
2. Make them free range bunnies.
I mean why not? check out lennon the bunny on youtube for any help you might need with this (bunnyproofing).
I know it sounds daunting but..
- You'll have super tame bunnies that will never end up rotting away in an outdoor cage because you leave cleaning and care get out of control. (all too common, I think the majority of once well cared for bunnies end up sitting in the backyard in a filthy tiny cage).
3. Bunny proof the backyard and get a dog door.
- Rabbits are far smarter than people give them credit for, it won't take them long to figure it out
- Some time outdoors is good for bunnies because they do need sun and grass is great for their digestive tracts and hocks. Even some indoor carpets can be too harsh for bunny feet.
4. Get yourself a large convered cat litter box. line it with newspaper and fill it to the brim with hay.
- Rabbits naturally toilet whilst they eat, it is normal and safe... try not to think about it haha.
- Keep the litter box indoors so that there are no accidents on the carpet
5. Diet.
- Do not mistake the importance of a good diet from the very begining! There is a good reason rabbits are regarded as exotic pets...
- Make sure your baby bunnies are closer to 8 weeks old when you buy them. Any younger risks their immune system being compromised.
- They'll eat mostly hay (not straw). Alfalfa as babies and Timothy or Oaten as they become adults (depends on availability). Some hay will actually be too rich and will cause problems, including urinary tract infections (I know I sound like an excentric rabbit lady right now but I have learnt the hard way).
- Water should be provided via BOWL not a bottle. Rabbits drink a lot of water and they can't get it from a bottle. Oh! and don't buy into all those rumours about keeping rabbits healthy using vinegar.
- Do yourself a favour and avoid dental diesease at all costs! everything from having the teeth removed and affected tear ducts can be avoided.
- Check out what greens are safe (and those that aren't) and how much to feed online.
- Resist the urge to feed them a whole carrot. Rabbits are pigs, there is no 0ther animal that loves food more but they will suffer for it and vet bills are expensive!
6. Find yourself a rabbit savvy vet.
I used to see this online constantly and after taking my rabbit to what I thought was a rabbit savvy vet I became increasingly frustrated. It became apparent that when a doctor doesn't know what they are doing they will pretend they do as to avoid alarming you. so... what you really need to do is FIND YOURSELF AN EXOTICS VET. They will almost certainly know how to handle rabbit problems.
Other tips:
- poo is the easiest way to know if your bunny is healthy.
- check out what a healthy rabbits urine and faeces look like. There are helpful resources online. They'll teach you some really important stuff including but not limited to the fact rabbits will create and eat some "special" poos or 'cecotropes' and rabbit urine is naturally cloudy or sometimes even red... and GI stasis!
- be aware betacarotine (found in some greens) can cause a rabbits wee to be alarmingly dark... like blood dark. but it's not something to be alarmed about.
- Watch some lennon the bunny.
Regarding your questions:
- Most people will say that males are calmer. However I do think it depends on handling and breed too. I have a mix breed female that is far more geared towards cuddles and being held than our mini lop male. In short, the smaller the rabbit the more skittish and opposed to being picked up it'll be (generally).
- Rabbits are very social creatures. They do love rabbit company, it can help them feel secure. However... You will develop a great bond with just one rabbit. I found this with my rabbit April. If you get two, may as well make them siblings.
- For the love of god no wire flooring haha save yourself the pain (unless it's a meat rabbit that won't live long enough to develop sore hocks) you'll generally only see the wire bottoms in non-pet scenarios. If a cage is a must then lean toward a plastic bottomed one. these are easier to clean. wood will absorb water and other filth with it.
- As for bedding (please note a free range house bunny is much cheaper and easier, you'll only need a litter b0x) a decent layer of newspaper followed by a decent cat litter (dust free as possible, paper based) and then hay.
- it is insanely easy to litter train a desexed rabbit (even intact rabbits are easy.. provided there are no other rabbits around to make them territorial). They do this by themselves almost. they poo and wee where they eat their hay. any accidents can be cleaned using vinegar and water (for wee). rabbit poo can be picked up and put in the litter box.
- I'd also love to suggest getting a flemish giant, not only are larger breeds more docile, they'll also have a harder time being stepped on, crawling under your furniture and being killed by predatory birds etc.
oh and i mean who isn't impressed by a giant tame indoor rabbit or two?
Good luck with your almost bunnies! It really is an incredibly rewarding experience, especially when they can enjoy the couch with you and roam the house like a dog or cat does.
Hopefully there are some helpful suggestions in there for you.
