Hello! New here with lots of annoying newbie questions

[Critterfan87]

I've been kicking around the idea of getting a rabbit (or two) for a year or two now and have pretty much decided to go for it and reward myself with a new furry critter companion for my next birthday (beginning of next year) and so now is time to dig into all the care questions to be sure I'm as prepared as possible.

What's everyone's opinions or experiences with one rabbit or two? Male or female? I'm sure these questions all get asked an annoying number of times, so if y'all'd even take just a moment to link a good relevant thread in answer, I'd be very grateful!

I've got a big yard and can make a nice outdoor area for a large part of the year but will also make up an indoor cage (and attached play area, full free range of the house is probably not possible) for nights and winter. I'm leaning towards something like a hutch for the indoor cage but confused on what is best, wire or solid flooring? Bedding or not? If so, what's best?

How hard are they to litter train and have any good tips or tricks for that?

I've got a couple semi localish friends that breed and show bunnies, so I will probably be getting a young rabbit or two from one of those breeders.

 

[My Bunny Drake]

I have a male. I heard females and males work best. Make sure they are bonded. If they are not visit https://www.ohiohouserabbitrescue.org/bondingbunnies/
to find out how to bond them. If you get two of the same gender they will fight to the death. Spray and neuter your bunnies.

 

[My Bunny Drake]

Also don’t put them on the grass or dirt as they will dig out quickly. Get a cage with a roof. I also got my bunnies from a friend. Check out https://animalrescuenoahsa.wixsite.com/website
for new bunnies!

 

[Velveteen Lop]

It all depends on your rabbit! Many members will tell you to start with one. If your bun seems content by himself, I wouldn't go and ruin his happiness with another bun. If he seems lonely, an ADULT female is best (at least one needs to be fixed, both is preferred), as a baby is considered a 'false' bond.

My Mini Rex's and Velveteen Lops are very easily litter trained. I've had a harder time with my Netherland Dwarfs, but again, it all depends on the rabbit. Adults are easier, as they normally like to only go in one spot. I just place the litter box in the area where they pee the most. More often than not, it works!

The absolute best for rabbit is plain old natural ground. But of course, it might not always be convenient to you. I use pine shavings as bedding, but my favorite is CareFresh, so I buy that when I can afford it. I'm a breeder (all my buns are well cared for, please no need to worry or be concerned for them), so most of my cages are the wire hanging ones (I share this hesitantly, but please be aware my buns all get free time in large pens where they can dig and binky to their hearts content! The only time where they're really in their cage is at night when I cannot supervise) and that works for me, because it makes cleaning of many cages much easier, to just scoop the poop all at once. For you, one with bedding might be best.

I want to invite @Blue eyes here, she's got great info and a wonderful website! Cage recommendations Blue eyes?

 

[Blue eyes]

Thanks @Velveteen Lop

Hello, Critterfan, and welcome to the forum! Glad to hear you are doing your research before getting any rabbits.

I don't see what part of the country you are in -- that will have an effect on whether outdoor housing is convenient or appropriate.

I have a strong leaning toward indoor housing (but have seen some wonderful outdoor set-ups). The reason I prefer indoor housing is that, as I'm sure you've read already, rabbits take tons of patience and time to warm up. That is much more easily accomplished with indoor housing. Whether I'm on the computer or eating a meal or watching TV or reading a book...bunny is always nearby. I may not be directly interacting but that's ok. In bunny's eyes, I'm hanging around and am therefore bonding. It is an easy and convenient way to spend time with a rabbit without having to stand around outside by a hutch in all kinds of weather.

Not sure if I followed you correctly about your thoughts on winter and nights. If you live some place that has harsh winters, and intend to bring bunny indoors, that's fine...BUT it isn't good for a rabbit to be going in and out frequently (or every night). So if bunny comes inside when the temperatures begin to drop, he should remain indoors, day and night, until Spring. He should remain totally indoors all through the winter and then, if you want him outside in Spring, he should remain totally outdoors until the following winter. Just wanted to clarify that in case I misunderstood. They don't easily regulate their body temperature which makes going in and out stressful on them.

Most people seem to think that the ideal first rabbit would be a baby. After all, what better way to have bunny bond with me? Surprisingly, a baby is not recommended. But before you dismiss this idea ("but I want a baby") take a read at this page on my website. It will save me a lot of typing!

As for indoor cages, there's a fun thread here on this forum that shows a number of members housing (indoor and out).
https://www.rabbitsonline.net/threads/2019-cages-add-your-photo.93422/

For the indoor cage, no wire flooring. It is unnecessary and actually more work. You'll see on the cages link that most of us have a large litter box and no loose bedding elsewhere. Carpet, fleece blankets, tile, lino, rugs, mats, or foam tiles are all options that some have used for the main cage floor. My site has other pages on housing (including flooring options), litter training, diet, etc. Just browse around.

For the logistics of litter training, older rabbits (already fixed) train the most easily. They usually train themselves provided they have an appropriate set-up (as discussed on my site). It is not true, that the younger they are, the easier they train. In fact, even those babies that do happen to train can suddenly forget that training with the onset of hormones. Fixed rabbits train more easily and bond more easily.

Before I type so much your eyes glaze over (too late, right? ) I'll end here and leave you to check out the links above.

 

[Critterfan87]

I've been talking to the breeder friend I'll most likely go to when the time comes. Getting excited! She breeds broken reds, broken blacks, black otters and is just starting with blue eyed whites, along with a few others, but those are nearly all the colors I'm most attracted to. She has a few breeds but those are all her Mini Rex, I've mostly settled on that breed. Was between the Mini Rex or the Neatherland Dwarf.

Think I've settled on only one as that seems the majority consensus and most likely a buck, seems like the slight majority think they are generally better pets? Bonus, they are less expensive to fix too. But I'll keep my mind open on a doe if the breeder thinks a particular one will fit me better at the time ...

What type of litter box is best, an open box or ones with a grate across the top?

 

[Critterfan87]

Thanks for the links Blue eyes! I'm working my way through the website now.

 

[Lionheadloady]

For me I have three bunnies. One male, one female and one spayed female. They all live separately. My male is by far the sweetest thing ever! He is like a puppy and follows us around the house. He is a holland lop which is my favorite breed of you are looking for a cuddly friend who always wants attention! Recently he has been going through puberty and we are keeping him intact until he gets retired from our breeding program. I would defiantly get a male and if you are looking for a pair two females work but it’s iffy and the best is to have a male and female as they are like a married couple lol.i would also recommend the critter nation double story cage it’s fairly cheap and very big for your bunny’s!

 

[Blue eyes]

Sorry, but I would not recommend the DCN (double critter nation) cage. It is too small (base is 6 square feet -- below minimum recommendations) and it is quite expensive (about $250 is the current SALE price).

 

[Critterfan87]

So I get the reasoning for an adult already altered rabbit being recommended but it's very likely that in this area I'll be mostly limited to a younger one. Was already planning on neutering it anyway but when is the ideal age/size to alter one both medically and behaviorally?

 

[Blue eyes]

So I get the reasoning for an adult already altered rabbit being recommended but it's very likely that in this area I'll be mostly limited to a younger one. Was already planning on neutering it anyway but when is the ideal age/size to alter one both medically and behaviorally?

If you could let us know your state, we could let you know availability (if any) of already-fixed rabbits.

I'd also suggest checking prices in your area for neutering and spaying. In my area, a spay is $250 but I've seen others here pay significantly more (even for a neuter). So just be prepared for that.

Age for spaying or neutering depends on the rabbit's weight, maturity (if testicles have descended), and the comfort level of your vet. Very roughly, males can usually be done around 4 months of age and females at 5 or 6 months.

If you do ultimately decide to get a baby, I would not recommend getting two. Way too many possibilities of problems with doing that.

 

[Critterfan87]

Thank you!
I'm in Idaho. I do know of one rabbit rescue not super far away from me, so they might be a possibility. I was actually guessing an estimate of $150 to fix one but just started a spread sheet for up front costs and called one of the two vets I usually use. It will be $140 for a buck and $170 for a doe. Couldn't get through to the other vet, they must be busy today. Sometimes they are less, sometimes more but one quote is enough for my planning purposes right now.

 

[zuppa]

Thank you!
I'm in Idaho. I do know of one rabbit rescue not super far away from me, so they might be a possibility. I was actually guessing an estimate of $150 to fix one but just started a spread sheet for up front costs and called one of the two vets I usually use. It will be $140 for a buck and $170 for a doe. Couldn't get through to the other vet, they must be busy today. Sometimes they are less, sometimes more but one quote is enough for my planning purposes right now.

Bear in mind that if you got two unfixed rabbits you will have to keep them in separate cages about two months after they fixed, then you will introduce them to each other to see if they will bond (there's no 100% guarantee) so just be prepared that you will need to clean two cages and let them out to play for a few hours all separately, or if you have two different rooms for them. Also they might mark their territory (pee & poop) and can also spray your walls and furniture with urine. That usually starts at 2,5-3 months age and is different for different rabbits, some rabbits don't spray, don't rattle their cage, don't get aggressive and don't pee on you. But you never know when you are getting a 8 week old baby, first you have a few weeks of sweetness then you deal with their hormones and they can change dramatically. You can usually neuter/spay them at 4,5-6 months depending on your vets experience. after that you still keep them separately 6-8 weeks.

If I knew all this information before I've got my rabbits I'd have much easier life to be honest, so it's very good of you that you found this forum first, you'll find tons of information here and what was already said don't read just theory visit some shelter and see some rabbits how they live, how they poop&pee and then you can decide if this is for you or not. They are amazing animals but also need some work and time and it's not always so shiny as you can see on instagram.

 

[Lionheadloady]

Sorry, but I would not recommend the DCN (double critter nation) cage. It is too small (base is 6 square feet -- below minimum recommendations) and it is quite expensive (about $250 is the current SALE price).

your right on the size but my bunnies have a huge play area attached to their cages They also get 2hrs+ of free roam time

 

[Lionheadloady]

If you could let us know your state, we could let you know availability (if any) of already-fixed rabbits.

I'd also suggest checking prices in your area for neutering and spaying. In my area, a spay is $250 but I've seen others here pay significantly more (even for a neuter). So just be prepared for that.

Age for spaying or neutering depends on the rabbit's weight, maturity (if testicles have descended), and the comfort level of your vet. Very roughly, males can usually be done around 4 months of age and females at 5 or 6 months.

If you do ultimately decide to get a baby, I would not recommend getting two. Way too many possibilities of problems with doing that.

What cage do you have?

 

[Blue eyes]

your right on the size but my bunnies have a huge play area attached to their cages They also get 2hrs+ of free roam time

I find it important -- especially with new bunny owners -- to be very clear about what cages are too small. Having a permanent pen around the cage with permanent access to that space means that their "habitat" is both the cage and the permanent space. You have such a set-up, so that's great! I didn't want anyone thinking that a DCN cage is fine for a rabbit to be confined most of the time.

One of the newer members on here has a similar set-up but the rabbit is only given access to the pen area for an hour or two each day. (and their cage is even smaller than a DCN) That is not great for the rabbit.

We have a DCN but we used it for our rats and then for some small birds.
To answer what cage we have.... well we've had a whole bunch of rabbit cages over the years. All of them were DIY cages. They gradually grew larger and then they became smaller as we started allowing all day free-roaming.

Currently I'm using a cage made from an old kitchen cabinet. I always clarify, though, when showing anyone my cage that it is too small by itself. The cage door is open first thing in the morning and isn't shut until we go to bed (somewhere around 11pm to midnight).

View attachment 40831

 

[Lionheadloady]

Wow that’s awesome! Love your setup! My bunnies have a whole room dedicated to them and my bird lol. Need to be more specific next time lol. Also hooks Holland’s actually recommends the Critter Nation cage and loves it so it is a possibility. The best option is defidantly free roaming your bunnies but I have dogs so that is not possible.

 

[Blue eyes]

Thanks, @Lionheadloady

We've always had dogs too!

 

[Blue eyes]

(Just because a breeder happens to recommend something, doesn't mean it is gospel. The floor space of a DCN is still well short of the minimum. It should only be considered do-able if it is left open for 5-6 hours per day. )

 

[Critterfan87]

So, random stream of thought for today. This is why I like a lot of lead time to think about things before getting totally new to me critters ... Initially, I was thinking of getting a nice looking, closest thing to furniture type hutch I could find that rabbit would stay in overnight and probably a few hours during the day, with a decently sized Xpen type thing around the hutch for stretching out. That would go in the Reading Room, next to my nice looking large wooden display cages for some of my other critters. Could paint the hutch to match those. There are chairs and books in the room (currently full of all our random bookcases SO and I had when we moved in together. Large, nice built in bookcases are on the to do list for SO, who is pretty handy with wood but can be hard to get started on projects and I most definitely am not handy, so don't want to count on help building custom from the bottom up, so looking at commercial hutches.) Would be easy to loaf around there non deliberately bonding with the rabbit but I do worry about chewing on books and bookcases, so might be harder to proof the room and the room is not very blockable to the cats, so free roaming unsupervised in that room is unlikely.

But it occurred to me that my freaking huge waste of space laundry room is actually the most easily proofed room in the house, needing only a few things. I know, the good kind of complaint to have right? But the thing is 25 by 15 feet and most of that space is useless for other than piling junk there. The downstairs cat box and their food is in there but I think I can move that to a different room without freaking them out too much. That means I could make a potentially much cheaper storage cube enclosure for litter training and anytime bunny needed locked up, since I wouldn't care how it looked in that room and it could much more easily have the run of the entire room most of the day and night in there, because there is a door to keep the cats out. Only major downside is that it's off the beaten path, no one goes in there except to do laundry and use the nice big sink when cleaning stuff in the Reptile Room, so it would be much harder to randomly let the rabbit get used to one while going about the day. Hmm .... More I think about it, the more I'm leaning to the laundry room ...