Am I neglecting my bunnies?

[brerrabbit]

Hi, I got my first bunnies 2 weeks ago, 1 at age 5 months and 1 at age 8 weeks. I knew there were some signs of past neglect in the 5 month old adopted male, Br'er before I adopted him when they told me he was underweight and had overgrown wicks. They were feeding him pet shop brand junior nuggets to help him gain weight. When I bought the female from a pet shop, I could see she also had worse overgrown wicks than Br'er did and she was very fearful. I saw the lady in the pet shop didn't know how to handle bunnies, although there was food and water and their cage was a fair size and clean. She was eating Science Selective Junior nuggets. Upon studying the ingredients, Br'er's nuggets were made of lots of filler ingredients and no alfafa, whereas Briar Rose's nuggets did contain alfalfa as well. I decided Br'er would gradually switch to the selective junior nuggets too, and although he is currently on 1/4 old and 3/4 new, he devours the new first and only eats the older brand when that's all that's left a little later.

Over the past 2 weeks I've become concerned that I'm not meeting their needs as they still show signs of neglect. I apologise it's along post, but I just wanted to include as much detail as I could.

Br'er = licks/drinks his urine. Research tells me this is either a sign of neglect, or too much calcium, although him consuming the urine isn't harmful. It's been 2 weeks and the behaviour hasn't dissipated. Am I neglecting him? Could he be getting too much calcium because of the junior nuggets? His new and old contain really similar calcium. Our daily routine is included further down this post.
= bar chewing. I keep hamsters and know this means they are unhappy in their cage, and is behaviour which can cause them harm. I assume this is the same for rabbits. I know my cage is small - it's the ferplast 120 rabbit cage - because I intend to only make them use it for 3 to 6 months when they are ready for me to try and help them bond. They're in there 12 hours each per day and free roamed the other 12 (when they switch). I'm saving for a really nice (aesthetically for humans) larger rabbit house I've had my eye on, for a base when they can (hopefully) share and free roam full time. Will this be too late, will it harm him too much in the meantime? Currently the toys in the cage are; a basket filled with twigs, loofah and other things, some edible sticks, a willow twigs twisty thing and a toilet roll tube stuffed with hay. Briar Rose occasionally chews when it's getting close to switch-over time.
= yellow tinge on back feet. My litter cleaning routine is included below, am I not cleaning enough? When in the cage, he tends to lay in the litter tray. The rest of him isn't yellow, just the yellow tinge on his back feet. Should I start using a hay feeder and stop layering hay onto the litter tray? Should I put a blanket or bed in there? I'd left soft stuff out so they would use the litter tray, but both rabbits seem to be only peeing in the tray when in the cage anyway.

Briar Rose = Really overgrown wicks on back feet. She struggles with being handled so I'm doing my best to get her at her calmest, and be as brief as possible. She will allow me to pick her up once daily - when I'm taking her out of the cage for free roam time, so twice I've used this time to try and shave the tiny bit of white there is from some of her nails, and get a quick groom in before she starts to appear stressed. I need some ideas such as the slate tile by the water dish, to support her nail trimmings so we can get the wicks to recede.
= Brown urine. Her urine has been brown since I brought her home, and my research suggested she was dehydrated. She has a water bowl and I see her drinking regularly, but 2 weeks later and still brown urine, so I'm wondering why?

Our Routine
7-8am = I sit in living room where Briar Rose free roams, and clean up all the loose poos from my sofa.
9-10am= I scoop wet corner of litter tray, remove poo & soiled hay. I top up corner with layer of aspen, then layer of brown paper bedding (both "small pet select" own brand, where I get my hamster's stuff).
= I hold pet carrier in front of Briar Rose, and give her a timothy hay treat & close door when she hops in.
= I top up litter tray with timothy hay and mix in a little meadow and orchard.
= I open the cage for Br'er, and pick him up when he comes over ready. I pet him and place him in living room and refresh the litter tray and hay in the cage as I did the other tray. Mop up any urine from wall of corner.
= Clean both sets of food and water dishes and give fresh water. Put egg cup worth of junior nuggets in living room dish for Br'er, and slightly overflowing egg cup worth in cage dish for Briar Rose.
= Open pet carrier into cage doorway and let Briar Rose hop out for her food.

Get on with my day, sometimes at work, sometimes out shopping etc, sometimes at home doing housework or lazing around.

4-5pm = Give Br'er his cabbage (he is on 1/2 of a leaf now).

Usually chilling in living room with Br'er

8-9pm= Refresh litter trays as before or empty, clean and refill completely every 2 to 3 days.
= Have last cuddles with Br'er before showing him the pet carrier. Give him timothy hay treat and close door when he hops in.
= Open cage for Briar Rose, let her sniff my hand and pet her head with 1 finger. Make sure she can see my hands approaching and isn't running away before I pick her up. Every few days or so, check her nails and try to give little brush until she appears to become stressed. Give her timothy treat and pop her in living room.
= Clean both sets of food dishes, give water. Put egg cup worth of junior nuggets into cage dish for Br'er. Slightly overflowing egg cup worth in living room dish for Briar Rose.
= Open pet carrier into cage doorway and let Br'er hop out for his food.
= Chill in the living room with Briar Rose for an hour or 2 before bed, then leave her alone in living room for the night.

I'm doing lots of research, but there seems to be conflicting information on things such as feeding etc, so with me being new at keeping rabbits (as an adult) I'm just really worried I'm doing things wrong. Their hay is unlimited and I include hay into toys too, but their nuggets I give 1 egg cup worth, twice a day. The packet says I should give unlimited pellets, and they do both run straight to their dishes at feeding times, although Br'er doesn't eat it all straight away. Am I feeding them enough? Are there things I should be doing for their welfare that I'm missing out? I've been obsessed with rabbits for a long time and I just want things to be perfect for them. Honestly I'd have gotten 10 bunnies if it weren't for vets bills!

 

[Blue eyes]

I'm a little short on time at the moment, but I'll see what I can respond to for now.

For rabbit food pellets, rabbits transition to adult pellets at around 6 months of age. For this reason, I would not suggest switching the older rabbit back to alfalfa-based pellets. If he is still underweight (see attached chart) then maybe just mix some of the alfalfa pellets in with the other pellets but don't completely switch to just the alfalfa-based ones.

I am wondering how Br'er is able to drink his pee. If he's peeing in a litter box, then the pee will be absorbed into the litter. I assume he's peeing on some solid surface?? How is his water supplied (bottle or bowl) and does he use it?

Chewing cage bars can misalign teeth so it should be stopped. One way to do this is to attach some plain cardboard (with zip-ties or similar) on the area being chewed. Some rabbits will chew the bars even if their cage door is open, so it doesn't necessarily mean they are trying to get out. Toys are often ignored by rabbits. Some enjoy them, but I've found that they are just as likely to ignore them. The edible kind (like several you mentioned having) tend to get more interest. A photo of your setup and cages would be most helpful. Also a photo of what cage you've been eyeing as well.

The type of bedding being used in the litter box is likely the source of the yellow-tinge feet. I would suggest using wood pellets (not shavings) and top that with hay. With that setup, you do not need to do daily scooping at all. Just add fresh hay on top a couple times per day. No removing of anything. Hay is great in the litter box and actually helps keep their fur clean when they are laying in the litter box. A good size litter box with such a setup should only need to be cleaned out once per week (if one rabbit is using it). There will be no odor during that week. Here is that setup description with photos. It does show the initial setup with hay on one side, but the rabbits tend to spread it across the whole box anyway. It is just as fine to cover all the pellets with hay from the start.

Once they consistently use their litter box, then you can try a pet bed for their comfort. See if they try peeing on it or chewing it. This isn't what will affect yellow tinging though.

You mentioned picking up the baby to take her out for exercise. This is not usually recommended and she (and Br'er) could begin to rebel against this. Rather than explain it here, I'll refer you to where I explain it in detail on this page (about halfway down page). ....edit: I see that you are using a carrier to transport. That is good. Better if you can get them to hop into the carrier from their cage rather than you picking them up-- perhaps using a similar method that you use to get them in when exercise time is over. It's possible from what you describe, that they may get used to your current routine. Just be prepared for potential rebellion towards being picked up as they age.

Is it possible that Briar Rose's urine is looking brown because of the brown paper bedding? How are you seeing the color?

Caution that cabbage can cause gas issues in some rabbits. Is this his first type of green?

The 5 month old is about to be ready for his adult diet. So limiting his pellets are fine provided you see if he is maintaining that healthy body condition (per attached chart). The baby does not need her pellets limited. Babies can be free fed pellets provided they do not decrease their hay consumption. If they start eating less hay, then the pellets can be somewhat limited. It is pretty typical for rabbits to eat their pellets with gusto. They are rich and appealing. This is why they need to be limited as they become adults. Otherwise they will often favor the pellets over their hay.

I used this love for pellets to my advantage by using them to entice the rabbits back into their cage in the evening for bedtime.

 

[Preitler]

What are overgrown wicks? Never heard of that. English isn't my first language and I'm not familiar with that term.

Honestly, my gut feeling here is that you worry too much and overthink things a little, relax .

 

[Blue eyes]

What are overgrown wicks? Never heard of that. English isn't my first language and I'm not familiar with that term.

Honestly, my gut feeling here is that you worry too much and overthink things a little, relax .

I assumed they were referring to the quick of the nails. That was my guess.

 

[brerrabbit]

I'm a little short on time at the moment, but I'll see what I can respond to for now.

For rabbit food pellets, rabbits transition to adult pellets at around 6 months of age. For this reason, I would not suggest switching the older rabbit back to alfalfa-based pellets. If he is still underweight (see attached chart) then maybe just mix some of the alfalfa pellets in with the other pellets but don't completely switch to just the alfalfa-based ones.

I am wondering how Br'er is able to drink his pee. If he's peeing in a litter box, then the pee will be absorbed into the litter. I assume he's peeing on some solid surface?? How is his water supplied (bottle or bowl) and does he use it?

Chewing cage bars can misalign teeth so it should be stopped. One way to do this is to attach some plain cardboard (with zip-ties or similar) on the area being chewed. Some rabbits will chew the bars even if their cage door is open, so it doesn't necessarily mean they are trying to get out. Toys are often ignored by rabbits. Some enjoy them, but I've found that they are just as likely to ignore them. The edible kind (like several you mentioned having) tend to get more interest. A photo of your setup and cages would be most helpful. Also a photo of what cage you've been eyeing as well.

The type of bedding being used in the litter box is likely the source of the yellow-tinge feet. I would suggest using wood pellets (not shavings) and top that with hay. With that setup, you do not need to do daily scooping at all. Just add fresh hay on top a couple times per day. No removing of anything. Hay is great in the litter box and actually helps keep their fur clean when they are laying in the litter box. A good size litter box with such a setup should only need to be cleaned out once per week (if one rabbit is using it). There will be no odor during that week. Here is that setup description with photos. It does show the initial setup with hay on one side, but the rabbits tend to spread it across the whole box anyway. It is just as fine to cover all the pellets with hay from the start.

Once they consistently use their litter box, then you can try a pet bed for their comfort. See if they try peeing on it or chewing it. This isn't what will affect yellow tinging though.

You mentioned picking up the baby to take her out for exercise. This is not usually recommended and she (and Br'er) could begin to rebel against this. Rather than explain it here, I'll refer you to where I explain it in detail on this page (about halfway down page). ....edit: I see that you are using a carrier to transport. That is good. Better if you can get them to hop into the carrier from their cage rather than you picking them up-- perhaps using a similar method that you use to get them in when exercise time is over. It's possible from what you describe, that they may get used to your current routine. Just be prepared for potential rebellion towards being picked up as they age.

Is it possible that Briar Rose's urine is looking brown because of the brown paper bedding? How are you seeing the color?

Caution that cabbage can cause gas issues in some rabbits. Is this his first type of green?

The 5 month old is about to be ready for his adult diet. So limiting his pellets are fine provided you see if he is maintaining that healthy body condition (per attached chart). The baby does not need her pellets limited. Babies can be free fed pellets provided they do not decrease their hay consumption. If they start eating less hay, then the pellets can be somewhat limited. It is pretty typical for rabbits to eat their pellets with gusto. They are rich and appealing. This is why they need to be limited as they become adults. Otherwise they will often favor the pellets over their hay.

I used this love for pellets to my advantage by using them to entice the rabbits back into their cage in the evening for bedtime.

View attachment 64064

Thanks so much for your helpful response.

According to the weight chart you included, I don't think Br'er is actually underweight at all. He looks quite fit to me and his bones don't feel pointy or sharp. I don't know what you can tell about rabbit weight from a photo, but I'll include some anyway... Both old and new foods are junior foods, so I'm wondering if I should start to think about moving him on to regular adult food.


Both rabbits chose the sofa as a litter area and after Br'er peed he would turn around and obsessively lick the patch of pee. I started putting puppy pads down to protect the sofa, which showed up that Briar Rose's pee was brown even without the brown litter. Now I've covered the sofa with a plastic sheet so the pee puddles up and it's a race to mop up the pee before Br'er drinks it all. Briar Rose urine looks a little lighter, maybe a slight orange tinge, on the plastic. I've now shown a pic of the puddles to the vet who advised to continue to ensure water is always available. I've put the litter tray onto the sofa now too.


They both use bowls for their water, although I did get a bottle with the cage so I could provide both the bowls and the bottle? I do see them drinking water regularly and I freshen it up twice daily or extra if required.


Thanks for the tip for his bar chewing, I'll attach cardboard straight away. I only use 1 cage which they switch over in. I didn't have a clue what the hay feeder was at the time of the photo. So the feeder is different now and there's a few more stick things. Just to note, I do fill the litter tray with hay but we had just got back from an early vets appointment so I hadn't topped it up yet...
The cage I did have my eye on was a custom build in a local shop, but I've changed my mind since I've find nice cages for half the price online so I've now got my eye on these...
They are actually outdoor runs, but they will fit and my taste in decor is apparently very weird so they will look nice imo lol. I think the brown and white is nicest but it's not as big.
Oh that litter cleaning regime seems much easier then, I will be changing my routine to suit and continuing adding hay.
Thanks for the advice on not picking up Briar Rose. I was just thinking that I didn't want all her encounters being picked up being for grooming, nail or vets etc so I was picking her up (but no petting while holding) and placing her straight into the living room, thinking it will help build up trust (so long as she isn't chased). She's getting much braver now, climbing on my knee being curious, she's accepting treats from my hand and follows me so I think the free roaming with me in the room is building trust and I could certainly miss out picking her up from the cage. She likely feels trapped in the cage too, when a pair of hands come intruding in.

It is his first fresh food yes. When I asked about his diet they said he had the junior nuggets and a small piece of cabbage on a morning and I should increase that slowly. I have some cauliflower (but no leaves on), spinach, chard, basil and parsley to hand now, should I change to one of these instead?

I really appreciate all your advice, thanks so much!

 

[brerrabbit]

I assumed they were referring to the quick of the nails. That was my guess.

I'm so embarrassed! I've never read the word, only (mis)heard it and I've been saying it that way for years, nobody ever corrected me! Yes I meant the quick , thank you.

 

[brerrabbit]

What are overgrown wicks? Never heard of that. English isn't my first language and I'm not familiar with that term.

Honestly, my gut feeling here is that you worry too much and overthink things a little, relax .

Some1 corrected me I actually meant quicks and English is supposed to be my 1st language haha

Thanks for your reassurance I can be a worrier, I'm sure I'll calm down when I've gotten the hang of things lol.

 

[Diane R]

Those cages are too small and they are very dificult

Thanks so much for your helpful response.

According to the weight chart you included, I don't think Br'er is actually underweight at all. He looks quite fit to me and his bones don't feel pointy or sharp. I don't know what you can tell about rabbit weight from a photo, but I'll include some anyway... Both old and new foods are junior foods, so I'm wondering if I should start to think about moving him on to regular adult food.
View attachment 64103View attachment 64104

Both rabbits chose the sofa as a litter area and after Br'er peed he would turn around and obsessively lick the patch of pee. I started putting puppy pads down to protect the sofa, which showed up that Briar Rose's pee was brown even without the brown litter. Now I've covered the sofa with a plastic sheet so the pee puddles up and it's a race to mop up the pee before Br'er drinks it all. Briar Rose urine looks a little lighter, maybe a slight orange tinge, on the plastic. I've now shown a pic of the puddles to the vet who advised to continue to ensure water is always available. I've put the litter tray onto the sofa now too.
View attachment 64105

They both use bowls for their water, although I did get a bottle with the cage so I could provide both the bowls and the bottle? I do see them drinking water regularly and I freshen it up twice daily or extra if required.
View attachment 64101

Thanks for the tip for his bar chewing, I'll attach cardboard straight away. I only use 1 cage which they switch over in. View attachment 64102 I didn't have a clue what the hay feeder was at the time of the photo. So the feeder is different now and there's a few more stick things. Just to note, I do fill the litter tray with hay but we had just got back from an early vets appointment so I hadn't topped it up yet...
The cage I did have my eye on was a custom build in a local shop, but I've changed my mind since I've find nice cages for half the price online so I've now got my eye on these...
View attachment 64106View attachment 64107View attachment 64108View attachment 64109 They are actually outdoor runs, but they will fit and my taste in decor is apparently very weird so they will look nice imo lol. I think the brown and white is nicest but it's not as big.
Oh that litter cleaning regime seems much easier then, I will be changing my routine to suit and continuing adding hay.
Thanks for the advice on not picking up Briar Rose. I was just thinking that I didn't want all her encounters being picked up being for grooming, nail or vets etc so I was picking her up (but no petting while holding) and placing her straight into the living room, thinking it will help build up trust (so long as she isn't chased). She's getting much braver now, climbing on my knee being curious, she's accepting treats from my hand and follows me so I think the free roaming with me in the room is building trust and I could certainly miss out picking her up from the cage. She likely feels trapped in the cage too, when a pair of hands come intruding in.

It is his first fresh food yes. When I asked about his diet they said he had the junior nuggets and a small piece of cabbage on a morning and I should increase that slowly. I have some cauliflower (but no leaves on), spinach, chard, basil and parsley to hand now, should I change to one of these instead?

I really appreciate all your advice, thanks so much!

Those cages are too small and very difficult to clean. Much better to build a large enclosure and have some hiding places with two exits in there. Check here for good advice on housing: Indoor Housing

 

[brerrabbit]

Those cages are too small and they are very dificult

Those cages are too small and very difficult to clean. Much better to build a large enclosure and have some hiding places with two exits in there. Check here for good advice on housing: Indoor Housing

Thanks for the link that's really helpful. It doesnt say how big the cage needs to be when the bunnies are free roam? They're currently using the cage and living room alternating, because they're not neutered and kept separately for now. The goal is they will free roam my living room until I'm confident they can safely free roam the downstairs (barring just the kitchen). I just want a cage to be like a base for them or if young children visit for example.

 

[Diane R]

Thanks for the link that's really helpful. It doesnt say how big the cage needs to be when the bunnies are free roam? They're currently using the cage and living room alternating, because they're not neutered and kept separately for now. The goal is they will free roam my living room until I'm confident they can safely free roam the downstairs (barring just the kitchen). I just want a cage to be like a base for them or if young children visit for example.

Great you plan to have them free roaming. You don't need a cage, I would just get a foldable pen for the rare occasions they need to be in a smaller area. Something like this (ideally a couple of them as one is quite small, even for just a few hours): Zippi Guinea Pig Playpen Starter Pack - Double Height | Omlet

 

[user 35459]

I definitely recommend an xpen. They tend to be cheaper and way easier to clean than cages/kennels and such setups. This is my transition (key word: TRANSITION. As in very, very temporary) setup for my angora. It’s 12 square feet and around 3 feet high (it’s a dog xpen). She can jump it when she really, really wants to but she only did it once. When she gets really excited during feeding time though she occasionally jumps and clings to the top. For rabbits, check the spacing of the bars and height of the pen so they can’t squeeze through or jump over it (my angora is a big girl so it’s hard to avoid with her). As a standard, don’t go with more than 2 inch spacing between the bars and less than 2.5 feet in height (varies depending on the size of the rabbit).
The mat I’m using in the photo is the Oxbow Enriched Life Play Yard Floor Cover. It’s water proof and easy to wipe or spray down (not machine washable though). I like using waterproof cat litter mats for a cheaper option. The one in the link is the one I use. It’s also easy to spray down with a hose or in a shower and it’s machine washable.
Something you may wish to look into in the future are cat litter boxes. It’s a better selection. My angora’s litter box is the jumbo sized EquisiCat Plastic Compartment Litter Pan. It’s durable and super easy to clean. I use the bottom of an old small animal cage for my polish rabbit, but he’s a rarity with near flawless litter box habits and he’s tiny. Keep in mind that once they’re grown and bonded your rabbits will need a very large litter box which can be hard to find. Use a little creativity with your rabbits


This is the only photo I have with the best shot of Olaf’s litter box. Sorry, it’s not very good I swear it’s larger than it looks it the photo!


https://www.naturalpetwarehouse.com...MIt5HNzo_X_QIVFjytBh2YMwweEAQYAyABEgKlt_D_BwE
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Drymate-...MI_ealx5LX_QIVgzStBh1mkQkDEAQYAyABEgIYMPD_BwE
https://www.petsmart.com/cat/litter...MIg9frkZPX_QIVIgbnCh0x2gxlEAQYAyABEgIRmPD_BwE

 

[brerrabbit]

Great you plan to have them free roaming. You don't need a cage, I would just get a foldable pen for the rare occasions they need to be in a smaller area. Something like this (ideally a couple of them as one is quite small, even for just a few hours): Zippi Guinea Pig Playpen Starter Pack - Double Height | Omlet

They look way more versatile, thank you

 

[brerrabbit]

I definitely recommend an xpen. They tend to be cheaper and way easier to clean than cages/kennels and such setups. This is my transition (key word: TRANSITION. As in very, very temporary) setup for my angora. It’s 12 square feet and around 3 feet high (it’s a dog xpen). She can jump it when she really, really wants to but she only did it once. When she gets really excited during feeding time though she occasionally jumps and clings to the top. For rabbits, check the spacing of the bars and height of the pen so they can’t squeeze through or jump over it (my angora is a big girl so it’s hard to avoid with her). As a standard, don’t go with more than 2 inch spacing between the bars and less than 2.5 feet in height (varies depending on the size of the rabbit).
The mat I’m using in the photo is the Oxbow Enriched Life Play Yard Floor Cover. It’s water proof and easy to wipe or spray down (not machine washable though). I like using waterproof cat litter mats for a cheaper option. The one in the link is the one I use. It’s also easy to spray down with a hose or in a shower and it’s machine washable.
Something you may wish to look into in the future are cat litter boxes. It’s a better selection. My angora’s litter box is the jumbo sized EquisiCat Plastic Compartment Litter Pan. It’s durable and super easy to clean. I use the bottom of an old small animal cage for my polish rabbit, but he’s a rarity with near flawless litter box habits and he’s tiny. Keep in mind that once they’re grown and bonded your rabbits will need a very large litter box which can be hard to find. Use a little creativity with your rabbits

View attachment 64140
This is the only photo I have with the best shot of Olaf’s litter box. Sorry, it’s not very good I swear it’s larger than it looks it the photo!
View attachment 64141

https://www.naturalpetwarehouse.com...MIt5HNzo_X_QIVFjytBh2YMwweEAQYAyABEgKlt_D_BwE
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Drymate-...MI_ealx5LX_QIVgzStBh1mkQkDEAQYAyABEgIYMPD_BwE
https://www.petsmart.com/cat/litter...MIg9frkZPX_QIVIgbnCh0x2gxlEAQYAyABEgIRmPD_BwE

She is so cute! Your set up looks great she looks happy
Thanks very much for the helpful tips... I'm currently using a cat litter tray for the living room, it's just inside the cage I've just got a storage box in there for now lol.

Thank you for adding links! I'll also be getting that mat straight away it seems brilliant.

 

[user 35459]

She is so cute! Your set up looks great she looks happy
Thanks very much for the helpful tips... I'm currently using a cat litter tray for the living room, it's just inside the cage I've just got a storage box in there for now lol.

Thank you for adding links! I'll also be getting that mat straight away it seems brilliant.

Sure
I should warn you though, the Oxbow mat can be a pain to clean if any of the mess gets under it. In those cases I like to use a tarp instead. I just heard about this mat from another thread (forgot which one). It’s a bit pricey, but something to look at. I might look into it for Olaf in the future.

https://www.rabbit-world.com/product/rabbit-playmat/

 

[Blue eyes]

1. They both use bowls for their water, although I did get a bottle with the cage so I could provide both the bowls and the bottle? I do see them drinking water regularly and I freshen it up twice daily or extra if required.

2. She likely feels trapped in the cage too, when a pair of hands come intruding in.

3. It is his first fresh food yes. When I asked about his diet they said he had the junior nuggets and a small piece of cabbage on a morning and I should increase that slowly. I have some cauliflower (but no leaves on), spinach, chard, basil and parsley to hand now, should I change to one of these instead?

I really appreciate all your advice, thanks so much!

Replying to a couple points I numbered above...

1. If they are drinking fine out of the bowl, no need to add the bottle. That'd just be something extra to clean and isn't needed.

2. You are correct. Check this page of my site (about halfway down the page) for more detail on this topic.

3. Cauliflower and cabbage can cause gas issues in many rabbits. Parsley is high in calcium so should be limited. Check out the tutorial on feeding/introducing greens on this page of my site.

A home base cage is a good idea even for free roam rabbits. It gives them a place they can retreat to whenever they don't want to be bothered. An ex-pen, as already recommended, can be used for this purpose. It can be configured to create quite a large space if you make use of an existing wall as shown in attached photo.