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I agree with Blue eyes. We found the easiest way is to put the syringe in from the side, behind the teeth.

You might want to feed them separately since 18% protein is pretty high for a neutered non wool rabbit. Since rabbits can groom each other you’ll need to be more diligent about keeping them both brushed. You can give the Papaya tablets to both rabbits. We had non wool rabbits and gave them to...

Yes, but as was said you should make a new post rather than adding to an old one.

Actually, I don’t know of any breeders who microchip. If you were selling for pet you could, but once the person buys the rabbit and they update the contact information through the tracking organization you would not normally be notified, so not sure it would help you. As far as I know you would...

No, I meant what I said. I agree with SableSteel

We didn’t regularly deworm our rabbits but I would use Safeguard liquid for goats. It’s easily tolerated by rabbits and a good general dewormer. As far as breeding, after a hot summer we found that heat temporarily lowers the sperm count in males. If your summers are in the upper 80’s-90’s you...

You can syringe water to get keep them hydrated.

If you press down too much you can make a buck look like a doe.

I think that how you ‘socialize’ is also dependent on what your breeding purpose is. A pet breeder would definitely benefit from that program. For a breeder who shows/breeds for show, you would gear it towards getting the kit used to being handled, like by a show judge...but the bunny must also...

My thought would be Lionhead x Polish cross

We never judged the HQ width by the front paws so idk about using that criteria. You want to use a buck that will complement your doe’s type. Any flaws she has you want the buck to have good type in those areas. I would use a buck a little smaller than her.

Just as a side, if you don’t have much of mom’s fur, you can use dryer lint to layer the nest, under and over, them.

Given his personality he may be sensitive to the change (you’re not being able to give him the usual attention) and is pulling fur due to stress and/or boredom, especially if his diet hasn’t changed. He is probably not eating the hair though.

You would probably be okay to breed. Her hindquarters are a bit pinched though. You can tell by the way her back feet angle out when she’s flipped over on her back.

If they’re getting cold then they won’t take much milk and they will get weaker and weaker. Its sort of a vicious cycle. Honestly, in our experience, if you don’t have another nursing doe or know someone who does, there isn’t much hope.

You might consider taking just one of them to the vet to culture the discharge; otherwise, just make sure they all stay warm. If the sniffles occurs again I’d take them to the vet pretty quick. Their immune system is pretty fragile at that age.

Since the OP asked in the Rabbitry forum it is a valid question. Culling can mean anything from a terminal end to removing/selling due to pet quality. That being said, we sold pet quality for $20-$25 just because we didn’t want someone wanting them for snake food.

Evans is a very popular pedigree software. We used Kintraks Animal Breeder.

She’s a first time mother, correct? If she’s digging in the nestbox then that would be a concern. If you can’t watch her, then to be safe, you could take the box out and put it in for them to nurse. It would be better if you didn’t have to do that, but if she continues to act in a way that...

Kits can, and will, roam so if they aren’t in a nestbox make sure they can’t go far. Newborns are also susceptible to chilling until they get a coat of hair on them.