Blyre
Well-Known Member
What a lovely bunny with such a greatpersonality. I especially love the cage. Any chance I can get the plansfor it from you? 
Blyre
Blyre
Trixie the Mini-lop
- Thread starter TrixieRabbit
- Start date
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naturestee
Well-Known Member
What a cute little butt!
It looks like she really likes the pegboard. I'll have to remember that!
It looks like she really likes the pegboard. I'll have to remember that!
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
Blyre wrote:
Here are the plans for the cage:
45 - 14" x14" grids (Bed Bath and Beyond: $14.95 each)
1 large sheet (4 ft x 8 ft) of 1/2" thick plywood (Home Depot cut it tosize for free) for base and shelves. 1st piece (base)cut to 28w x42L; 2[suP]nd[/suP] piece (first shelf) cut to 28w x 28L;3[suP]rd[/suP] piece, for top level should be 28w x 42L
1 large sheet (4 ft x8 ft) of peg board for shelves (to lay above plywood-also cut for free at Home Depot)
Approx. 8-3/4" x 1 3/8"long wood sticksfor supporting the roof and shelves and to go around sides of base (notexactly sure how many were used, we cut them down to size. This sizealso fits in the grid holes. You can use a diff size, just measure thegrid holes to see what size you will need)
Zip ties
4 small casters (wheels) for base
Approx 20 -12" x 12" peel-n-stick linoleum tiles for baseonly (you don't have to use limoleum tiles, but it makes it easier toclean up any spilled water or urine if the bunny misses her litter box)
small screws (I forgot how long)
Drill
Saw
The cage is 3 grids wide x 2 grids deep x 3 grids high. So 42"w x 28"deep x 42" high
Cage walls and shelves:
[/b]First we zip-tied all the grids together, starting with the frontand back of cage, then sides. We then attached the sides to the backpart of the cage (don't attach the front until the end or else you willhave problems attaching the shelves)
After zip-tying the back and sides, you can now make the shelves.
Bottom shelf is 3 grids wide and 2 grids deep, making an L-shape, andis zip-tied on all corners to the back right of the cage where the 2ndrow of grids attach to the bottom row of grids(see photo)
Top shelf is almost the entire width and depth of the cage, but withone grid opening above the first level so the bunny can hop up anddown....
If you see the photos, it makes more sense.
You then pre-drill holes in the plywood to zip-tie them to the shelves and sides of the cage.
Measurements for the shelves are above.
You will need to saw a little bit to make the L-shape for the shelving and the top level.
(See photo)
***PLEASE NOTE:[/b] You DONT have to use plywood for theshelves. I used plywood covered with linoleum tiles before[/b] Ilearned about PEG BOARD. The linoleum is best for the base for easyspill cleanup, but my bunny likes the peg board better for the shelvessince it is a lot less slippery. She wouldnt even go on theshelves until I placed the peg board over the linoleum-covered shelves.
The peg board also comes in 4ft x 8ft sheets at Home Depot. It costabout $10 for a sheet. The peg board is inexpensive, has holes alreadyin it so you can just zip-tie them to the grids, and if you place itrough side up on the shelves, it provides traction for the bunnys feetand is not slippery at all! The cool thing is, the peg board is alsomade from compressed wood chips and is a lot safer to chew thanlinoleum tiles. (She cant really chew the base, so its ok to uselinoleum there)
I simply placed the peg board over the plywood shelves (rough side up)and zip tied them through the holes already drilled in the plywood. Ikept the plywood b/c I found it provides a little extra support for theshelves, but you really dont need it.
Place (1) 3/4"x 1 3/8" stick (cut to 28 inches in length) through the grid holes under the first shelf for support.
For the BASE:[/b]
The plywood was cut into 3 pieces: 1st piece for the base is 28"w x 42"h. The other 2 pieces are for the shelves.
Line the base with peel-n-stick linoleum tiles. I used a rolling pin to get the air bubbles out so they stick better.
You will then need 3 long sticks for the base edge, which keeps thecage from sliding off the base at the bottom. You need (2) 28 longsticks (3/4" x 1 3/8"long wood sticks ) for the sides of thebase and (1) 42 long stick for the back.
Leave the front clear so the door of the cage can swing open.
Pre-drill holes into the plywood and the sticks so they dont crack when you screw them in.
You then screw the sticks to the back and sides of the base, making an edge.
Screw the wheels onto the bottom of the base.
Make sure they are a little more in the middle of the base in case theplywood is a little bent, this way the wheels will be more likely totouch the floor and the cage wont wobble as much if the plywood isslightly uneven.
We also screwed another 42 long 3/4" x 1 3/8"wood stickunderneath the base of the cage just under where the front of your cagewill be for support. Since this is where your door will need to be ableto swing open, you cant have a lip on top, has to be underneath.
Also, screw holes in the base around the inner perimeter of the lipso that you can zip-tie the bottom of the cage to the base. You canmake 4 drill holes in the front of the base only if you want, since thebacks and sides will already have an edge. The front of the cage cant,because you need the door to open, so you can zip-tie the front grids(not the 2 for the door) to the base to keep the front bottom edge ofthe cage from buckling in or out.
Now, you are ready to attach the top of the cage and the FRONT of the cage.
For the FRONT:
Zip-tie 3 rows of grids, 3 grids across. Fasten them to the sides of the cage.
Leave the vertical middle 2 grids untied on the left sides, bottom andtop (keeping the 2 grids tied together in the middle and right sideonly-see photo). This will be your door.
Use 2 binder clips to hold the door shut.
For the TOP:
I zip tied 6 grids together (2 rows of 3 grids)
Then I zip-tied the BACK ONLY of the top to the back of the cage, DONOT TIE TO THE SIDES. You want the top to hinge open, so dont fastenthe sides or front.
Now you need 1 of your 42 long sticks. I drilled a hole on each endand stuck it through the grid holes going across the top MIDDLE of thecage. I zip-tied the stick to the sides of the cage to keep it fromslipping out. This provides support for the top grids andkeeps them from sagging down.
THEN, I got another 42 long stick, drilled 4 holes through it, 1 oneach end and 2 in the middle, and I zip tied it to the front edge ofthetop grids of the CAGE FRONT. This also provides moresupport and allows the top edge of the roof to lay on the top of thecage and not sink into the cage. (See photo)
I hold the top lid down with binder clips to keep the bunny from getting the top open.
Thats it!
Hope this made sense .
~Denise
What a lovely bunny with such a great personality. Iespecially love the cage. Any chance I can get the plans for it fromyou?
Blyre
Here are the plans for the cage:
45 - 14" x14" grids (Bed Bath and Beyond: $14.95 each)
1 large sheet (4 ft x 8 ft) of 1/2" thick plywood (Home Depot cut it tosize for free) for base and shelves. 1st piece (base)cut to 28w x42L; 2[suP]nd[/suP] piece (first shelf) cut to 28w x 28L;3[suP]rd[/suP] piece, for top level should be 28w x 42L
1 large sheet (4 ft x8 ft) of peg board for shelves (to lay above plywood-also cut for free at Home Depot)
Approx. 8-3/4" x 1 3/8"long wood sticksfor supporting the roof and shelves and to go around sides of base (notexactly sure how many were used, we cut them down to size. This sizealso fits in the grid holes. You can use a diff size, just measure thegrid holes to see what size you will need)
Zip ties
4 small casters (wheels) for base
Approx 20 -12" x 12" peel-n-stick linoleum tiles for baseonly (you don't have to use limoleum tiles, but it makes it easier toclean up any spilled water or urine if the bunny misses her litter box)
small screws (I forgot how long)
Drill
Saw
The cage is 3 grids wide x 2 grids deep x 3 grids high. So 42"w x 28"deep x 42" high
Cage walls and shelves:
[/b]First we zip-tied all the grids together, starting with the frontand back of cage, then sides. We then attached the sides to the backpart of the cage (don't attach the front until the end or else you willhave problems attaching the shelves)
After zip-tying the back and sides, you can now make the shelves.
Bottom shelf is 3 grids wide and 2 grids deep, making an L-shape, andis zip-tied on all corners to the back right of the cage where the 2ndrow of grids attach to the bottom row of grids(see photo)
Top shelf is almost the entire width and depth of the cage, but withone grid opening above the first level so the bunny can hop up anddown....
If you see the photos, it makes more sense.
You then pre-drill holes in the plywood to zip-tie them to the shelves and sides of the cage.
Measurements for the shelves are above.
You will need to saw a little bit to make the L-shape for the shelving and the top level.
(See photo)
***PLEASE NOTE:[/b] You DONT have to use plywood for theshelves. I used plywood covered with linoleum tiles before[/b] Ilearned about PEG BOARD. The linoleum is best for the base for easyspill cleanup, but my bunny likes the peg board better for the shelvessince it is a lot less slippery. She wouldnt even go on theshelves until I placed the peg board over the linoleum-covered shelves.
The peg board also comes in 4ft x 8ft sheets at Home Depot. It costabout $10 for a sheet. The peg board is inexpensive, has holes alreadyin it so you can just zip-tie them to the grids, and if you place itrough side up on the shelves, it provides traction for the bunnys feetand is not slippery at all! The cool thing is, the peg board is alsomade from compressed wood chips and is a lot safer to chew thanlinoleum tiles. (She cant really chew the base, so its ok to uselinoleum there)
I simply placed the peg board over the plywood shelves (rough side up)and zip tied them through the holes already drilled in the plywood. Ikept the plywood b/c I found it provides a little extra support for theshelves, but you really dont need it.
Place (1) 3/4"x 1 3/8" stick (cut to 28 inches in length) through the grid holes under the first shelf for support.
For the BASE:[/b]
The plywood was cut into 3 pieces: 1st piece for the base is 28"w x 42"h. The other 2 pieces are for the shelves.
Line the base with peel-n-stick linoleum tiles. I used a rolling pin to get the air bubbles out so they stick better.
You will then need 3 long sticks for the base edge, which keeps thecage from sliding off the base at the bottom. You need (2) 28 longsticks (3/4" x 1 3/8"long wood sticks ) for the sides of thebase and (1) 42 long stick for the back.
Leave the front clear so the door of the cage can swing open.
Pre-drill holes into the plywood and the sticks so they dont crack when you screw them in.
You then screw the sticks to the back and sides of the base, making an edge.
Screw the wheels onto the bottom of the base.
Make sure they are a little more in the middle of the base in case theplywood is a little bent, this way the wheels will be more likely totouch the floor and the cage wont wobble as much if the plywood isslightly uneven.
We also screwed another 42 long 3/4" x 1 3/8"wood stickunderneath the base of the cage just under where the front of your cagewill be for support. Since this is where your door will need to be ableto swing open, you cant have a lip on top, has to be underneath.
Also, screw holes in the base around the inner perimeter of the lipso that you can zip-tie the bottom of the cage to the base. You canmake 4 drill holes in the front of the base only if you want, since thebacks and sides will already have an edge. The front of the cage cant,because you need the door to open, so you can zip-tie the front grids(not the 2 for the door) to the base to keep the front bottom edge ofthe cage from buckling in or out.
Now, you are ready to attach the top of the cage and the FRONT of the cage.
For the FRONT:
Zip-tie 3 rows of grids, 3 grids across. Fasten them to the sides of the cage.
Leave the vertical middle 2 grids untied on the left sides, bottom andtop (keeping the 2 grids tied together in the middle and right sideonly-see photo). This will be your door.
Use 2 binder clips to hold the door shut.
For the TOP:
I zip tied 6 grids together (2 rows of 3 grids)
Then I zip-tied the BACK ONLY of the top to the back of the cage, DONOT TIE TO THE SIDES. You want the top to hinge open, so dont fastenthe sides or front.
Now you need 1 of your 42 long sticks. I drilled a hole on each endand stuck it through the grid holes going across the top MIDDLE of thecage. I zip-tied the stick to the sides of the cage to keep it fromslipping out. This provides support for the top grids andkeeps them from sagging down.
THEN, I got another 42 long stick, drilled 4 holes through it, 1 oneach end and 2 in the middle, and I zip tied it to the front edge ofthetop grids of the CAGE FRONT. This also provides moresupport and allows the top edge of the roof to lay on the top of thecage and not sink into the cage. (See photo)
I hold the top lid down with binder clips to keep the bunny from getting the top open.
Thats it!
Hope this made sense .
~Denise
Blyre
Well-Known Member
Too cool, thanks! Munchkin is going to love this and I think I'm going to love the cost savings...hehe.
Blyre
Blyre
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
Blyre wrote:
The whole thing cost about $100!
Toocool, thanks! Munchkin is going to love this and I think I'm going tolove the cost savings...hehe.
Blyre
The whole thing cost about $100!
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
Tuesday, 5/23/06:
Well, yesterday Trix gave us quite a scare! She was running around inher room one minute, then limping the next. We thought her left rearleg was broken, as she was hopping on 3 legs and not using her back legat all.
In a panic, we rushed her to the vet, which stayed open just for us. This vet is an hour away, and specializes in rabbits....
Turns out our baby somehow knocked her knee cap out of place (probablyjumping off the bed) and the trauma caused the ligament that holds theknee in place to stretch. So now she has a loose ligament and her kneecap is moving around freely.
Luckily, she is a growing baby and her recovery time is only about 2 weeks, if all goes well.
The vet took some X-rays and gave us some pain meds to give her for thenext 5 days. She is also confined to her small starter cage for thenext 2 weeks until her ligament tightens back up.
Even though she is confined to her cage, she seems to be happy, andeven tried to binky in her cage this morning. She must like theattention,too...as my hubby and I keep taking turns "visiting" our sickpatient every 10 mins. LOL!
She also likes the fact that she now gets her pain meds (liquid form)mixed with some mashed banana....and I use the word "like" lightly. Ihave NEVER seen an animal gobble up a treat like she does! WOW....ifshe only knew that her meds were in there.
So, for now, little Trixie is out of commission. In the meantime, weare going to try and build some steps or a platform for her to jump onand off of the bed in what WAS our guest bedroom, but is now the BunnyPalace. lol.....
Well, yesterday Trix gave us quite a scare! She was running around inher room one minute, then limping the next. We thought her left rearleg was broken, as she was hopping on 3 legs and not using her back legat all.
In a panic, we rushed her to the vet, which stayed open just for us. This vet is an hour away, and specializes in rabbits....
Turns out our baby somehow knocked her knee cap out of place (probablyjumping off the bed) and the trauma caused the ligament that holds theknee in place to stretch. So now she has a loose ligament and her kneecap is moving around freely.
Luckily, she is a growing baby and her recovery time is only about 2 weeks, if all goes well.
The vet took some X-rays and gave us some pain meds to give her for thenext 5 days. She is also confined to her small starter cage for thenext 2 weeks until her ligament tightens back up.
Even though she is confined to her cage, she seems to be happy, andeven tried to binky in her cage this morning. She must like theattention,too...as my hubby and I keep taking turns "visiting" our sickpatient every 10 mins. LOL!
She also likes the fact that she now gets her pain meds (liquid form)mixed with some mashed banana....and I use the word "like" lightly. Ihave NEVER seen an animal gobble up a treat like she does! WOW....ifshe only knew that her meds were in there.
So, for now, little Trixie is out of commission. In the meantime, weare going to try and build some steps or a platform for her to jump onand off of the bed in what WAS our guest bedroom, but is now the BunnyPalace. lol.....
Poor little girl! At least she is good at takingher meds, and is getting plenty of love and care from Mom and Dad. Giveher kisses from me.
Jan
Jan
bunnee mom
Well-Known Member
Trixie.... :inlove:
What an adorable bunny! I love the mansion you built hertoo. I printed out your instructions for futureuse. Right now our spoiled little bunny has the run of almostthe entire house, so a cage isn't necessary....but maybe for the nextbunny.
This is my favorite pic of Trixie!
What an adorable bunny! I love the mansion you built hertoo. I printed out your instructions for futureuse. Right now our spoiled little bunny has the run of almostthe entire house, so a cage isn't necessary....but maybe for the nextbunny.
This is my favorite pic of Trixie!
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
bunnee mom wrote:
Thank you! For some reason, all I can see is a red "x" instead of a picso I dont know which pic u r referring too. I think my puter at work iswacky....
Thank you! For some reason, all I can see is a red "x" instead of a picso I dont know which pic u r referring too. I think my puter at work iswacky....
Flopsy
Well-Known Member
Its a picture of Trix on the top level of herhome with her legs hanging off. I think its funny that Fluffyand Trixie have the same toys. I like the grass matttoo. Does she like do dig on it alot?
-Ashley & Flopsy:bunnyangel: & Fluffy:dutch
-Ashley
& Flopsy:bunnyangel: & Fluffy:dutch
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
Flopsy wrote:
Ooooohhh...THAT pic! LOLOL...my hubby snapped that one. It cracks meup. Looks like she's sunbathing on the penthouse level! lol.
She really likes the grass mat, and sits on it and chews/digsonit a lot. Unfortunately, she peed on it last night. COuldbe that it was too close to her litter box. She's in a smaller cage b/cshe hurt her leg....she'll be alright, but the mat didn't quite makeit. lolol....
Itsa picture of Trix on the top level of her home with her legs hangingoff. I think its funny that Fluffy and Trixie have the sametoys. I like the grass matt too. Does she like dodig on it alot?
-Ashley
Ooooohhh...THAT pic! LOLOL...my hubby snapped that one. It cracks meup. Looks like she's sunbathing on the penthouse level! lol.
She really likes the grass mat, and sits on it and chews/digsonit a lot. Unfortunately, she peed on it last night. COuldbe that it was too close to her litter box. She's in a smaller cage b/cshe hurt her leg....she'll be alright, but the mat didn't quite makeit. lolol....
daisy052104
Well-Known Member
How's Trixie doing? Haven't seen an update on her knee unless you posted it somewhere else. Hope all is going well for her.
Flopsy
Well-Known Member
Yes. I bet you feel sorry forher. I know I did when I moved Flopsy into a smallercage. He wanted to play so0o bad. Hoping for aspeedy recovery!
-Ashley :bestwishes & Flopsy :bunnyangel: & Fluffy :zzzzz
-Ashley :bestwishes & Flopsy :bunnyangel: & Fluffy :zzzzz
thricekitty
Member
How did it only cost around $100 if you buy 45grids at $14.95 a piece? I am wanting to make Burton thiscage, but I don't see how it adds up to only around $100.Maybe there is a number added somewhere it should be?
peapoo_bunny
Well-Known Member
i think she got them for 14.95 a box...we got about 25 grids for $14..and peapoo and peteys cage was only around $100
...we got about 25 grids for $14..and peapoo and peteys cage was only around $100
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
peapoo_bunny wrote:
That's correct! It's $14.95 for a box of grids. Not PER GRID. Holy cow that would be $$$$$!
i think she got them for 14.95 a box
That's correct! It's $14.95 for a box of grids. Not PER GRID. Holy cow that would be $$$$$!
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
My little Trixie was hot to trot yesterday! Binkies all over the place...attacking her binky blankie...gettin' into EVERYTHING...how can ya NOT love her? LOL.
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
munchin on some hay....
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
the eating machine....
TrixieRabbit
Well-Known Member
munch,munch....
