Pipp
Well-Known Member
Feel free to add to this post. (Tips and bunny gardens and vet care will be especially appreciated).
:thanks:
RECESSION-PROOFING YOUR RABBITS
Rabbits can be among the most inexpensive pets to feed with a little effort and creativity.
Vegetables
- the healthiest and the least expensive bunny diet item can be a large, varied fresh and FREE bunny vegetable salad courtesy of your grocery storeâs produce manager (and Mother Nature).
- ask the Produce Manager for fresh but not salable sections of the âcompostâ vegetables, like carrot tops, beet greens, celery and broccoli leaves, radish tops, parsley and cilantro stems, the outer cabbage leaves, fennel leaves and other cast offs. If youâre a good customer and friendly, most produce stores will gladly save these items for you.
- also, salad bars and other food venues can provide the âbonesâ (as JimD aptly calls them) â the cores of lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage heads, herb, spinach and other stems that can nicely âfluff upâ a bunny salad.
- favorite bunny treats include grape vines, berry leaves and similar items that may be available from gardeners or commercial growers in your area.
- bunny salads can be augmented with âsafeâ grass and dandelions (safe = pesticide-free, pulled not cut, and unsoiled by other animals).
- spring is coming and so are farmer's markets. Depending on where you are, veggies here might be cheaper than in grocery stores. Again, also, ask about getting the leafy greens from veggies such as carrots, radishes, beets, etc. that people rarely eat.
Bunny Gardens
- one large dill plant can provide a daily herbal treat and is easy to grow. Fresh kale, lettuce and other vegetables are also easy to grow and can provide season-long fine dining (in the rabbit world).
- even if you don't have space for a garden, some herbs such as basil and mint grow great in pots and grow back quickly, making cheap year-round herbs available. Even carrots can be grown in a tub on a balcony or porch.
photo courtesy of The Rabbit House Blog
- bunnies love many flowers, for example: nasturtiums (edible flowers and leaves, for both buns and humans), salad burnett (same, lovely red flowers), pineapple sage (same), ornamental kale, violets and violas, pot marigold, roses (leaves, petals, rosehips are all edible), "Red Rubin" and other ornamental Basil, golden sage, Anise Hyssope, Lovage (celery-like taste), Chervil, Chamomile, Shingiku (Japanese edible chrysanthemum), Pansy.
Weeds, Grass and Trees
- seek out wildlife-free and pesticide-free areas with dandelion and grass, two great bunny staples. Research your geographic location for other edible plants.
- oat, barley and wheat grass seeds are cheap and easy to grow in your own large trays where you can be sure its free from pesticides (and animal urine and feces), you don't need to buy expensive 'cat grass' from pet stores.
- organic fruit tree branches, especially apple and pear, are popular as are other trees like willow. (Check the 'safe' lists). Organic landscapers are happy to let you know where they're pruning. Just bake them in the oven for an hour to dry them out and kill any bacteria and they're safe and delicious!
Hay
- Hay is an inexpensive universal tool for nutrition, waste disposal and entertainment. Timothy or other good grass hays can be bought from horse farms and feed stores in bales weighing anywhere from 40 to 120 pounds for $5 to $20.
- If a small truck isnât available and a small car is the only option, itâs worth breaking up a bale and filling as many industrial garbage bags and/or Rubbermaid containers as possible, leaving behind what doesnât fit. Even ending up with a half bale is worth the savings.
- check with equestrian centers, riding clubs, farms with horses and even local zoos for hay supplies. Many will let you come and scoop up the leftover hay when they break up their bales, or let you have a flake or two for small change.
- hay farmers and feed stores will also often let you scoop up clean loose hay into bags or small storage bins for free.
Litter
- newspaper and the 'fines' from hay (the dust and small stem pieces) is a very functional and economical litter. And its virtually free.
- you can buy large bags of wood pellet or aspen shaving litter at feed or farm stores, including pellets for horse stalls. These usually cost around $5 for 40 lbs, instead of the more expensive versions at pet stores.
Food Pellets
â if you're using the 'Cadillac' of pellets, the Oxbow timothy hay brand, check cheaper alternatives like Martins Less Active (in Canada), Zupreem, Kaytee Complete and others which are also timothy-based with high fibre counts.
- if you're feeding alfalfa pellets, many feed stores sell 40lb bags of reasonably good pellets for just $10. Cheap alfalfa pellets are fine in very small amounts (along with hay and vegetables) as long as the rabbit isnât overweight or has calcium issues (bladder sludge, kidney stones, etc).
- mix inexpensive pellets with pricier brands.
Suggestions: Form a small local âbunny co-opâ for buying and splitting hay, pellets, bedding and even vegetables with other bunny slaves in your area.
Advertise for participants on Craigslist.com and on local / neighborhood community boards, and post in the appropriate 'Locations' section on RO.
Housing
- traditional pet store bunny cages are expensive and way too small, and most are very uncomfortable because rabbits need the security of a âhideaway and also prefer a solid roof over their heads so they instinctively feel protected against hawks and other predators.
- they also need more than one level to stretch their legs in a hopping motion a few horizontal steps don't provide the proper movement.
- cheap wire cube shelving can easily be assembled with plastic ties and made into all shapes and sizes of multi-level cages and pens, for half the price of a store-bought cage.
- a 'wanted' ad in Craigslist and other community boards looking for used cube shelving often yields good results (especially when students are finishing their terms for the summer). Also keep a lookout at yard sales and second hand stores.
- old furniture such as discarded dressers, cupboards, credenzas, tables and cabinets can be easily converted into innovative and roomy bunny homes.
- cardboard boxes make excellent disposable litter boxes and hideaways.
Spaying/Neutering
- shop for price comparisons in all areas you have access to (although more important than price will be the vetâs previous rabbit spay and neuter experience).
- call your local rabbit rescue. They may know of inexpensive vets or even bunny-savvy spay and neuter clinics. (If youâre truly poor and your female rabbit needs an emergency spay or you have a male who could potentially impregnate females on the premises, the rescue may be able to arrange a discount).
- donât scrimp on things like pain meds or anesthetics, but the vet bill may include feedings and other general care that youâre able to do at home, so ask for an itemized estimate/invoice prior to agreeing to the surgery and ask for adjustments where possible.
- of course adopting an already spayed/neutered rabbit from a rescue in the first place is usually the most cost-efficient way around this one. Most rescues receive low-cost surgeries and can offer an adoption fee priced much lower than the cost of surgery on a non-rescue rabbit.
Vet Care
- rabbits can be very inexpensive pets to feed and house, but the funds saved on those areas may well end up going to vet care. Rabbits are notoriously bad for telling you 'Where does it hurt?' and diagnostics can get pricey. However, treating some grass roots ailments first and escalating treatment and diagnostics as each cause is eliminated can ultimately save money.
- talk to the vet about ordering one test/treatment at a time instead of multiple tests at once. This may save on costly lab work and x-ray charges, although this will be negated if the vet charges exam fees for each test. (They shouldn't).
- ask in advance if the vet you want to see will write prescriptions that can be filled at low-cost outside pharmacies. It may be more cost effective to see a slightly more expensive vet who will allow you cheaper meds.
- share larger containers of common medications with your bunny co-op group and keep track of who may have left-over medications on hand not yet expired.
- some vets won't charge for re-checks after treatment. Research this in advance as well.
- research rabbit-savvy vets and ask questions to determine their knowledge in advance of the appointments. Don't be afraid to send them a questionnaire. Many many rabbits end up needing a second appointment elsewhere which doubles the cost of treatment.
- SHOP AROUND. Vet prices can vary drastically from area to area. It may be worth a longer drive.
- if a rabbit needs an emergency vet visit and extended care beyond the emergency hours, compare the costs of moving the rabbit to a regular rabbit-savvy vet as soon as one opens.
Additional: Emergency Care
- consider purchasing the equipment and supplies needed to administer your own subcutaneous fluids, learn how to use them and have them on hand in your first aid kit.
- also consider purchasing inexpensive injectable penicillin meant for farm animals from a feed store and familiarize yourself with dosages and giving injections.
- if a vet is about to administer fluids or prescribe antibiotics, make sure they know that you have these supplies at home and would prefer to do your own if possible. If it's the right treatment, most will agree and the services on your bill will be reduced.
NB: DO NOT USE EITHER WITHOUT A VET'S PERMISSION!!!!
:thanks:
RECESSION-PROOFING YOUR RABBITS
Rabbits can be among the most inexpensive pets to feed with a little effort and creativity.
Vegetables
- the healthiest and the least expensive bunny diet item can be a large, varied fresh and FREE bunny vegetable salad courtesy of your grocery storeâs produce manager (and Mother Nature).
- ask the Produce Manager for fresh but not salable sections of the âcompostâ vegetables, like carrot tops, beet greens, celery and broccoli leaves, radish tops, parsley and cilantro stems, the outer cabbage leaves, fennel leaves and other cast offs. If youâre a good customer and friendly, most produce stores will gladly save these items for you.
- also, salad bars and other food venues can provide the âbonesâ (as JimD aptly calls them) â the cores of lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage heads, herb, spinach and other stems that can nicely âfluff upâ a bunny salad.
- favorite bunny treats include grape vines, berry leaves and similar items that may be available from gardeners or commercial growers in your area.
- bunny salads can be augmented with âsafeâ grass and dandelions (safe = pesticide-free, pulled not cut, and unsoiled by other animals).
- spring is coming and so are farmer's markets. Depending on where you are, veggies here might be cheaper than in grocery stores. Again, also, ask about getting the leafy greens from veggies such as carrots, radishes, beets, etc. that people rarely eat.
Bunny Gardens
- one large dill plant can provide a daily herbal treat and is easy to grow. Fresh kale, lettuce and other vegetables are also easy to grow and can provide season-long fine dining (in the rabbit world).
- even if you don't have space for a garden, some herbs such as basil and mint grow great in pots and grow back quickly, making cheap year-round herbs available. Even carrots can be grown in a tub on a balcony or porch.
photo courtesy of The Rabbit House Blog
- bunnies love many flowers, for example: nasturtiums (edible flowers and leaves, for both buns and humans), salad burnett (same, lovely red flowers), pineapple sage (same), ornamental kale, violets and violas, pot marigold, roses (leaves, petals, rosehips are all edible), "Red Rubin" and other ornamental Basil, golden sage, Anise Hyssope, Lovage (celery-like taste), Chervil, Chamomile, Shingiku (Japanese edible chrysanthemum), Pansy.
Weeds, Grass and Trees
- seek out wildlife-free and pesticide-free areas with dandelion and grass, two great bunny staples. Research your geographic location for other edible plants.
- oat, barley and wheat grass seeds are cheap and easy to grow in your own large trays where you can be sure its free from pesticides (and animal urine and feces), you don't need to buy expensive 'cat grass' from pet stores.
- organic fruit tree branches, especially apple and pear, are popular as are other trees like willow. (Check the 'safe' lists). Organic landscapers are happy to let you know where they're pruning. Just bake them in the oven for an hour to dry them out and kill any bacteria and they're safe and delicious!
Hay
- Hay is an inexpensive universal tool for nutrition, waste disposal and entertainment. Timothy or other good grass hays can be bought from horse farms and feed stores in bales weighing anywhere from 40 to 120 pounds for $5 to $20.
- If a small truck isnât available and a small car is the only option, itâs worth breaking up a bale and filling as many industrial garbage bags and/or Rubbermaid containers as possible, leaving behind what doesnât fit. Even ending up with a half bale is worth the savings.
- check with equestrian centers, riding clubs, farms with horses and even local zoos for hay supplies. Many will let you come and scoop up the leftover hay when they break up their bales, or let you have a flake or two for small change.
- hay farmers and feed stores will also often let you scoop up clean loose hay into bags or small storage bins for free.
Litter
- newspaper and the 'fines' from hay (the dust and small stem pieces) is a very functional and economical litter. And its virtually free.
- you can buy large bags of wood pellet or aspen shaving litter at feed or farm stores, including pellets for horse stalls. These usually cost around $5 for 40 lbs, instead of the more expensive versions at pet stores.
Food Pellets
â if you're using the 'Cadillac' of pellets, the Oxbow timothy hay brand, check cheaper alternatives like Martins Less Active (in Canada), Zupreem, Kaytee Complete and others which are also timothy-based with high fibre counts.
- if you're feeding alfalfa pellets, many feed stores sell 40lb bags of reasonably good pellets for just $10. Cheap alfalfa pellets are fine in very small amounts (along with hay and vegetables) as long as the rabbit isnât overweight or has calcium issues (bladder sludge, kidney stones, etc).
- mix inexpensive pellets with pricier brands.
Suggestions: Form a small local âbunny co-opâ for buying and splitting hay, pellets, bedding and even vegetables with other bunny slaves in your area.
Advertise for participants on Craigslist.com and on local / neighborhood community boards, and post in the appropriate 'Locations' section on RO.
Housing
- traditional pet store bunny cages are expensive and way too small, and most are very uncomfortable because rabbits need the security of a âhideaway and also prefer a solid roof over their heads so they instinctively feel protected against hawks and other predators.
- they also need more than one level to stretch their legs in a hopping motion a few horizontal steps don't provide the proper movement.
- cheap wire cube shelving can easily be assembled with plastic ties and made into all shapes and sizes of multi-level cages and pens, for half the price of a store-bought cage.
- a 'wanted' ad in Craigslist and other community boards looking for used cube shelving often yields good results (especially when students are finishing their terms for the summer). Also keep a lookout at yard sales and second hand stores.
- old furniture such as discarded dressers, cupboards, credenzas, tables and cabinets can be easily converted into innovative and roomy bunny homes.
- cardboard boxes make excellent disposable litter boxes and hideaways.
Spaying/Neutering
- shop for price comparisons in all areas you have access to (although more important than price will be the vetâs previous rabbit spay and neuter experience).
- call your local rabbit rescue. They may know of inexpensive vets or even bunny-savvy spay and neuter clinics. (If youâre truly poor and your female rabbit needs an emergency spay or you have a male who could potentially impregnate females on the premises, the rescue may be able to arrange a discount).
- donât scrimp on things like pain meds or anesthetics, but the vet bill may include feedings and other general care that youâre able to do at home, so ask for an itemized estimate/invoice prior to agreeing to the surgery and ask for adjustments where possible.
- of course adopting an already spayed/neutered rabbit from a rescue in the first place is usually the most cost-efficient way around this one. Most rescues receive low-cost surgeries and can offer an adoption fee priced much lower than the cost of surgery on a non-rescue rabbit.
Vet Care
- rabbits can be very inexpensive pets to feed and house, but the funds saved on those areas may well end up going to vet care. Rabbits are notoriously bad for telling you 'Where does it hurt?' and diagnostics can get pricey. However, treating some grass roots ailments first and escalating treatment and diagnostics as each cause is eliminated can ultimately save money.
- talk to the vet about ordering one test/treatment at a time instead of multiple tests at once. This may save on costly lab work and x-ray charges, although this will be negated if the vet charges exam fees for each test. (They shouldn't).
- ask in advance if the vet you want to see will write prescriptions that can be filled at low-cost outside pharmacies. It may be more cost effective to see a slightly more expensive vet who will allow you cheaper meds.
- share larger containers of common medications with your bunny co-op group and keep track of who may have left-over medications on hand not yet expired.
- some vets won't charge for re-checks after treatment. Research this in advance as well.
- research rabbit-savvy vets and ask questions to determine their knowledge in advance of the appointments. Don't be afraid to send them a questionnaire. Many many rabbits end up needing a second appointment elsewhere which doubles the cost of treatment.
- SHOP AROUND. Vet prices can vary drastically from area to area. It may be worth a longer drive.
- if a rabbit needs an emergency vet visit and extended care beyond the emergency hours, compare the costs of moving the rabbit to a regular rabbit-savvy vet as soon as one opens.
Additional: Emergency Care
- consider purchasing the equipment and supplies needed to administer your own subcutaneous fluids, learn how to use them and have them on hand in your first aid kit.
- also consider purchasing inexpensive injectable penicillin meant for farm animals from a feed store and familiarize yourself with dosages and giving injections.
- if a vet is about to administer fluids or prescribe antibiotics, make sure they know that you have these supplies at home and would prefer to do your own if possible. If it's the right treatment, most will agree and the services on your bill will be reduced.
NB: DO NOT USE EITHER WITHOUT A VET'S PERMISSION!!!!
