AriaDragonfly
Member
So now what? We where told they where both male, apparently not. There are now 4 baby bunnies in the cage. Any help would be really appreciated!
Help! Our two "male" rabbits just had babies
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Pipp
Well-Known Member
First off, take the boy out ASAP. (Do you know which one is the boy?)
Other than that, take a deep breath and go find a shoe box or something like it. You need something about two to four-inches high (at least on one side), maybe a foot square and put the babies and all the nesting material inside.
Did she build a nest?
sas :?
Other than that, take a deep breath and go find a shoe box or something like it. You need something about two to four-inches high (at least on one side), maybe a foot square and put the babies and all the nesting material inside.
Did she build a nest?
sas :?
Korr_and_Sophie
Well-Known Member
Separate them NOW. The female can get pregnant right away and is probably pregnant again now. You should be able to see the testicles on the male.
Make sure all the kits are in a nest of some sort. The mother (doe) should have made a nest, but she might not have. If she did, you can put it in a shoe box and add some bedding on the bottom. If she hasn't, you should make one using shaving, hay and fur from the doe. They need to be in a nest to keep warm, a nest box helps keep them contained in the nest.
Young rabbits can be difficult to sex properly, even for experienced people.
Someone with more experience should come along soon to help with the actual raising of the kits.
Make sure all the kits are in a nest of some sort. The mother (doe) should have made a nest, but she might not have. If she did, you can put it in a shoe box and add some bedding on the bottom. If she hasn't, you should make one using shaving, hay and fur from the doe. They need to be in a nest to keep warm, a nest box helps keep them contained in the nest.
Young rabbits can be difficult to sex properly, even for experienced people.
Someone with more experience should come along soon to help with the actual raising of the kits.
Happi Bun
Well-Known Member
I would separate the male from mom and babies immediately. There is the possibility of them both being females and one was pregnant before being in your care (depending when you got them). Either way they need to be separated for the babies safety. Do you know which bunny is the mother?
AriaDragonfly
Member
They took a pillow we put into the cage and ripped all the stuffing out of it on the bottom level of the cage and made a nest. I'll try and figure out who the male is now.
AriaDragonfly
Member
We've had them for over a year, which is why this is so surprising.
AriaDragonfly
Member
Kuroi Usagi is apparently the father. Fortunately we have an extra cage so we've put him into that one.
Pipp
Well-Known Member
Can you put your location in your profile? Thanks!
How are the babies?
What breed are they? How old are they? Are they related?
sas :bunnydance:
How are the babies?
What breed are they? How old are they? Are they related?
sas :bunnydance:
AriaDragonfly
Member
They look fine, stomachs are full and they look plump. If I had to guess from the info I've gotten off the internet they look around a week old, they've been hidden in the bottom of the cage under all the fluff. They have fur and their eyes look like they are starting to open. We keep the rabbits in the living room with us in a large cage with a high sided bottom.
Small mixed breed (3-5 pounds) Mom is cream brown, and kuroi usagi is black (hence his name which means black bunny in Japanese, original I know) normal fur, up ears.
Small mixed breed (3-5 pounds) Mom is cream brown, and kuroi usagi is black (hence his name which means black bunny in Japanese, original I know) normal fur, up ears.
Pipp
Well-Known Member
If the stuffing is foam or something else synthetic, I'd replace it with paper towels, bits of hay and fur. Don't think its a good idea to have it there when they get much older.
The boy has been in with the girl for a week? :shock: You'll quite possibly have another litter within 30 days. I'm going to move this to the 'Rabbitry' so the breeders can comment on that. Some seasons are more 'prolific' than others.
In one respect it's a good thing they weren't both males, they could have done serious damage or even killed each other if both were intact. Intact males usually will start fighting at some point.
sas :clover:
The boy has been in with the girl for a week? :shock: You'll quite possibly have another litter within 30 days. I'm going to move this to the 'Rabbitry' so the breeders can comment on that. Some seasons are more 'prolific' than others.
In one respect it's a good thing they weren't both males, they could have done serious damage or even killed each other if both were intact. Intact males usually will start fighting at some point.
sas :clover:
AriaDragonfly
Member
Well I read about that, and was watching them for fighting with an extra cage on hand in case, but when they never did and looked like they bonded I figured that we just lucked out.
The stuffing is cotton, is that okay?
Also we've had them for over a year and they where adults when we rescued them. Could he have slow swimmers? Or we've just been lucky?
The stuffing is cotton, is that okay?
Also we've had them for over a year and they where adults when we rescued them. Could he have slow swimmers? Or we've just been lucky?
mistyjr
Well-Known Member
Congrats mommy! Pictures soon if you can
BlueGiants
Well-Known Member
Some does take longer to mature, you're girl may not have been "ready" until now. If their eyes are opening, the babiesare about 10-12 days old. And yes, there is a very big chance she is pregnant again. TheDoesare most fertile immediately after kindling (giving birth).
If the babies are 10 days old, you could have another litter in 3 weeks.
The babies will start eating the same food as momma after their eyes are open, but will continue to nurse off momma, usually twice a day. Normally, you should leave the babies with the mother for 6 weeks, but if shehas another litter you will need to wean the older litter immediately and remove them from the cage. (You may need another cage soon, to hold the babies!)
My suggestion would be to get the buck neutered, if you want him to live with her again. After neutering, he has to remain seperate from her (and any other does!) for 8 weeks. After 8 weeks, (assuming all the babies are grown up and out of the cage), you can put him back with her.
Start looking for good homes for the babies! Don't promise any of them to anyone, until they are weaned. (I'm hoping that they all make it, but just in case, don't promise them to anyone just yet.)
It would be lovely if you could post photo's! We all love baby pictures!
If the babies are 10 days old, you could have another litter in 3 weeks.
The babies will start eating the same food as momma after their eyes are open, but will continue to nurse off momma, usually twice a day. Normally, you should leave the babies with the mother for 6 weeks, but if shehas another litter you will need to wean the older litter immediately and remove them from the cage. (You may need another cage soon, to hold the babies!)
My suggestion would be to get the buck neutered, if you want him to live with her again. After neutering, he has to remain seperate from her (and any other does!) for 8 weeks. After 8 weeks, (assuming all the babies are grown up and out of the cage), you can put him back with her.
Start looking for good homes for the babies! Don't promise any of them to anyone, until they are weaned. (I'm hoping that they all make it, but just in case, don't promise them to anyone just yet.)
It would be lovely if you could post photo's! We all love baby pictures!
AriaDragonfly
Member
We will have to wait on getting him neutered as we are moving in July so finances are a bit tight, but it will be on the top of the list after we are settled in our new jobs. (This surprise couldn't have come at a worse time, our male cat just needed surgery that cost us 800$ and our big move is coming up, ah well such is life, doesn't wait to be convenient) So he'll have to stay in the other cage for the time being.
Yes I did not plan to adopt them out until 8 weeks of age. I was thinking of including a carrying cage, and a bag of food, what would an appropriate adoption fee be? Since I wouldn't want to have them end up as snake food! Also any advice on screening people would be appreciated.
I feel so horrible about all this, All our other pets are neutered, spayed and micro chipped, I just didn't think with two males it would ever be a problem. I planned to get them neutered anyway, because of the health reasons but then when they never fought I just figured we lucked out, stupid I know, should have gotten it done there isn't any excuse. Then not even noticing the babies until yesterday, I feed and change their water every day I can't believe I didn't notice it at all.
Here's one of the babys, we have two mixed orangish brown and blackish, one white and grayish one and a dark grey one.
Yes I did not plan to adopt them out until 8 weeks of age. I was thinking of including a carrying cage, and a bag of food, what would an appropriate adoption fee be? Since I wouldn't want to have them end up as snake food! Also any advice on screening people would be appreciated.
I feel so horrible about all this, All our other pets are neutered, spayed and micro chipped, I just didn't think with two males it would ever be a problem. I planned to get them neutered anyway, because of the health reasons but then when they never fought I just figured we lucked out, stupid I know, should have gotten it done there isn't any excuse. Then not even noticing the babies until yesterday, I feed and change their water every day I can't believe I didn't notice it at all.
Here's one of the babys, we have two mixed orangish brown and blackish, one white and grayish one and a dark grey one.
BlueGiants
Well-Known Member
Awwww... pretty baby! I'd guess it's about 7-8 days old. Eyes will open soon. Don't be surprised if you get some "up" ears and some "down" ears! And you may get a "helicopter ears"... kind of hovering in the middle!
Perfect! You shouldn't adopt them out until they are 8 weeks of age. And yes, you should ask for an adoption fee so they don't wind up being "used" for the wrong things. I always give a 5 lbs. bag of food with any rabbit that leaves here. I tell people to keep them on my food for two to threedays, and if they are going to switch to a different food, to gradually start mixing the new food with my food, to switch them slowly. It is better for their digestive system.
If they don't have greens as babies, I tell people to avoid fresh fruits and vege;s until they are4 months old. And then gradually introduce them (like you would introduce new food to a baby).
Yeah, stuff seems to happen when we least expect it... or can afford it. As long as you keep them separate for now, it'll be good. And if she doesn't deliver another litter within 33 days AFTER you separated them, she didn't get pregnant again!
Keep in mind, the babies can and will be able to start breeding (even back to Mom!!!!) around 16-18 weeks... (4 to 4 1/2 months of age!). So get them in new homes or learn to sex them and separate them.
Edited to add: There are links here to help you learn to sex the babies... But make sure you double check them as they mature... some young bucks will "present" as a doe when they are very young... and we all make mistakes. (We call it getting "Whacked by the Gender Fairy".... LOL!) I had "3" does together at8 weeks, suddenly at 12 weeks when I went to send one to a new home, it was a boy! :embarrassed:OOPS! Always double check. :shock2:
Perfect! You shouldn't adopt them out until they are 8 weeks of age. And yes, you should ask for an adoption fee so they don't wind up being "used" for the wrong things. I always give a 5 lbs. bag of food with any rabbit that leaves here. I tell people to keep them on my food for two to threedays, and if they are going to switch to a different food, to gradually start mixing the new food with my food, to switch them slowly. It is better for their digestive system.
If they don't have greens as babies, I tell people to avoid fresh fruits and vege;s until they are4 months old. And then gradually introduce them (like you would introduce new food to a baby).
Yeah, stuff seems to happen when we least expect it... or can afford it. As long as you keep them separate for now, it'll be good. And if she doesn't deliver another litter within 33 days AFTER you separated them, she didn't get pregnant again!
Keep in mind, the babies can and will be able to start breeding (even back to Mom!!!!) around 16-18 weeks... (4 to 4 1/2 months of age!). So get them in new homes or learn to sex them and separate them.
Edited to add: There are links here to help you learn to sex the babies... But make sure you double check them as they mature... some young bucks will "present" as a doe when they are very young... and we all make mistakes. (We call it getting "Whacked by the Gender Fairy".... LOL!) I had "3" does together at8 weeks, suddenly at 12 weeks when I went to send one to a new home, it was a boy! :embarrassed:OOPS! Always double check. :shock2:
AriaDragonfly
Member
Thank you for your help, I checked bunsky again and she is indeed the mom, though I was pretty sure since both my boyfriend and I have seen kuroi usagis male genital. Though it is a bit surprising as she is a bit larger then him, and I've read that in rabbits generally the male is bigger?
Now I just have to make sure my boyfriend doesn't get too attached to any of them ^^() or all of them. We live comfortably but not comfortably enough to afford 6 rabbits! (especially on top of the 4 cats we already have -.- he had two and I had two it was like the Brady bunch haha) All I can see in my head is vet bills and other costs that most people tend to "forget"
Now I just have to make sure my boyfriend doesn't get too attached to any of them ^^() or all of them. We live comfortably but not comfortably enough to afford 6 rabbits! (especially on top of the 4 cats we already have -.- he had two and I had two it was like the Brady bunch haha) All I can see in my head is vet bills and other costs that most people tend to "forget"
BlueGiants
Well-Known Member
Generally, the Does are larger than the Bucks in Rabbits... so that's about right size wise!
Yeah, a lot of people want to keep a lot of animals (They are such good Companions!) but forget the cost of individual care. (LOL! "LOVE" gets expensive!) :inlove:
Yeah, a lot of people want to keep a lot of animals (They are such good Companions!) but forget the cost of individual care. (LOL! "LOVE" gets expensive!) :inlove:
AriaDragonfly
Member
Oh and I've looked around a bit for this answer but what should I look for in a rabbit food? I know exactly what to look for in cat foods (lots of meat, no byproducts, no corn, etc) but I'm totally lost when it comes to rabbit foods. Is there anything specifically I should look out for?
BlueGiants
Well-Known Member
What are you feeding now?
I prefer a plain alfalfa basedpellet, with 16% protein for the babies. A timothy based pellet is great for the mature bunnies. I'd try to avoid a pellet that is high in Corn.
Edited to add: Feeding is a very individual thing. What works for me and my bunnies, may not work for you and yours. Check out the Forum Library and other posts in Nutrition and Behavior...
I prefer a plain alfalfa basedpellet, with 16% protein for the babies. A timothy based pellet is great for the mature bunnies. I'd try to avoid a pellet that is high in Corn.
Edited to add: Feeding is a very individual thing. What works for me and my bunnies, may not work for you and yours. Check out the Forum Library and other posts in Nutrition and Behavior...
AriaDragonfly
Member
Fiesta max I believe, but as I don't really trust pet store brands ever since I found out how bad most of them are for cats, I've always felt uneasy giving it to them. Out of all of the brands I looked at in the store it seemed to have the best ingredients, but as in cat food looks can be deceiving. I just couldn't find as much information on rabbit food as I have cat food.
