Using Wood in Cage

[Meganc731]

I'm getting ready to make our new cage, Iwondered if there was a specific type of wood I should use that's safefor the bunnies, and easy to clean. Is urine soaking in to the woodgoing to be an issue?

Thanks,

Megan

 

[Stephanie]

I would make sure you line the bottom of the cagewith something, as the wood will absorb the urine and it's not fun todeal with.

My husband and I made a wood cage last summer. We really "invented" ourway through it, using my oldest rabbit's old cage, wood, and hinges.The inside liner is actually two storage units, that we cute down andglued together with some special adhevsive (it is perfectly safe forthe rabbits, the adhesive isn't where they can get to, plus we aired itout for a full week before using the cage just in case).

Here are some pictures of it. As far as wood goes, we used a fewdifferent kinds, regular plywood for the sides, spruce and pine for theframework. We're lucky and they don't chew on any of it, other than acouple test nibbles at first.

 

[Stephanie]

Here's another view of it.

Our rabbits really love their cage. As you can see, it's quite spaciousfor them. Plus, it looks better (in my opinion) than store bought cagesand "blends" in with the rest of our furniture in our living room. Wenow have three rabbits in there, and all are snuggly happy together.

The front is a flap with hinges, so we can pull the liner out for easycleaning. Many others here have built their own cages, hopefullysomeone will post picture and give you other ideas.

 

[Jems]

You can buy hardware screen at your localhardware store. It makes a good bottom. The poosand any urine are allowed to go through. It wasfairly inexpensive.

 

[Lissa]

That's an awesome cage. Will you make me one?

 

[Stephanie]

Thanks Lissa. We had a lot of fun building it together.

Jems - my husband and I were unable to find that screen ANYWHERE whenwe build the cage. And we went to every store we could think of (HomeDepot, Home Hardward, Rona, plus the mom and pop type places). Now thatit's all said and done, the trey we created works very well and issuper easy to keep clean with a water/vingear mixture. I actually don'tmiss the wire bottom and the crusted on poops or the hangers on thatwould dangle between wires.

 

[Buck Jones]

When I construct a wooden frame to suspend insidemy dog crate conversion cages I use 1" x 3" cheap lumber. Iattach 1/2" x 1/2" hardware cloth(wire) to the bottom of the suspendedrectangular frame.

I prefer vinyl covered hardware cloth when I can find it because poopshang up less on it and its increased wire diameter is even easier onbunny tootsties.

The 3" high "walls" presented by the rectangular wooden framefunction as urine guards as well, should anybunny decide tospray. In truth, that has never been an issue for I install acorner litter box on the wire floor of the wooden frame.

Buns can and will chew on the lumber, so I would advise not usingtreated lumber of any kind. The cost of the lumber is soinconsequential that I consider it sacrificial. No buns haveever chewed enough off to make the frames inoperable over themany years I have used these conversions.

I suspend the frame with simple hardware hooks or small lengths ofchain at each corner so that the frame is 1" to 2" above the traybelow. Suspension higher or lower tends to create problems ofaccess or refuse escaping the tray.

"Stringers" on the wire have never been a particular problem for any ofour buns who have ranged in the 4 - 8 lb weightbracket. Most poops simply pass through the hardwarecloth. For those errant few poops thatgetcaughtup on the wire, I hang a 1" diameter nylon brush on theoutside of the cage. One pass of the brush is usuallysufficient to dislodge the occasional "stringer."

The dog crate conversions, therefore, are very inexpensive as I usuallybuy the crates at yard sales for $10.00 or less. Lumber,hardware cloth, screws, hooks or chain are not costly. Iguesstimate actual costs to be between $15.00 - $20.00.

Of late, I've taken to having four castoring wheels welded to thebottom of the dog crate. They cost $1.00 each at a local fleamarket. Getting the welding done at a local muffler shopcosts me another $15.00 to $20.00, but the added convenience is worthit to me. Definitely a luxury item and not all that necessary.

Buck

 

[Meganc731]

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll post pics whenwe finish the cage. We were going to start it today but we also neededto take the dogs and cat in for vaccinations, and that did us both in,so we'll start tomorrow hopefully!


Megan

 

[Meganc731]

Buck Jones wrote:

I attach 1/2" x 1/2" hardware cloth(wire) to thebottom of the suspended rectangular frame.

We're STILL working on our cages, but getting much closer to getting itdone Do I just use a regular staple gun to staple the hardware clothto the wood, or is there something special I need to do?

Thanks,
Megan

 

[Stephanie]

We used a regular staple gun and tapped down the staples after so they didn't stick out. It's a very solid hold.

 

[Meganc731]

Great, thanks a lot!

 

[Lassie]

How did u make that cage and was it hard to make? Delia

 

[Bramble Briar86]

All I know about using lumber is to never, everuse treated lumber. Especially old treated lumber, i don't know if theystill do it, but some of the stuff they coat it with contains arsenic.

Ellie

 

[*nepo*]

Stephanie your cage is so pretty . My dad made a cage too. Here it is

I've made a lot of adjustments though and sinceit's in the garage (he sleeps there at night) it doesn't look good, forsome reason it looks better outside. I do have problems with him peeingon the wood though I plan on getting him fully littertrained soon.