The biting is getting worse, need help.

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Myia09

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So, if you all have seen my last post here in behavior about sheriff, he is a almost 4month old unfixed english lop.

I would first like to say, his testicals have NOT dropped and he is only 4 MONTHS old..by no means sexually mature. Someone can feel free to correct me, by all means do, but my dwarf wasn't seuxally mature until 5 months, and he was a dwarf.

But finally, I have 2 serious bites..

the first being to the palm and then the knuclke, both adue to "cage" aggressivness.

When I take Sheriff out of the cage, if for any reason I open the doors and do not let him out, he will try to bite. I have been working with it by finding other ways to block him in, letting him out, or letting out a cry.

I no longer trust my hands around his mouth, because about 4 days ago he was giving kisses then "love bit" me, and James later on that day. These were harmless love bites, but still painful.

We let out a cry and a "no" with a gentle but firm "nose bonk" and turned our bodies away from him. When he "nudged" us we turned back.

But I have had it. He was on the couch and I was petting him, giving him some lvoving that HE WANTS (he comes up to cuddle and be pet) I lay my head down near him, and BAM one painful bite to the chin.

It didn't break skin, but it hurt really bad. I yelled no, and gave him a nose bonk in which he lunged at me, and wasn't happy. I promplty took him off the couch which he is no longer allowed on.

He now is asking to be pet and attention, like nothing happend.

I really need some help.

As for the nuetering thing, I swear I will slaughter someone if they say it. I would normally think that was a great idea and the solution, but he CAN'T be nueterd because he is NOT old enough and his testicals haven't dropped.

Yes, I want to show him, but showing him is not worth the biting, and I have no problem nuetering him when he is able to. He will be 4 months in 2 weeks.
 
With his cage aggressiveness, I'd wait till he's out of the cage before doing any maintenance. If he's biting when you're trying to feed him, you can either rig a system where you can feed him without opening his cage or wear gloves. The latter, I think, is more effective because when he realizes his biting doesn't hurt you, he should stop doing it.

When he's out playing and he bites, shriek andsay "NO!" (like you have been)and then immediately put him into his cage, close the door and walk away. Leave him there for 15 minutes at least. Then let him out again. If he bites again, then he goes into his cage till the next time you'd regularly let him out.

Thisworkedreally effectively withGus,when he bit my youngest. He now nips our clothes and NOT our skin.

I'm not sure at what age EL's testicles will drop, but some male rabbits seem to be able to "suck up" their testicles when you flip them onto their backs,making them appear like they don't have any.

Hope that helps!

Rue
 
Let me tell you Snowball's story.

Snowball was picked up by Animal Control at approxiately 3-4 months old. She was transferred to rescue almost immediately. Before I had her spayed she was the sweetest, lap-cuddliest, most loving bunny ever. As soon as I had her spayed she turned into a monster. We had her nominated for the re-make of Monty Python & the Holy Grail (for those of us old enough to appreciate this). For a long time my forearms (as well as various other body parts) were a mass of bruises and bites, many of which bled pretty bad. I did get a free eyebrow and nipple piercing. I hear those are pretty expensive.

Anyway, after about 6 months of lots of time and attention, Snowball really came around. Today, Snowball is the most friendly and easy to handle bunny I have ever encountered. She is about to emark on her career as a pet therapy bunny this month at a local nursing home.

I guess the moral of my story is that aggressive habits CAN be rehabilitated. Snowball is officialy a foster, but I love her so much that I don't know if I can ever give her up in spite of our rocky start.
 
I would never rehome Sheriff due to biting. I just couldn't. Plus, its only been going on for a month..I have a lot more love than to stop tyring after a month.

Rue, I will def try that out. I am just so afraid that they will see the cage as a "bad" thing. Maybe I should make a seperate time out cage?
 
I don't think putting him into his cage as a time out would make him think his cage is bad. It just means that he loses his play-time privileges.

Gus has gotten plenty of time outs(not just for nipping) and he doesn't seem to view his cage as a bad place. He's actually in his cage right now having a nap, though the door is wide open. ;)

Hope that helps!

Rue
 
Buns and their cage aggression - work with it weekly at the shelter. For the couple that are truly horrid to me (growling, boxing and lunging) when I need to get them out or get something out of their cage I give them parsley, cilantro or something that will require their mouth to be busy long enough for me to put my hand in their cage.

If their mouth is full - they can't bite. As for when its outside the pen - that one just seems like it will take time. It took my Mom 6 months to get my sister to stop biting my brother - :shock:; but I think rabbits are smarter than people.

Good luck and hey - if you find some technique - let me know as it might come in handy with the buns at the shelter.


 
:yeahthat:

I also do a technique where I pet the top of their head and gently get them to rest it on the floor. Then I can keep my hand there, while I go into the cage with the other hand.

The ones at the shelter that really don't do well as far as aggression goes will improve in foster homes, usually. They just need a lot of time out, time to explore and climb all over you (so they know you're safe to trust).
 
tonyshuman wrote:
:yeahthat:



The ones at the shelter that really don't do well as far as aggression goes will improve in foster homes, usually. They just need a lot of time out, time to explore and climb all over you (so they know you're safe to trust).

Yes! At my shelter - the more aggressive ones that are horrible to get out of their cages and into their Xpens - are easy to then take out of the Xpen and put back into their cages as they have time to romp about and play (all cuddles and limp buns after a good 20 minutes - which is sad), that being said there are the exceptions..

A couple of female, non spayed buns we have are nownicknamed "cobra" (they go for your face when trying to put them back in their cage - and mind you they used to be sweet - so we understand its hormones, but we are a no-kill shelter and have HUGE vet bills, so fixing buns is usually put off until its a horrid problem, such as the 2 I'm asking about) getting these from the Xpen to the cage is problematic-regardless of the amount of time out they have. Any help with that Tonyshuman? You seem to have a keen bun sence and sorry to highjack this thread - but really would appreciate some insight. Thanks!
 
We prefer to keep the aggressive ones on the bottom tier of cages so we can just open the cage and x-pen and let them run into there. The room I volunteer in is tiny so there's not a lot of space between and they eventually learn that it's playtime and will go to the pen on their own. To get them back in, I just walk behind them to shoo them gently back in the cage. :)
 
lol! Yes we have done just that with most - the terrible 2some (bonded bro and sis) we tried moving became very depressed - had to move them back to the top tier "condo" and then they were not depressed but still cranky. Thinking of stocking our shelter with those "shark sleeves" scuba divers buy to swim with sharks - lol..

I'm thinking its alot about your "vibe going in" that makes the bun more trustingnever show fear and/or as you suggested - get them a permanent home - wish.
 

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