Summer Hazards

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naturestee

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Summer is approaching for those of us in theNorthern Hemisphere, and with it comes hazards for ourrabbits. One of the most obvious is heat. Rabbitsdo not tolerate heat very well, and can be uncomfortable intemperatures over 80 F. Temps over 90 F can cause heat stressor heat stroke, which can be fatal. There are lots of thingsyou can do to keep your rabbits comfortable. Shade, icebottles, fans (not blowing directly on the rabbit), water bowls, andmisting the rabbit's ears are some of the more commonsolutions. Also, do not move the rabbit into an area with adrastic temperature difference. Moving an overheated rabbitfrom a hot 95 F room to a 70 F air conditioned room could send it intoshock. Try to make temperature changes more slowly.

This is an excellant thread with lots of ideas and info on how to cool a rabbit and recognize heat stroke:
Cooling a Rabbit

As the temperatures rise, parasites such as fleas and flies become moreactive. Both outdoor and indoor rabbits can be exposed toparasites, so it's best to know how to prevent them and how to treatthem. Check out these Rabbit Health References threads:

Fleas
Bot Flies (Warbles)
Fly Strike

If you live in an area where myxomatosis is frequent, be aware that itis spread by biting insects like fleas and mosquitos. Treatfor fleas on a regular basis. If your rabbits live outside,consider putting insect screens on the wire areas of their hutches andruns.

Make sure your rabbits are vaccinated for both myxi and vhd if thevaccinations are available where you live. There have beenseveral outbreaks of myxi in the UK this spring and last fall, and somevets are recommending that the myxi vaccination be given every sixmonths instead of once a year.
 
I wonder if there's any insect deterrant other than screen for outdoor hutches? The ever-elusive perfect solution.....



Rose
 
On my experience alone, the Country Vet timedfly sprayers work great to deter flying insects... and it workstwo-fold for flys if used in conjunction with Vanilla in the drinkingwater and the trays dumped AT LEAST weekly.

I use 1 tablespoon Vanilla per Gallon of water. ;)

:shock:Edit: That's Immitation Vanilla Extract... not Pure Vanilla - Don't wanna make the rabbits drunk! :lol:
 
naturestee wrote:
I'd think the screens would be best for people that live in areas that have myxomatosis.


Only if the cages are not wire bottomed, of course (which is my problem).....

thanks for the link!

Rose

P.S. I heard something about a mix of herbs that can be used as fleapowder. Rosemary was one of them...maybe I can find the recipe again,it was in a book on natural pet health care. Haven't tried it yet.
 
I might have to move Pebbles (who's in mybedroom upstairs) into the rabbit room downstairs for the summer. It'salready starting to get warm and for me it's almost unbareable upstairsin my house, so I just need to find a little table to put her cage onso she can be moved downstairs for the summer.

Do you think moving her will stress her out? She loves to watch mesleep (i've woken up a few times and see her staring at me) and lovesmy bedroom. I was also planning to move her back upstairs when itstarts to cool off again. Does this sound ok?
 
i think moving your bunny downstairs is a verygood idea. what i would do is take her down to where she will be lvinga few times before making her stay there all the time. move her cageand leave her for about an hour this way it wont stress her out toomuch.

Hope this helps
 
Im getting my first rabbite in a couple monthsand i was going to keep it outside in a wooden hutch....I was going tohave it sit on the ground...should in be elivated for some reson...likewood rotting..???Is there enything i can do or give the bunny to ceepmiskitos and flies away ans stuff like that?:?
 
Would any of those things be a danger for buns that live indoors?

We pretty much ALWAYS have our AC on (my Canadian husband is only NOTsweating when it's around 70 F), so it sounds like it's right temp forthem. Not to mention the fact that if it's even too hot forthe AC to do much, our buns' cages are in the stream of air coming fromthe AC (tail end, but enough to keep the temp down for them).
 
hunnybunny63 wrote:
good luck with your new rabbit. hutches should always belifted off the ground for ventilation!
Also, most hutches have wire floors to let the mess dropthrough. Keeping the hutch off the ground means keeping therabbit off the feces, plus then you can clean underneath.

Maherwoman, flystrike can happen inside the house too, although it isless likely. The best way to prevent it is to keep thelitterboxes clean, and if they have problems like open wounds or poopybutt to keep them clean and get them treated.

Same goes for outside bunnies, but vanilla added to the water is a goodidea. For outside rabbits, you can also put fly screens onthe wire parts of the hutch, except the bottom for obviousreasons. Make sure they have enough ventilation and checkthem often. Lovethetailyall, click on the links in the firstpost to get more information.:)
 
naturestee wrote:
hunnybunny63 wrote:
good luck with your new rabbit. hutches shouldalways be lifted off the ground for ventilation!
Also, most hutches have wire floors to let the mess dropthrough. Keeping the hutch off the ground means keeping therabbit off the feces, plus then you can clean underneath.

Maherwoman, flystrike can happen inside the house too, although it isless likely. The best way to prevent it is to keep thelitterboxes clean, and if they have problems like open wounds or poopybutt to keep them clean and get them treated.

Same goes for outside bunnies, but vanilla added to the water is a goodidea. For outside rabbits, you can also put fly screens onthe wire parts of the hutch, except the bottom for obviousreasons. Make sure they have enough ventilation and checkthem often. Lovethetailyall, click on the links in the firstpost to get more information.:)
i dont know where youcome from but where i live i have never seen a hutch with a wire floor.isnt it better to have a solid floor as the rabbit could hurt its selfand some of there droppings the rabbits eat to get the nutianets!
 
Solid floor hutches are standard in the UK, andI actually prefer them for outdoor rabbits even though all mine arestrictly indoor pets. In the US and Canada though, solidfloor hutches can be hard to find. Wire floored cages areactually very common over here.:? I'm not a fan, but they arehandy for rabbits that aren't littertrained. It's hard toclean urine out of wood.

As for the cecotrope issue, healthy rabbits should be able to get themstraight from anus. If they can't, they might be havingproblems from arthritis or obesity.
 
Someone suggested to me putting ceramic tiles in the freezer for a few hours and then putting them in the hutch/run to sit on. I do this with William and he really loves lying on them. They warm up quickly though so its best to have 2-3 in their to rotate around.

[Just adding]

I've noticed people talking about wire bottomed cages. I have NEVER seen these in the UK so it must just not be our thing! Don't the bunnies feet get hurt and damaged? Like hamsters? Or maybe they're feet are big enough.

I'd hate to walk on wire all day :(
 
I've noticed people talking about wire bottomed cages. I have NEVER seen these in the UK so it must just not be our thing! Don't the bunnies feet get hurt and damaged? Like hamsters? Or maybe they're feet are big enough.
Yes, rabbits can (and do) wind up with foot problems as a result of having to rest on wire all day. Sore hocks can be a major problem, esp. for the larger/heavier breeds, or breeds who are more prone to thin fur covering on the bottoms of their feet, such as the Rex. Generally, people who keep rabbits in cages with wire bottoms provide either an attached hutch with a solid floor, or some resting areas where the rabbits can sit and get relief from the wire. Keeping a rabbit on wire without some sort of solid surface is not good. And I've heard that the large breeds, such as the Flemish Giant, cannot be kept in cages with wire at all, as their weight is too heavy for them to sit on wire without triggering foot problems.

I have a combo with my outdoor cages...wire run with solid hutch floor, as well as a board in each run for the bunnies to rest on if they wish. This way air flow is maintained in the run for them, while at the same time providing their feet the rest they need from the wire.
 

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