How much to sterilize a Bun?

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It really depends on the vet and where you live. There are some low cost programs where it costs around $50-100. For a regular vet, it will still varies a lot. Some only charge around $100-150 while others can be around $300 and even more. Costs do depend on where the vet is, vets in cities tend to have higher rents so charge more for services than those in town or more rural settings.
Make sure you go to a rabbit savvy vet. While the surgery is fairly close to what is done for a dog or cat, the before and after care is different and rabbits do have specific needs.

Call some vets in your area and ask for prices. Be sure to ask if it includes the exam cost and pain medication as these can be extras and not included when they give you a quote. If the vet you call doesn't treat rabbits, ask if they would recommend any vets in the area. Do some research on basic questions to ask the vet, either on the phone or in person, so you can help determine if they are good with rabbits.
 
If you get another bunny, have her spayed first and heal (about a month) to allow the hormones (if any) to dissipate. Also, take the introductions slowly! Have their cages near each other enough to see and smell each other but not bite through the bars (leave 3-4 inches of space at a minimum). Find neutral territory (your home or another person's home) which your own bunny hasn't been in before and hasn't claimed as his own. Equip yourself with a water sprayer to ward off any fights and watch for any signs that a fight make occur (nipping, circling, grunting, growling, tails up and ears back). Ignoring is a good first sign.

You might want to start by stressing the bunnies--I carried mine around in a laundry basket and put them on top of a dryer turned on to no heat (so they don't get burned or overheated) or a washer on spin. I did this in five minute bursts as they had fought previously, then slowly introduced them again in the laundry room. When they were one the floor, if things got nippy but not out of control, I'd gently tip the laundry basket over one bunny until things calmed down enough, and try again in a minute or two. You want to try for them *never* fighting, because that can damage a bond, and set you back weeks or days in bonding. That said, mine fought, and are bonded now. It was a quick bond (a week) but it was an intensive week of bonding--several sessions a day. When they got to ignoring each other and not attempting to fight, that's when I went for longer sessions.

I would consider adopting an already neutered bunny so you don't have to go through the "wait for hormones to die down stage". I adopted Simon, my second bunny, already neutered. Olive was my first bunny and 10 weeks old when I adopted her--I had her spayed at four months and then waited until she was six months old to bond her. I was originally going to keep her as an only bunny, but like you, wanted to bond her to another bunny so she'd have company.

Good luck!
 
If you have a rescue or shelter close I would recommend "speed dating". Basically you let ben choose his new mate based on how they interact. I think it's easier to bond that way. :)
 
I agree with minilophop: let your bunny choose his mate. But be careful: I let Olive choose hers at the shelter, but when I brought them back to the house, they fought. This is not to discourage you from having your bunny choose his mate, however--I highly recommend it. The bond was way, way easier than it seemed it was going to be after just a few days.
 

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