Housing for new Bunny

[Tnarg]

Hey all!

So I will soon be a newly minted rabbit owner! I plan to go pick my bunny up from the shelter in about two weeks after i finish finalizing the plans and more importantly, the HOUSING. I have had so much fun shopping for toys but I am a bit torn on the housing. To start, I live in an apartment (law student apartment so not HUGE), but I have a decent amount of space to give the bunny in addition to play time.

So far I am planning on an NIC Cage supplemented by a xpen. Thus a few questions (I will number them for convenience)

1. I plan to just give the bunny access to the NIC cage first to ensure good litter habits. I have done TONS of research (bad habit of law school) and I think it is wise for the first few weeks (or week not sure?) to just limit the bunny to his NIC cage. After he deems himself worthy, Ill add in the xpen cage and leave the door open (this is all in addition to scheduled play time).

2. What is a good NIC grid dimension for a SMALL to MEDIUM sized bun? I plan to do 2 grids deep (2 feet 4 inches), and 3 grids wide (almost 4 feets). I also plan to construct a second floor (the building vertical rather than horizontal to save space).

3. Do they need a ramp in the NIC cage, or is a stair/adequate jump fine? How high should i place the second floor?

4. The bun will be in my bedroom at night (best place for his cage and its where I am 80% of the day when I am home). I understand he will be noisy, but any tips for controlling noise? Some bunnies may get on their owners schedule, but I plan for the worse. Take the loud toys out at night? Water bowl over a water bottle is what I hear ALOT.

5. The Xpen will be a 4x4 outside the pen, and I think this is perfectly fine for housing, it should need no more space (I am not being impracticable and refuse to OVER compensate too much, I will spoil her enough im sure). However, is linoleum flooring fine? In my research it seems the most economical while maintaining traction for binkies.

6. How much space do you all recommend for floor time? I have my whole bedroom rabbit proofed (time will tell) which is like 16 feet by 12. But how do you all ensure they keep using the litter even with such a great space (i know the cleaning pee putting it in litter, but is that all?)

Thanks all, SO sorry about the wall of text, feel free to answer whichever questions you would like I am just so excited to finally begin this adventure I have spent months preparing for.

 

[Azerane]

Hello there, it sounds like you've done a lot of research which is great I'll try to answer your questions as best I can.

...I think it is wise for the first few weeks (or week not sure?) to just limit the bunny to his NIC cage. After he deems himself worthy, Ill add in the xpen cage and leave the door open (this is all in addition to scheduled play time).

Good plan, some litter train quickly, others not as much, a week is probably plenty but depends on the bunn. He/she will still need to exercise after all. Adding on the x-pen before allowing free range of the room is a good step to take, a small increase in space is less likely to lead to toilet accidents than suddenly having a big room.

2. What is a good NIC grid dimension for a SMALL to MEDIUM sized bun? I plan to do 2 grids deep (2 feet 4 inches), and 3 grids wide (almost 4 feets). I also plan to construct a second floor (the building vertical rather than horizontal to save space).

3 wide is a minimum in my opinion, fine for small, a touch cramped for medium but still acceptable. Lots of people build 3 wide due to space restrictions, my personal preference is 4-5. Bandit's is 5 wide but I also have plenty of space. Keep in mind that a second level will only be two grids wide in at least one spot for where bunny has to jump up/down.

3. Do they need a ramp in the NIC cage, or is a stair/adequate jump fine? How high should i place the second floor?

Ramps are not recommended, some rabbits struggle with them and can get hurt, 1-2 steps are preferable to a ramp. I made the first floor two grids high, I wanted to be sure that Bandit had plenty of space to stretch up to his full height (ears included) while in his cage. 1.5 grids is probably enough though, plenty for most small-medium breeds. Bandit's second level is only one grid high (he can sit comfortably with his ears up, and hop along (he weighs 3kg about 7pounds.) I staggered two steps, the first is at 1 grid high, the second 1.5 grids and then at 2 grids is the second level. If my description is confusing, see pictures here: http://www.rabbitsonline.net/showthread.php?t=73547&page=41

4. The bun will be in my bedroom at night (best place for his cage and its where I am 80% of the day when I am home). I understand he will be noisy, but any tips for controlling noise?

Yes you can remove certain toys, but likely he'll still be shredding/digging/moving something around. But certainly take out anything that rattles, or metal food dishes if you end up with one. Cardboard is good because if it gets tossed around it's pretty quiet.

5. The Xpen will be a 4x4 outside the pen,... ... However, is linoleum flooring fine? In my research it seems the most economical while maintaining traction for binkies.

4x4 sounds decent enough, you can always add to it later if you want. Lino should be fine, Bandit has stick on vinyl floor in his cage, and floorboards through my loungeroom that he's fine with, but every bunny is different. I also bought a (cheap) area rug specifically for a binkie zone (which he loves).

6. But how do you all ensure they keep using the litter even with such a great space (i know the cleaning pee putting it in litter, but is that all?)

Your floor time space sounds more than adequate Some bunnies are better than others at maintaining litter habits in a large space, Bandit has free range in a large lounge room, dining room and kitchen and never poops anywhere but his litter box (or occasionally the top floor of his cage). It can take time, paper towel for the pee dumped in the litter box, and sweeping up any poops into the box will usually do the trick. Some bunns are stubborn and determined to go in other areas that they deem suitable. In some situations it can help to place a second litter box outside the cage, but I don't think you'll need it. When allowing free-range to the room for the first few times, you'll mostly likely get stray poops, this is normal territorial marking and usually dies down in 1-2 weeks.

I've probably missed a lot, but I hope that helps.

 

[Blue eyes]

Azarene pretty well covered it all. I was just going to add that if the rabbit you get from the shelter is already fixed, then that will be to your advantage with litter training. Fixed rabbits practically train themselves.

Keeping her confined initially will also help with the litter training. As long as you expand her roaming territory in increments, you should not have any issues with potty accidents. That usually only occurs if a bunny is given too much space too soon. (Expect the stray poos, as Azarene mentioned. They are easy to sweep up and have no odor. It is the urine of which I speak.)

I'd also agree with Azarene that it would be best to go 2 grids by 4 grids (min) for the cage. The 2 grids depth is good because it isn't too deep for reaching an arm in there. The 4 grids wide is considerably more roomy than 3, and makes the addition of upper levels more do-able.

Linoleum flooring works with some bunnies but not with others. However, aside from the somewhat textured lino available, there is now some lino that actually feels gritty to the touch. When you rub your hand across, it feels rough and almost sandy. You can "feel" for that kind in the samples section of home improvement stores. You will absolutely know it when you feel it. (Though you may get some odd looks as you caress all their samples!) That lino will work for any bunny.