Bunny cages close to eachother?

[Yield]

I was thinking about this- about how some people have said that putting two bunnies you want to bond next to each other- in seperate cages so that they will get used to each other. I was wary about this and I decided to try it out.

Reactions:

Sabriel is now digging at his cage, chewing it, and running back and forth. His hormones are not fully gone yet- I know that, but I was hoping the sooner they were close together the more possibilities they could bond.

Solara is chewing at her cage (but she always does) and she seemed aggressive at first, but now she is cleaning herself and seeming unbothered (but still chewing the cage).

There is a blockade for now, blocking most of their view of each other. And so they cant get to each other.

Is this a good idea or a bad idea? I want your opinions please

 

[Happi Bun]

I would think it's a good idea, so long as neither bun's hurts themselves. This way they can get used to seeing and smelling each other but have the safety of being separated. Eventually they will become relaxed in each others presence, which is a very good thing.

 

[jcottonl02]

Happi Bun wrote:

I would think it's a good idea, so long as neither bun's hurts themselves. This way they can get used to seeing and smelling each other but have the safety of being separated. Eventually they will become relaxed in each others presence, which is a very good thing.

:yeahthat:

I do apologise for the laziness of my reply. As you can see from another thread, I was up until 4.30am and got up at 9am this morning, so I am so so tired and any long reply of mine will be slightly incoherent.

Keeping bunnies near one another/facing one another for long periods of time when you are trying to bond them is a VERY good thing. One of the best things you can start off doing.
That's how I began bonding my two males.
Had the both fixed, left it a few weeks, and then placed their hutches next to eachother. Then it became opposite.
Did that for a few weeks.

Then my Dad built them a run with a partition in it:
Even closer contact:

Don't be disheartened if they are aggressive towards eachother in the beginning.

I have quite a few pictures of Benji growling at Pippin, and Pippin looking terrified, on this very same meeting.

However, that subsided VERY quickly. I am still in the process of bonding them, as I don't FULLY trust them, because, even though their time together (supervised and without partition) is usually fantastic and filled with snuggles, kisses and bunny flops, every 1 out of 10 meetings Pippin WILL hump Benji, and then Benji will get annoyed and chase him.
Every time
So I am just working on that.

My Dad has actually just finished building a massive shed (see this blog for pics http://rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=55953&forum_id=93 ) with a giant partition in the middle, to further their bonding process.

The whole idea is to try and eliminate bad dominance issues (there are often well-working hierarchies between bonded buns, with one more dominant), and make them so relaxed and used to one another safely, that when they eventually do get together without a partition, it's so natural that they will behave the same as they always have done- snuggling, licking and rubbing through the bars etc.

Good luck

Jen

 

[elrohwen]

I think it's always a good idea to put two potential bond-mates close to each other. It's ok to put a block up at first, but eventually you should take it down and just have a space between cages so they can't nip.

The more buns are together, they more they start to think of themselves as a family unit. If you're trying to bond by bringing them togetherfrom opposite sides of the house for a few minutes each day, it's going to be hard to acheive a bond. But if they're used to seeing the other bunny every day through the bars, it can only help them get adjusted to each other.

 

[kirbyultra]

I would like to emphasize the importance of having some distance between the cages of 2 not-yet-bonded bunnies. 3 inches is a good amount of space as they will like to stick their cute little noses at each other and you don't want them to be able to bite. My two boys (who eventually never bonded after 11 months of trying) would find ways to move their cages together even though I had them clipped to fixturesand one would nip at the other's nose when I'm not looking. There would be little nose furs on the floor as evidence Easy way to make sure cages never get stuck together: place a brick in between the two cages. Or, place and empty plastic soda bottle in between the cages. That way they'll just run into the object instead of each other's cages.

 

[Mrs. PBJ]

This is the distance between my bunnies cage.

This is their set up.

They are about a foot maybe a little less. at first they where not happy. Now they spread out by each others cage and are like they always new each other.

They have been together for about 20 days now. Well March 20th Jessi came home they have been able to see each other sense about March 26 or 27th.

I hope their bonds go well I will start bonding in about a month or two after Jessi's Spay.

I would let them see each other I never put any card board or anything up in front of them. The first week a towel completely blocked them. So they could just get used to hearing and smelling each other.

and you can see in the last picture that they are pretty close and both chill-en doing their own thing.

 

[kahlin]

That should be good. Having the cages close together helps a lot in my experience. My easiest bonds were ones that I had set it up this way.

 

[Runestonez]

When we were bonding our kids (or trying to) we used hardware cloth...the finer mesh...the holes were only about 1/4" so they couldn't stick their bits through the holes and injure one another. It is convenient too as it can be ziptied to the cage bars or NIC's and then later on just cut the zips and remove it!

We left a space between the cages at first but the whole point is for one bunn to be able to see and smell the other so after a week when they had had time to adjust a bit to another bunn being in their space we used the hardware cloth and put their cages together.

Danielle

 

[Mrs. PBJ]

Runestonez wrote:

When we were bonding our kids (or trying to) we used hardware cloth...the finer mesh...the holes were only about 1/4" so they couldn't stick their bits through the holes and injure one another.  It is convenient too as it can be ziptied to the cage bars or NIC's and then later on just cut the zips and remove it!

We left a space between the cages at first but the whole point is for one bunn to be able to see and smell the other so after a week when they had had time to adjust a bit to another bunn being in their space we used the hardware cloth and put their cages together.

Danielle

You know what I am going to do that in a week after jessi recovers from her spay. I never thought about moving the cages side by side before they where bonded.

Like touching each other I mean.

Sorry to hijack

Kat

 

[Yield]

Thank you so much for the suggestions and everything, everyone! Sabriel's cage bars are horizontal, and Solara's cage bars are vertical, so it'd be very hard for them to bite each other. Their cages are almost virtual to get close enough to do so I think. But there is a barricade in the middle so they can't have the chance. They sometimes get close, but most of the time Solara lays far away, where Sabriel can't see her. It's funny x) she so far wants nothing to do with him. I have started switching their food bowls as well!

 

[AngelnSnuffy]

kirbyultra wrote:

I would like to emphasize the importance of having some distance between the cages of 2 not-yet-bonded bunnies. 3 inches is a good amount of space as they will like to stick their cute little noses at each other and you don't want them to be able to bite. My two boys (who eventually never bonded after 11 months of trying) would find ways to move their cages together even though I had them clipped to fixturesand one would nip at the other's nose when I'm not looking. There would be little nose furs on the floor as evidence Easy way to make sure cages never get stuck together: place a brick in between the two cages. Or, place and empty plastic soda bottle in between the cages. That way they'll just run into the object instead of each other's cages.

I agree! Great point, you also don't want them to have room to fight through the cage bars.