A few questions about breeding

[nicolevins]

I am thinking about breeding my Polish Dwarf bun in the future. She is only about 4 or 5months now. She is bonded with Jenni my mixed breed (probably a lop mix). Jenni is 9months. If I do breed them, I know plenty of places who will take in a bunny so there is no worry there. Here are some pics.

Now here are my questions:



1. Is it dwarfs who have peanuts? How will I distinguish the peanut from the rest of the litter?

2. If my doe isn't bonded with me very well, should I handle the babies?

3. Both are over 5 months. Does it matter if I have a doe who is a few months older than the buck?

5. How many is in the average dwarf litter?

4. When does the bucks hormones kick in?

5. Does the nest box HAVE to be wood? Can it be hard cardboard, which is in the shape of a nestbox?

6. My doe has been eating the hay from the nesting box and not from the load I supplied her with beside her food bowl. How do I keep her out of the food bowl?

7. How many times can dwarfs breed a year? Or what is the recommmendation?

8. Is it common for dwarfs kits to die?

9. When should I re-breed my doe after I have kindled the babies?

10. What will I do if mam neglects them or just one? Should I hand rear them all?


Thanks, but all that is vital info. to me!

Any more suggestions or tips please tell me in your post

-Nicole

 

[BlueCamasRabbitry]

Personally I wouldn't breed her at all, because you'll just be creating mix bred babies. If you want to get into breeding, you should do LOADS of research, talk with other breeders in your area who are responsible, go to rabbit shows, and find a breed that you'd like to start with and breed to better a purebred breed. Don't just breed mixes.

Since you have a Polish Dwarf (who doesn't look very purebred to me), 5 months is the OK breeding age for that size rabbit. However, you firstly said she is either 4 or 5 months, and then stated in question #3, that she is over 5 months. If you do not know her exact age, then definitely do not breed her.

#9 - So you would re-breed her after you had one litter?
Like stated above, if you are wanting to get into breeding and having several litters, get purebred, show/brood quality rabbits.

You need to do lots of research before you breed. And what does your mom think about it? I recall your post about her not letting you get another bun - so where would you get the buck to breed with your doe? And what happens if you can't find homes for the babies?

Emily

 

[Korr_and_Sophie]

I am not a breeder, so I can't answer all your questions, but I will try for a few of them.

3. Both are over 5 months. Does it matter if I have a doe who is a few months older than the buck?
I don't think the age matters as much as the size. The buck should not be much bigger than the doe. Bucks usually mature faster than does, so as long as he is ready, you shouldn't have an issue.

5. Does the nest box HAVE to be wood? Can it be hard cardboard, which is in the shape of a nestbox?
If you are planing on breeding a few litters, it would be best to have a wooden one. A cardboard one might not last for the whole time it is needed, but it you were to only have 1 litter, it would work. You could probably use a plastic tub that the doe can get in and keeps the kits from falling out. It would be easy to clean and would last for many litters.

6. My doe has been eating the hay from the nesting box and not from the load I supplied her with beside her food bowl. How do I keep her out of the food bowl?
I would take then nest box out of the cage until the litter is due. The doe could see it as a litter box or place to sleep. The doe should only use it as a nest box for the kits. If you want to put a bed or something in, that is fine, just have a separate nest for.

7. How many times can dwarfs breed a year? Or what is the recommendation?
9. When should I re-breed my doe after I have kindled the babies?
How often to breed does depend on the breeder and the doe. Personally, I would not breed a doe more than 3-4 times a year. You want to give her time to raise the litter and have a bit of a break between litters to get back in shape. I would not breed her again until the litter is weaned and away from her.

 

[polly]

1. Is it dwarfs who have peanuts? How will I distinguish the peanut from the rest of the litter?

Yes they do. generally they are a lot smaller and have different shape skulls to normal babies. If they are born alive they generally only live a few days before passing away.

2. If my doe isn't bonded with me very well, should I handle the babies?

Yes I would make the time to get her used to her hutch and with you going into it and moving bedding around or just stroking her nose. And yes you are going to have to check the babies out but even if she is wary about you going in give her a piece of veg or check them after you give her food

3. Both are over 5 months. Does it matter if I have a doe who is a few months older than the buck?

No it doesn't its more important that one is not a lot bigger than the other. When I choose my buck for a first time doe I will use a smaller buck just to give her an easier time. but if they are the same breed you should be ok. You want to mate a netherland/ polish between 5-6 months first time but you do have to remember that there is a high mortality rate breeding the dwarf buns and especially on a first litter

5. How many is in the average dwarf litter?

I have had 1 and my biggest litter is 5 though an average for us is 3 but with 1 peanut ( which is a good sign cause then you know that your rabbits are carrying the dwarfing gene needed to keep the shape and weight right )

4. When does the bucks hormones kick in?

Depends buck to buck we usually use a buck who is at least 5 or 6 months but preferably on a first litter we will use one of our stud bucks who we know is a proven stud.

5. Does the nest box HAVE to be wood? Can it be hard cardboard, which is in the shape of a nestbox?

You can get wood or metal boxes if you are going to reuse you should sterilise them inbetween different litters. Someone else would be better to answer this as I don't use them at all.

6. My doe has been eating the hay from the nesting box and not from the load I supplied her with beside her food bowl. How do I keep her out of the food bowl?

They will sometimes eat from the nest right up till they are due to kindle just keep giving her fresh hay to eat / nest with


7. How many times can dwarfs breed a year? Or what is the recommmendation?


Generally we keep our does breeding yearthrough. One of the biggest problems with dwarfs is they put to much fat on very quickly and then they are hard to mate. I check my rabbits once I take a litter away and deal with them accordingly if fit healthy and happy I will givea week and remate. If not they are left till they feel in better condition. If you have a doe who is not getting pregnant take her feed right down to almost nothing and feed unlimited hay for 2 weeks then they are very willing!!


8. Is it common for dwarfs kits to die?

Its common for them to have big kits that get stuck in the birthing canal and come out squashed we call them pencil kits. If they survive the birth and are not peanuts then thechances are good. in my last litter the doe had 5 babies. 1 peanut, 2 pencil kits and 2 alive.

9. When should I re-breed my doe after I have kindled the babies?

If she loses the litter ( all born dead) then you can remate her after a few days as long as her vent area is ok. If she raises the litter I take the babies away between week 6-8 depending on the doe and how the babies are doing and will remate perhaps a week later depending on condition ( see Q7)

10. What will I do if mam neglects them or just one? Should I hand rear them all?


Its very hard to hand rear babies especially dwarfs as they are very tiny Its best to have 2 does pregnant as the same time so you can foster the babies if necessary. If she neglects just one there is usually a chance they think its not right. Its easiest for you to take babies away but bring them back to the doe to feed.

Thanks, but all that is vital info. to me!

Any more suggestions or tips please tell me in your post

-Nicole

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[OakRidgeRabbits]

1. Is it dwarfs who have peanuts? How will I distinguish the peanut from the rest of the litter?

Dwarf breeds are as small as they are because of an actual dwarfing gene. A regular dwarf-breed rabbit will have 1 regular gene and 1 dwarfing gene. But if you breed two of these regular rabbits together, you can get babies with 2 dwarfing genes (a double dwarf, or peanut). Peanuts are very, very small and don't really grow at all. As time goes on, they starve to death as they're not able to digest the milk correctly. Most peanuts pass within 24-48 hours, but some will live up to 2 weeks. So most breeders put them down when they're born.

Peanuts are very strange looking. Again, very small but they'll have especially tiny ears and a buldge at their forehead. Usually their eyes kind of buldge from their head as well. As the days go on, they lose mass and weight, and the hindquarters will pinch in and curl under.

2. If my doe isn't bonded with me very well, should I handle the babies?

Handling babies shouldn't be an issue. If the doe is territorial or doesn't like being handled, you shouldn't breed her. Temperament is hereditary in some ways and ESPECIALLY when you're breeding mixed breeds for pets, you don't want to pass on bad personalities.

3. Both are over 5 months. Does it matter if I have a doe who is a few months older than the buck?

Age difference doesn't really matter.

5. How many is in the average dwarf litter?

For most dwarf breeds, about 2-4 kits.

4. When does the bucks hormones kick in?

Around 4-6 months, depending on the buck and breed. As soon as he's willing, you can try him.

5. Does the nest box HAVE to be wood? Can it be hard cardboard, which is in the shape of a nestbox?

No, wood or metal. Cardboard boxes CAN be used in a pinch or in the case of accidental litter. But they're not really sturdy enough.

6. My doe has been eating the hay from the nesting box and not from the load I supplied her with beside her food bowl. How do I keep her out of the food bowl?

Out of the nestbox you mean? She shouldn't have a nestbox until Day 28...

7. How many times can dwarfs breed a year? Or what is the recommmendation?

At least twice, usually 2-3 times a year. They must be bred enough to keep them in production. If they go too long without a litter, it can be difficult and dangerous to get them bred again.

8. Is it common for dwarfs kits to die?

It's not common for any kind of kit to just randomly die. However, there are a multitude of birth defects and illnesses that kits can pick up.

9. When should I re-breed my doe after I have kindled the babies?

If you're breeding for pets, let her raise the litter, wean the litter, and recover for awhile before breeding her again.

10. What will I do if mam neglects them or just one? Should I hand rear them all?

Most does will not neglect their kits, but some are outright bad mothers. If this happens, you're pretty much stuck. It is difficult and relatively impossible to and raise kits, they really do need their mother. This is why many reputable breeders will breed more than one doe at once, so that there are always litters to foster over to.

 

[naturestee]

I vote no because she's bonded with another rabbit (you'd have to separate them) and the only purpose you have for breeding is to have pet quality babies. Are you prepared for extra cages (at least two so the babies can be separated by gender), caring for any babies that aren't sold quickly, and emergency vet bills? Dwarf buns have a higher rate of problems especially peanuts and stuck kits (small hips/birth canal). Are you prepared to potentially even lose your doe due to birthing complications?

No, I'm not a breeder. I'm just not willing to deal with all the bad things that can happen. After spending a large amount of money on vet bills to raise an orphaned baby rabbit (whose siblings did not make it) I think it's very important for people to understand what can happen. I was also very upset when a foster bun of mine gave birth, had some minor problems, and two of the kits were "pencil kits" and DOA. Not to mention worrying over the runts that weren't getting enough milk and dealing with rabbit syphilis. I really encourage anyone who is considering breeding to learn as much as they can about the pros, cons, and expenses before they decide to breed at all.

Here's a thread where the breeders here share their goals for breeding. It's a good idea to see what other people here are thinking about when they are planning their breedings. For all of these members, breeding is more than just buck+doe=babies.
http://www.rabbitsonline.net/view_topic.php?id=52718&forum_id=8

 

[GorbyJobRabbits]

BlueSkyAcresRabbitry wrote:

Personally I wouldn't breed her at all, because you'll just be creating mix bred babies. If you want to get into breeding, you should do LOADS of research, talk with other breeders in your area who are responsible, go to rabbit shows, and find a breed that you'd like to start with and breed to better a purebred breed. Don't just breed mixes.

Since you have a Polish Dwarf (who doesn't look very purebred to me), 5 months is the OK breeding age for that size rabbit. However, you firstly said she is either 4 or 5 months, and then stated in question #3, that she is over 5 months. If you do not know her exact age, then definitely do not breed her.

#9 - So you would re-breed her after you had one litter?
Like stated above, if you are wanting to get into breeding and having several litters, get purebred, show/brood quality rabbits.

You need to do lots of research before you breed. And what does your mom think about it? I recall your post about her not letting you get another bun - so where would you get the buck to breed with your doe? And what happens if you can't find homes for the babies?

Emily

I agree with everything here. You have no real purpose in breeding your rabbits.


Also, if you have a place for her to sleep, put straw in. Not hay. They wont eat the straw. If you have hay and they're using the bathroom on it and then decide they're hungry, well thats just not sanitary.... Use straw, its for bedding.

 

[Erins Rabbits]

As a RESPONSIBLE breeder, I strongly, very strongly, urge you to NOT breed your rabbit(s).

I usually pay scorn and skeptical comments to those who critisize my own breeding practices, if only because mine are not pets and never go to people who keep them as pets. I don't allow it. I don't want a rabbit that I bred ending up in a shelter. No, no, no. I don't want to be responsible for producing a shelter rabbit. So I make it clear to buyers- these are show rabbits, not pets. I tell them that before they sell them- to come back to me- I will happily take in a rabbit that I produced in leu of it being sent to the shelter. There's always another option.