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I’m a little late here...hope they’re well. Once in a while a doe can develop ketosis after kindling. They stop eating and sit in a corner, and they won’t nurse. The doe can die if you don’t take her to a vet pretty quick. I’m not saying this is what’s wrong with yours, but it happened to us...

No problem 😉. My daughter is in her last 6 months of vet school and plans to treat exotics...she confirmed that rabbits are not like GPs. We were lucky that in the 9 years we bred/showed rabbits that we only lost one doe during kindling.

You might get a vet to Xray her to confirm.

I would question this story. Rabbits are not like guinea pigs. Does can have more complications kindling if they’re bred for the first time after a year old, but not due to fused hips.

The best nesting box is one made for rabbits, either metal or wood. In cool weather we prefer the wood ones that have a partial top. In a pinch, you can use a cardboard box or litter box. As to food, you don’t need to feed her anything different right now. Does she get pellets?

Six months is a good time to breed. Rabbits don’t have the same issues that guinea pigs do.

If it’s been less than a week or so since they were born then you shouldn’t have a problem fostering. Are you concerned the dwarf might not take care of it?

If the tail was broken you’ll know, after it heals, by running your fingers along the tail from the base to the tip...you’ll feel a small knot somewhere along what should be a smooth tailbone.

We raised BEW polish and, other than being a little more high strung, they acted & reacted no different from our other rabbits.

I’m in Texas also and we didn’t have a problem keeping the hay in a big plastic patio bin that sat under a tree in our backyard. We kept it off the ground and it already had holes in the bottom corners for air. It was big enough to hold one square bale. We went through a bale about every 5-6 months.

If you can take him to a vet that would be the best option. You can get Pen G at a feed store, but it must be injected, dosage based on weight, and giving it without knowing what he has may not be your best option.

By putting the doe in with a buck it can stimulate her hormones and possibly trigger labor. Don’t allow the buck to mount. She won’t need to be in there too long...just keep him from mounting her.

I agree that 9-10 weeks is a good time to separate mom from the kits. The two boys can be kept together for a little longer to ease the transition, before separating them.

maybe I missed it, but how many rabbits do you currently have and do you plan to enlarge later? For intact rabbits used for breeding and/or showing there is nothing wrong with an alfalfa based pellet. If you aren’t on a budget then go for what you think is the best. Many breeders can’t afford...

I’ve had does that fooled us before because they did everything but had kits. That being said, have you tried gently palpating? You could try a few things to encourage labor...giving a chewable tums, getting her to run around, putting her with a buck (though don’t allow them to mate). Last step...

Not sure why you duplicated this question in your other thread, but I wouldn’t let them eat yard grass this young. Hay is much better right now. Junior pellets (alfalfa based) would be okay at 3 weeks but start them on it in very small amounts and very slowly work up to more.

The protein, fat and fiber look about right. It is alfalfa based which is fine. I don’t see corn as an ingredient but I see cane molasses (sugar). If you are changing this. bunny’s diet then go real slow on starting it on a new feed. Youngsters are very susceptible to gut issues with sudden...

White snot is not allergies. If you don’t take her then watch her closely. If it gets worse or she starts having trouble breathing you need to get to a vet.

First litters don’t always go well. Give her another chance.

If you go to a farm or feed store make sure to ask for horse quality hay.