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Pedigrees are used by a breeder to aid them in who to breed to who. That’s the only reason I can think of why a breeder of non showable colors needs pedigrees. I believe that 4-H and FFA follow ARBA rules...at least, I know FFA does.

Whether he’s eating hay pellets or long strands, he’s still working his molars. I would hesitate to change the diet of an older rabbit too much. Any grass hay is good whether it’s strands, compressed, or something like orchard grass.

I don’t think pet rabbits need a pedigree. For 4-H or FFA, or if it’s a fellow breeder who shows rabbits, then I would certainly provide the pedigree with the rabbit. If someone wants to take a rabbit I’ve petted out, and breed it, I certainly don’t want a pedigree with my name on it floating...

If you give her alfalfa based pellets you really don’t need to give her alfalfa hay also. If you know what she was being fed you need to continue that and slowly transition her to anything new. Sudden diet changes in young rabbits can cause gut issues.

Dwarf breeds, where netherland dwarfs were used to develop the breed, have a chance of having peanuts. It helps to have pedigrees of the doe and buck where each rabbit generation indicates their weight, also. We bred and raised Polish, which is a dwarf breed (ie- NDs were used on what was...

Possible...if he isn’t drinking water you might try syringe feeding him some...maybe it will dislodge it.

It could be something stuck in his throat he tried to swallow. Does he have a nasal discharge? If so, he could be developing pneumonia which can be very serious in rabbits.

Although I never raised ND’s I’ve known others who did and they typically had a harder time with does and successful litters. Some does also just don’t seem to figure out what to do, even after losing their first litter. You could check your feed but the well known brands like Purina, MannaPro...

It can depend on whether the rabbit is inside or outside. Our outside rabbits didn’t necessarily sleep more but they weren’t quite as active. They also ate less when it was cold.

I would say you need to remove it. Cold newborns must be warmed pretty quick for them to have a chance of surviving.

If she’s spayed then I would recommend the Timothy pellets. We found that the critical times when they are most susceptible to gut issues is when they're up to about 1-2 weeks. Then again during weaning and right after (4-6 weeks)...then around 10-11 weeks for a few. It may vary some between...

As to question 1, if they’re newborns you possibly could transition the doe over the course if a week or two. The kits will start nibbling on the pellets by week 2-3 so changes should be done slowly. Kits are at their most critical time health wise during weaning and for a period right after...

Don’t use the quick oats. Use the old fashioned oats and do feed sparingly...maybe a tablespoon. We got black oil sunflower seeds at Tractor Supply or ACE. You can also try a feed store. Again, those should be fed sparingly.

I would be concerned what type of chemicals were used to make them. You should contact the manufacturer for a safety sheet on it.

Actually, a doe raising kits should be on alfalfa pellets. Him being young, he should also be on the same pellets. You’ll just have to wait and see how he grows. He may hit a growth spurt when his other issues are resolved.

Unfortunately, if it’s spread to the bone there isn’t much else you can do. Jaw abscesses can be tough to clear up, even without bone involvement.

As a breeder, we basically had the same rule as most other breeders. The reasons given above are correct. A rabbit sold as a pet is just that and for whatever reason wasn’t show quality. Someone breeding a rabbit petted out contributes to overpopulation and can reflect poorly on that breeder’s...

It might also be the buck & doe combination. You could give her one more chance. If she loses the 3rd litter I’d stop trying.

Putting two intact rabbits can go one of two ways. They get along and you have a litter, or the female is aggressive and can potentially castrate the male during the fight. Your female is territorial because you’ve brought a new rabbit in. Put them close to each other but kept separate and let...

That was my first thought. Narrow HQ can make for a complicated delivery. You wouldn’t want to breed that doe again if that’s the case. You can tell if a doe has pinched HQ pretty easy.