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Normally, when kits are between 3-4 weeks old they will start to nibble on mom’s pellets while still nursing. Because yours were unable to nurse normally it could take longer for them to get adjusted to pellets. Push hay and start very slowly on pellets.

Could also have Dutch mixed in due to the markings

You do have to be careful when keeping both rabbits and chickens, as chickens and their feces can carry disease that will make rabbits sick. Also, paint can be toxic, especially if it contains lead.

We found that certain meds could affect the gut flora so we typically gave ours a probiotic while on those meds. Benebac or Probios were the two we used.

As with anything else, even among vets, there are differing opinions on pellets. I don’t doubt that there are some pet rabbits whose system can’t tolerate pellets. However, over the nine years we bred & showed rabbits, we had 0 who could not eat pellets.

I’m thinking Otis may be a girl also. It’s more of a slit than a hole. We found that it’s easier to *** right after they’re born and then again between 6-8 weeks.

Was the first vet an exotic vet or one who normally treats rabbits? I won’t criticize vets since my daughter is now one, but we discovered that unless the vet is rabbit savy we typically knew as much as they did about them.

A kit can still get dragged out of the box if it’s attached firmly enough to mom. Once out it’s susceptible to anything small enough to squeeze thru wire, including rats.

We’ve had quite a few rabbits but only one that had an upper tooth with an overgrown root. It was an old rabbit.

An interesting behavior but I wouldn’t worry about it. Of all the rabbits we had there was only one who would put his front paws in the water bowl. He did it when it was hot and it was his method of cooling off. Not saying that’s why yours is doing it though.

I would think an X-ray could be done to check that the upper teeth don’t have any deep roots.

We used Petrus when we had meat pens. I have a breeder friend who raises Cals and that’s all she uses. I also agree with @SableSteel. For the oats just make sure they’re rolled oats, the old fashioned kind…you can get them at the grocery store.

See my response above

It’s possible there was something wrong with the kit that died. Though it is a bit harder for a lone kit to survive in cold temps, if the nest was well made and the doe covered the kit when leaving the nestbox, it could survive. You could also put a warming light over the box (but outside the...

Cold weather can play a part in this. You could try giving her some black oil sunflower seeds (boss) to help condition her cost. They can be fattening so don’t give her much.

The 4-6 weeks period is a critical time because they’re beginning to transition from Mom’s milk to pellets. You might reduce the pellets some and slowly add back. Hay is important right now, to help keep the gut moving, as well as drinking water.

You can get galvanized mesh wire at hardware stores. 16 gauge is typical for the sides, with 1”x 2” squares

Have you checked in his ears for redness? It might just be an ear infection.

I agree that some rabbits are sensitive to their human’s stress. My daughter (@woahlookitsme) had a French lop named Franklin who she had to rehome to another RO member. He became that member’s emotional support bunny because he came to her whenever he sensed she needed emotional support. She...

We rarely took nestboxes in at night during the cold months. We did hang heavy tarps around our cages to keep out any wind, and occasionally put a warming light outside the cage but over the nestbox. A nest lined well with hay and the doe’s fur is a very good insulator for cold temps. I would...